Thinking about getting a mill,

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komatsuvarna

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but not real sure what I need/want. Whats the difference between the Alaskan small log mill, and the standard (24,30,36,....) Alaskan mills? Will either one do, or not do, anything that the other one will?

Ive got a 395 that I would probably use on the mill. Have 20,28,and 36'' bars for it.

Also, when you run a saw on a mill VS cross cut, how much richer do you run it? The 395 has had some work done on it :D and Its turning around 13,5K. Im thinking I would need to turn it down a some, but how much?

Thanks in advance, and Ill take any other info or advise.
 
but not real sure what I need/want. Whats the difference between the Alaskan small log mill, and the standard (24,30,36,....) Alaskan mills? Will either one do, or not do, anything that the other one will?
Both will mill wood but I would go for an alaskan since the small mill is not recommended for use with bars longer than about 24".

Also, when you run a saw on a mill VS cross cut, how much richer do you run it? The 395 has had some work done on it :D and Its turning around 13,5K. Im thinking I would need to turn it down a some, but how much?

Before worrying about how much to detune it it's important to know how much work you have had done on the saw? Anything more than a muffler mod and a mild woods port significantly increases the chance of meltdown on a milling saw. I would not recommend using a fully ported saw on a mill.
 
Before worrying about how much to detune it it's important to know how much work you have had done on the saw? Anything more than a muffler mod and a mild woods port significantly increases the chance of meltdown on a milling saw. I would not recommend using a fully ported saw on a mill.

Thats it Bob. Dual port muffler and the ports have been widened a little and no base gasket. Has 185psi compression. No pop up piston or milled jug. Its not too wild.
 
Opps! Did I get the itch started on ya from the GTG? Have you looked through the threads to think about saving some money and building it? I wouldn't buy another one myself when they are so easy to build better than you can buy them. Good luck and let me know if you want to get together some time when your ready to start milling.
 
Thats it Bob. Dual port muffler and the ports have been widened a little and no base gasket. Has 185psi compression. No pop up piston or milled jug. Its not too wild.

That should be OK. When you say turning 13.5k is that just past the burbling point or some other tuning spec?
 
Opps! Did I get the itch started on ya from the GTG? Have you looked through the threads to think about saving some money and building it? I wouldn't buy another one myself when they are so easy to build better than you can buy them. Good luck and let me know if you want to get together some time when your ready to start milling.

Yeah, Wanting to build another barn and have about 40 cedar logs that would make some good 6x6s.......and I think If I had one I could find some more use's for it. Ive not made my mind up for sure, still thinking on it. I may get with you If I end up with a mill and you can show me a few things.
 
That should be OK. When you say turning 13.5k is that just past the burbling point or some other tuning spec?

Well, It still burbles. I put my tach on it just to see what it was turning and it was 13,300 to 13,400. I just rounded it off to 13,500 to kinda give a max speed. I think by the book it should be 12,500 if I remember right..?
 
A mini-mill is better suited to making posts than an Alaskan (or actually, I like to cut the first side with an Alaskan and the other 3 sides with a mini-mill).

So I need both:D.

I kinda though that the mini mill would work better for 6x6s, but would a 36 '' alaskan not be better for all around milling? I dont want to be limited to just one thing.
 
but not real sure what I need/want. Whats the difference between the Alaskan small log mill, and the standard (24,30,36,....) Alaskan mills? Will either one do, or not do, anything that the other one will?

Ive got a 395 that I would probably use on the mill. Have 20,28,and 36'' bars for it.

Also, when you run a saw on a mill VS cross cut, how much richer do you run it? The 395 has had some work done on it :D and Its turning around 13,5K. Im thinking I would need to turn it down a some, but how much?

Thanks in advance, and Ill take any other info or advise.

You are on the right track....after you DUMP the husky...and upgrade to Stihl RUNNING saw.

Then all will be well!!

Good luck and keep us posted.

Kevin
 
So I need both:D.

I kinda though that the mini mill would work better for 6x6s, but would a 36 '' alaskan not be better for all around milling? I dont want to be limited to just one thing.
An Alaskan is best suited to making slabs. It is a PITA to set up for rectangular or square timbers with an Alaskan.

A mini-mill is best suited to making timbers. If your main concern is making 6x6's out of small logs, and you can only afford one mill, then go with a mini mill. It's not as accurate -- 1/4"+ dimensional variation is typical -- but it is a snap to mill square corners, something an Alaskan is not good at.
 
An Alaskan is best suited to making slabs. It is a PITA to set up for rectangular or square timbers with an Alaskan.

A mini-mill is best suited to making timbers. If your main concern is making 6x6's out of small logs, and you can only afford one mill, then go with a mini mill. It's not as accurate -- 1/4"+ dimensional variation is typical -- but it is a snap to mill square corners, something an Alaskan is not good at.

I think I see what your saying. You'd have to roll the log and square up every time to make square timbers with an Alaskan?
 
An Alaskan is best suited to making slabs. It is a PITA to set up for rectangular or square timbers with an Alaskan.

A mini-mill is best suited to making timbers. If your main concern is making 6x6's out of small logs, and you can only afford one mill, then go with a mini mill. It's not as accurate -- 1/4"+ dimensional variation is typical -- but it is a snap to mill square corners, something an Alaskan is not good at.

If you were only cutting into say 6x6'' cants would you only use a Mini Mill or would you make the first cut with the alaskan then use the mini mill for the other 3?
 
Back to the saw, whats some of the problems with milling with a woods ported saw? This is a work saw that wears a 28 most of the time and will pull a 36 full comp in bar lenth wood without getting hot. Id hate to burn my saw up trying to mill with it.
 
If you were only cutting into say 6x6'' cants would you only use a Mini Mill or would you make the first cut with the alaskan then use the mini mill for the other 3?
I've had best luck using an Alaskan for the first cut, and then the mini for the other 3 cuts.

The first cut is the most important because it will be used as a base to make the next 2 cuts. If the first cut is crooked, then all the other cuts will end up being crooked, too. Hence I prefer to take the extra setup time for the Alaskan on the first cut.

However, on small logs, I'll sometimes use the mini-for all 4 cuts, and it usually works OK, just be sure to get the guide board level on both ends for that 1st cut.

Another issue is the size of the log. Is it a small log or a top that will only yield one post ? Or is it a bigger log that will yield several slabs in addition to a post ? Or a monster log that will yield several posts ?

Remember that timbers need to be either free-of-heart (FOHC) or else heart-centered. You aren't going to be able to get two good 6x6's out of a 14" log. More likely one 6x6 and some slabs that can be later edged for for 2x framing or 1x siding.
 
A mini-mill is better suited to making posts than an Alaskan (or actually, I like to cut the first side with an Alaskan and the other 3 sides with a mini-mill).

Ditto!

Mtngun,

After I built my mini-mill I tried your method of making the first cut with my Alaskan style mill, then using my mini-mill for the remaining cut's. Works great that way.

jerry-
 

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