the logo looks ok from a distance. 
The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread
- Thread starter mad murdock
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Looks pretty good. That dealer is up in my neck of the woods, and to my knowledge is still in business.
that's pretty cool.
Man this is some really nice work. Really Hope you run the heck out of this old girl.
getting close to putting the engine back together on the SP70. these are basically clamshell engines, though no plastic is involved. this photo is not my saw, I clipped it from another post on this site. I think it's a Stihl but my question is, do I put red dirko HT around the bearings where I marked in blue on the McCulloch?
Nope, I don't. Crank seals seal the bearings. If you feel bearings fit a little loose use loctite 680 bearing retainer.
I will use a very thin smear of Yamabond 4 there.
thanks for this link to your saw build. it's going to be very helpful. and that's a beautiful saw.
Thanks , its been a very reliable saw , despite some defects in the cylinder.
when installing new rings in a used cylinder I always cross hatch the cylinder walls with a ball hone in order to deglaze the cylinder walls and give the new rings a chance to seat. I have done this on many nikasil plated cylinders (mostly dirt bikes) and a few with steel sleeves.
having done a lot of reading on ball honing hard chrome bores last night I see varying opinions. I believe the McCulloch cylinders to be hard chrome plated so would appreciate any information on this. if the answer is no, do not ball hone then how do you get the rings to seat?
having done a lot of reading on ball honing hard chrome bores last night I see varying opinions. I believe the McCulloch cylinders to be hard chrome plated so would appreciate any information on this. if the answer is no, do not ball hone then how do you get the rings to seat?
Yeah nah put the hone away man. Scotch bright just scrub it up with brake clean or whatever. A real good scrub. Dirt bikes too. I just did piston in the RM probably 2 hours on it now. Scotch bright scrub get it running and let it warm up good but not fouling up plug good just a normal warm up and then run the heck out of it.
Best thing to seat rings is a big load on it. Give it death
Most rebuilds I have to do involve sanding off aluminum transfer and putting a scotch bright pad on it. Im not sure if it would need to be ball honed after all that.
I will tell you that I generally use the highest quality rings I can get and used cylinders take a while to seat with them ( 10 or so tanks run) , they seat whether honed or not is my experience.
I will tell you that I generally use the highest quality rings I can get and used cylinders take a while to seat with them ( 10 or so tanks run) , they seat whether honed or not is my experience.
Wonderfully nice work.
I apply a very thin film of Dirko to the seals. None necessary for the bearings unless the case surfaces show defects from a previously loose bearing.
No ball hone on the Mac chrome for me either. It flakes bad enough all by itself as many will attest. Scotch-Brite Red for a bit of cross-hatch, but go easy there as well if there are any indications of thin spots or weird wear at the intake and exhaust ports.
You should be very proud of your effort!
I apply a very thin film of Dirko to the seals. None necessary for the bearings unless the case surfaces show defects from a previously loose bearing.
No ball hone on the Mac chrome for me either. It flakes bad enough all by itself as many will attest. Scotch-Brite Red for a bit of cross-hatch, but go easy there as well if there are any indications of thin spots or weird wear at the intake and exhaust ports.
You should be very proud of your effort!
somehow, I ended up transferring this build onto the other big Mac thread.
Drove by a local barn today and saw people loading a dumpster. Decided to stop in. Seems the family is cleaning out and will be auctioning off anything of value. I, of course, asked about chainsaws and was directed to this 10-10A. Right Hand start. Spins over and seems to have decent compression. Likely has been sitting for 10+ years. Also had a bow bar and some pretty used up chains.
Is it worth anything? I might go to the auction if it is. Otherwise, I didn't see anything else that tickled me.
Is it worth anything? I might go to the auction if it is. Otherwise, I didn't see anything else that tickled me.
eBay price might be $50, the bow bar could get more than that depending on who's interested.
If you could get them both for under $50 you could possibly come out ahead with a little effort.
Mark
If you could get them both for under $50 you could possibly come out ahead with a little effort.
Mark
Just don't let it go in the dumpster!
See if you can grab it prior to the auction, make them an offer on the spot and cut out the middle man.
See if you can grab it prior to the auction, make them an offer on the spot and cut out the middle man.
fly2mike
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello, I recently started fixing up an old Pro Mac 10-10, and I noticed when I was replacing the fuel line that the paint inside the fuel tank was disintegrating, looked like it was being disolved chemically, like when you use paint remover on old finishes. I took the tank apart and cleaned it as best I could with a small brush and scotch brite pads, then blew it out with air. I replaced the fuel filter, etc,. rebuilt the carburetor and now it runs great, but I noticed the other day the the paint around the fuel fill is failing too. I'm wondering if the cause is ethanol in the gas? I had bought some non ethanol gas, but ran out of it a while back, and I think it got mixed up with some regular gas, so now I need to get some more, but it is getting harder to find around here.
Any other ideas about what can cause the paint to blister like this?
Any other ideas about what can cause the paint to blister like this?
Many (most?) of the old tanks will have paint peeling off. I think it is a combination of the material selection for the tanks, the preparation for the paint, the paint itself, and 40 to 60 years of exposure to various fuels and the enviroment. The later models with the "Pro Mac" yellow seem to be even more susecptable, often coming of in great flakes. If you think the ethanol causes paint to peel, try using some as paint remover and I believe you will find it has little affect.
Mark
Mark
