Thinking of grabbing cheap 026

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STOVE

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I currently own a single saw. OH THE HORROR! However I am interested in learning more about teardown and the mechanics of saws. I have located an older 026 at a pawn. It will run be not stay running.

Seems like a saw that has a lot of OEM and AM parts available. At $75 I was wondering if it would be a good saw to learn the ins and outs on. My biggest hang up is it isn’t that much different than my current saw. CS-400, with 18” bar. I don’t think it would do much that my current cannot.

I’m guessing the shop won’t let me compression test it. He wouldn’t let. Me take the muffler off and see the piston or cylinder

Would it be a good saw to tear down for a beginner ? Adding basic rubber components and typical tune up items I got to around $70 in a cart on saw salvage.
 
I currently own a single saw. OH THE HORROR! However I am interested in learning more about teardown and the mechanics of saws. I have located an older 026 at a pawn. It will run be not stay running.

Seems like a saw that has a lot of OEM and AM parts available. At $75 I was wondering if it would be a good saw to learn the ins and outs on. My biggest hang up is it isn’t that much different than my current saw. CS-400, with 18” bar. I don’t think it would do much that my current cannot.

I’m guessing the shop won’t let me compression test it. He wouldn’t let. Me take the muffler off and see the piston or cylinder

Would it be a good saw to tear down for a beginner ? Adding basic rubber components and typical tune up items I got to around $70 in a cart on saw salvage.

Post some pictures of it. B/C in good shape? Carb have Hi/Lo? Won't stay running? What does fuel look like?

If he won't let you pull muffler, offer $50-60. Does it feel like it has good compression/won't drop down if you lift by the starter rope?

Even $75 ain't bad if it has decent parts.
 
I currently own a single saw. OH THE HORROR! However I am interested in learning more about teardown and the mechanics of saws. I have located an older 026 at a pawn. It will run be not stay running.

Seems like a saw that has a lot of OEM and AM parts available. At $75 I was wondering if it would be a good saw to learn the ins and outs on. My biggest hang up is it isn’t that much different than my current saw. CS-400, with 18” bar. I don’t think it would do much that my current cannot.

I’m guessing the shop won’t let me compression test it. He wouldn’t let. Me take the muffler off and see the piston or cylinder

Would it be a good saw to tear down for a beginner ? Adding basic rubber components and typical tune up items I got to around $70 in a cart on saw salvage.
I would have to assume it needs more than a tune up! Like Mad said, will it drop under its own weight when holding the cord?
 
Post some pictures of it. B/C in good shape? Carb have Hi/Lo? Won't stay running? What does fuel look like?

If he won't let you pull muffler, offer $50-60. Does it feel like it has good compression/won't drop down if you lift by the starter rope?

Even $75 ain't bad if it has decent parts.

I would have to assume it needs more than a tune up! Like Mad said, will it drop under its own weight when holding the cord?
It will stay up doing the hold the cord test. It has some sun damage for sure. But I don’t really care about cosmetics
 
Post some pictures of it. B/C in good shape? Carb have Hi/Lo? Won't stay running? What does fuel look like?

If he won't let you pull muffler, offer $50-60. Does it feel like it has good compression/won't drop down if you lift by the starter rope?

Even $75 ain't bad if it has decent parts.
I'd offer:
$50 if you can't remove the muffler
$100 if you can remove the muffler and it looks good
$50 - $60 if you remove the muffler and you see damage
And, if you trust the guy, a $25 dollar deposit that you forfeit if you remove the muffler and don't replace it properly.

Keep in mind that the pawnshop probably has $25 to $40 in the saw and that the owner was willing to give it up for that.
 
I'd offer:
$50 if you can't remove the muffler
$100 if you can remove the muffler and it looks good
$50 - $60 if you remove the muffler and you see damage
And, if you trust the guy, a $25 dollar deposit that you forfeit if you remove the muffler and don't replace it properly.

Keep in mind that the pawnshop probably has $25 to $40 in the saw and that the owner was willing to give it up for that.
Sad that it’s a 16 bar so I will find a home for that I think with a coworker.

I know one of these plugs on the top cover is a decomp valve, what is the other ?
 

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Step one is an obvious cleaning. Then I will start my novice inspection for obvious repairs. Here is the list so far. Need to add a spark plug as well.

Any other parts you would add straight away
 

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Sad that it’s a 16 bar so I will find a home for that I think with a coworker.

I know one of these plugs on the top cover is a decomp valve, what is the other ?

16" bar 0.325 chain is the sweet spot for an 026.

In the center is just a plug on the cover if saw does not have decomp. The other one is the screw that holds the cover on.

Don't go buying parts until you examine the saw.
 
Per
Step one is an obvious cleaning. Then I will start my novice inspection for obvious repairs. Here is the list so far. Need to add a spark plug as well.

Any other parts you would add straight away
Personally I would drop that shopping basket- it aint as good as the stuff already on the saw that you don't know if its broke and needs replacing!
Apart from the brake flag I guess- but the one on your list is not Stihl its likely ****** Dink- the old you get what you pay for- but then I doubt they could stuff up a plastic moulding too much.
 
Just got it home, gotta get the little one to bed before I start taking things off and getting the gunk out of this thing. It’s caked behind the covers.

Is dawn soap too harsh even if watered down to put on a toothbrush for degreasing? Air compressor is gonna be tool #1
 
Wash it off with gas or diesel- even better the two mixed together.
Stiff bristle brush to loosen the bulk- compressed air to get more- then repeat until you get to a stage you are happy to work on it.


^^^THIS

Start out scraping off the thick stuff. Some stuff you'll need flathead screwdriver or similar scrapers. Stiff pieces of wire are handy too for smaller spots, used bicycle spokes work well. Brush on the diesel and it will loosen stuff up. A couple good parts brushes and an old toothbrush.

It will stink so your wear grubby clothes and either work outside or over something like a plastic tub/tote. When you've got it pretty clean then move on to dish detergent/water to rinse of the diesel. Be careful not to get any water in the intake or exhaust, and dry it out when finished.
 
16" bar 0.325 chain is the sweet spot for an 026.

In the center is just a plug on the cover if saw does not have decomp. The other one is the screw that holds the cover on.

Don't go buying parts until you examine the saw.
Is it possible to convert it to 3/8 picco? If the current bar is kept what is you favorite Stihl semi chisel ?
 
Is it possible to convert it to 3/8 picco? If the current bar is kept what is you favorite Stihl semi chisel ?
026 is perhaps a bit wasted with 3/8 picco- just fix it, get it going as a bog standard saw with 16-18 inch bar and .325 chain.
Get it going, get used to it and then think about alterations
 
Keep in mind that the pawnshop probably has $25 to $40 in the saw and that the owner was willing to give it up for that.

Quite possibly it was stolen and then sold at the pawn shop. Or someone was desperate, or just didn't know what they had. Plenty of good stuff shows up cheap at pawnshops around here if you keep your eyes open.

I'd give $50-$75 for that saw all day long, for parts if nothing else.
 
The 026 is a Pro saw and it should withstand a lot of abuse before failing. As Bob Hedgecutter writes. Ditch the basket. There will likely be just one or two items you actually need. My best best guess for replacement parts will be a Carbkit (Not a full carb, but membranes and filter), and a fuel-line with fuel filter.
If the fuel cap leaks, it normally just needs a new o-ring. Exhaust usually outlast the saw in general as it is plated. Check brakeband, Clutch and rimsprocket for wear. Theese are consumables and might need replacement if the saw have enough hours on them. The 026 is known for scaling off paint when used and abused. The extend of scaling will give a good indication of how many hours the saw have been through. Also agree that asking to pull the exhaust prior to purchase is improtant and gives an indication of the real value. Might be a good learning for the pawnshop owner too. As i live quite high north - Norway, and our trees are known as pencils, the 026/260 series is popular. A tired scored saw can easy be sold for 150-200 USD. As for larger saws as the 660 its the other way and the go way cheaper than in the US. Good luck fixing the saw. Hope it`s a good one
 
I agree with the guys who say, even 75 bucks for any complete 026 is fine...if what you are looking for is a project and to learn saw repair.

The 026 is an ideal saw to learn repair on.

Now, my three rules.

1. Never buy any parts until the saw is clean and the cylinder off.
2. Never remove the cylinder without pressure/vac testing the case.
3. If you don't want to learn how to do #2, you should put off learning about saw repair until you do.

Roy
 
It will stay up doing the hold the cord test. It has some sun damage for sure. But I don’t really care about cosmetics
It will stay up doing the hold the cord test. It has some sun damage for sure. But I don’t really care about cosmetics

^^^THIS

Start out scraping off the thick stuff. Some stuff you'll need flathead screwdriver or similar scrapers. Stiff pieces of wire are handy too for smaller spots, used bicycle spokes work well. Brush on the diesel and it will loosen stuff up. A couple good parts brushes and an old toothbrush.

It will stink so your wear grubby clothes and either work outside or over something like a plastic tub/tote. When you've got it pretty clean then move on to dish detergent/water to rinse of the diesel. Be careful not to get any water in the intake or exhaust, and dry it out when finished.
When I lived in a city with a street sweeper I would collect the bristles from the sweeper that were left in the gutter. They are the best for reaching small areas, stiff and flat.
 
Popped the muffler off last night and the piston and cylinder looked great. Put fresh red armour 50-1 mix in and got it to fire up.

For the deep clean, should I make a little bolt on cover for the port opening so I can blast it without the muffler on? I’m assuming duct tape won’t stay. Was thinking a little sheet of plastic cutting board, or wood
 

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