The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[fly2mike]

OK, great! Thanks. So do most of you guys search out non ethanol gas then? Or do you just use regular gas? I think I read on the carb rebuild kit to not use ethanol gas more than 10% or something like that?
Another question I have is how to adjust the bar oil flow quantity on the Pro Mac 10-10?

 

[heimannm]

I generally use ethanol free fuel for my power equipment and 10% or 15% in my vehicles. I have easily 500,000 miles across a number of different cars and trucks with the ethanol blend and 0 issues. For the stuff that will be setting, and especially for the older saws that were never designed for the ethanol blended fuels I use e free. If I were planning to burn through all of the fuel in a week or two I would not hesitate to use ethanol blended fuels even in my older saws, and in fact I've done that on more than one occasion.

Regarding the adjustment of the automatic oiler on your PM10-10, you have to remove the cover from the oil tank to access the pump and the adjusting screw. There were a few different versions of the automatic pumps over the years but the adjusting screw is always right in the top of the automatic oil pump. This one happens to have a lock nut and the extra tab that was intended to help press the pump more firmly into place, but that screw in the top is the adjustment. CW to reduce flow or CCW to increase flow. I usually adjust a full turn at a time.



The pump on the left below does not utilize a locck nut, and uses that spring clip below it to wedge it into place on the saw.



Mark

 

[fly2mike]

Great! Thanks for the reply. I think my saw is a manual oiler? It has a button plunger for oiling. It seems to supply a lot of oil and the tank is huge.
I was going to ask, and maybe a different thread, what is the difference between all the different Mac 10-10's?

 

[heimannm]

All of the 10-10 saws had the manual oil pump and many had the automatic as well, hence the moniker 10-10 Automatic or 10-10A. If the automatic pump is working and you use the manual in addition for heavy cutting, dirty wood, lots of sap, etc. you will discover the oil tank does not last as long as the fuel.

Volumes could be written on all of the differences, no easy way to explain them all.

Earliest saws were right hand start.

Later saws were left hand start.

The fuel tank design was changed around the time they started calling them Pro and then the PM or Pro Mac models.

The PM10-10 was the first with an electronic ignition.

The 10-10S is 57cc as compared to the standard 54cc and features better porting as well, totally different animals.

Mark

 

[fly2mike]

Wow! Interesting stuff. Thanks for the information!
My saw, a Pro Mac 10-10 I bought at a garage sale for $10.00 (fitting price
It has the left hand start, it wouldn't run so I replaced the fuel line, filters, etc., then it still wouldn't start so I rebuilt the carb, and now it is a total beast! I had to replace the vent cover and retighten the starter cord retract spring, things like that. Starts on the second pull, but seems a little finicky in terms of the idle speed fluctuating a bit. I repaired the fuel cap by making a small retainer of brass and using an old Duck Bill I had laying around
I bought a 20" bar and chain for it, and it goes through Maple like balsa.
I really like the older chainsaws I have an older Homelite Super XL that runs like a top and has a 24" bar on it that I bought at a garage sale for $25.00
I'm trying to resurrect an old Craftsman 2.3/16 that was pretty grungy but I got it all cleaned up and replaced the fuel line, but it still will not start. It feels like I can't even pull the cord without a huge effort? feels like it has good compression, turns freely with the spark plug out. I'm wondering if the reed valve might be glued to the body? This has probably not been run in many years.

 

[fly2mike]

So, if I start my saw with the chain off and it has an (functioning) auto oiler then I guess it should be obvious to see oil coming out the port?
Is there another way to know if it is auto? I've just been pumping oil pretty frequently while sawing, figuring it is manual and not wanting to damage my new chain and bar

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Auto oiling should be very obvious if it is functioning properly. A silver metal tag with numbers on it in the air box/carb area could also help determine if the model is equipped with an auto-oiler.

 

[fly2mike]

Great! thanks, I will try to figure it out. I just didn't want to remove the cover from the oil tank unnecessarily. One thing I don't like about this Mac saw is the fact that you have to remove the cover from the airbox to adjust the carb. I put a tiny dab of blue loctite on the idle speed screw then let it sit overnight hopefully to stop the speed drifting..

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

A wandering idle can often be traced to an air leak randomly affecting the tuning. In the absence of a pressure/vac testing setup, a simple test is to hold the saw in various positions and see if the idle changes appreciably as you do. Another method is to spray brake/carb cleaner in the areas of the saw prone to leaks such as under the flywheel and clutch at the seal locations.

 

[fly2mike]

Thanks for that! Totally makes sense! I'm completely new to 2 stroke engines other than General Motors Detroit Diesel engines I used to work on in boats, but that's a totally different animal!

 

[Jackkanouff]

Hey there everyone, I have a quick question about Mac 10-10 model weights. According to this website, a Pro Mac 10-10 weighs 15.6lbs, but a Pro 10-10a weighs just 11.75lbs. Seems to be the same power head and chains brake. Is this just a typo or where they just lighter for those few years of production. I'm picking up a Pro 10-10A next week. Thanks guys.

- Drew K.

 

[Jackkanouff]

Hey there everyone, I have a quick question about Mac 10-10 model weights. According to this website, a Pro Mac 10-10 weighs 15.6lbs, but a Pro 10-10a weighs just 11.75lbs. Seems to be the same power head and chains brake. Is this just a typo or where they just lighter for those few years of production. I'm picking up a Pro 10-10A next week. Thanks guys.

- Drew K.

Sorry, Acresinternet.com is the website I'm referring to.

 

[mogulmasher]

10-10 varied quite a lot through the years, including in materials used to build them. Early magnesium saws are substantially lighter than later 10-10.

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

Can anyone tell me how many drive links this chain would take with 3/8’s chain? If I remember correctly it had .354 on it & I put another bar on years ago. I would like to put this back on.
Thanks.


The saw is in good shape.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Can anyone tell me how many drive links this chain would take with 3/8’s chain? If I remember correctly it had .354 on it & I put another bar on years ago. I would like to put this back on.
Thanks.
View attachment 1114052View attachment 1114053

The saw is in good shape.
View attachment 1114054

If your putting 354 back on its a smaller chain. I could only find the DL for a 16" bar which was 60dl for 375 and 61 for 354 ,so 1 DL difference.
Homelite 18" bars were 68DL I believe?

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

If your putting 354 back on its a smaller chain. I could only find the DL for a 16" bar which was 60dl for 375 and 61 for 354 ,so 1 DL difference.
Homelite 18" bars were 68DL I believe?

Thank you. I’m going to use .375.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thank you. I’m going to use .375.

So in the 82' Oregon Catalog husqvarna lists a 18" at 68dl , so maybe the mac is 66dl?

 

[heimannm]

63541 is a 16" bar (actual cutting length), DL count will be 60, 59 will work if the chain has a few miles on it...

Mark

 

[Redbarn19]

I recently got an old Mac 10-10 automatic at a yard sale for 15 dollars, had it running in about 5 minutes after getting it home. Is it worth keeping around, or should I try to market it? I've put a new plug in it, but the boot is very loose. I also am looking to find a new brake handle, as this one is aesthetically messed up, but the only ones I am finding are 70+ dollars, and I am not looking to spend that much on a saw I got for 15 dollars. The video is it running right after I got it, all I did was pump the old fuel and dumped some fresh 40:1 in it. Any input would be appreciated!

 

[mogulmasher]

I'd keep it around. 10-10 automatics are not rare so are typically only worth $50-$100 in running condition. Plus they cut good and sound great. I always have one on the shelf to pull out and get my Mac Fix.

The loose boot can be solved by just sticking a pair of needle nose in there and slightly squishing the terminal to slightly oblong it. Should stay on plug terminal better that way. My current 10-10 auto came from a dealer tagged "no spark". I did that to the boot and it has run great ever since.