This is my favorite cut!

[glov3r]

I learned this from an older WVA logger, I use it most of the time and like the results. I dont use it on hard leaners, or tension wood, and I am in ohio so you probably do things alot different out west. I like the idea of the cut removing the heartwood but it also leaves alot of the hingewood.There are two attachments first is the horizontal notch cut and the heartwood plungecut. B and C show the notch and backcut, and what the top of the stump should look like. This is not to scale and is just a rough sketch but I hope you get the picture. This cut is quick and efficient in the woods also. leave some feedback

 

[lh3]

just seems like more work for the same result...

 

[tree MDS]

I'm sorry but I fail to see the point of that... sort of like re-inventing the wheel or something??? I mean what? you are effectively making a hollow tree as far as the hinge goes?? Clever.

 

[motoroilmccall]

The end result is similar to what a GOL trained fallers stump would look like. The bore the hinge wood out as well... Don't ask me why.

There are better ways to fell trees, but whatever you're comfortable with is what you should use. Notch and drop is the easiest, and IMO the safest since you never work with the tip of the bar.

 

[shokidq]

Looks sorta like a cut for oversize trees where your bar isnt long enough but we put the notch in then bore through the centre

 

[glov3r]

Reply

I'm sorry but I fail to see the point of that... sort of like re-inventing the wheel or something??? I mean what? you are effectively making a hollow tree as far as the hinge goes?? Clever.

The point of this cut is to remove the heartwood eliminating barber chair, and splitting of the saw wood when felled. the cut out of the heartwood is minimal, LEAVING PLENTY OF HINGE! but it still seperates that core of heartwood from the rest of the tree. I dont like the bore cut technique from the sides of the tree so I use this cut, it works for me, but ive used it for a long time. Thanks for the input

 

[tree MDS]

Barber chair is fairly rare in general treework as I see it. Your profile says you do line clearance, do you need that cut very often for that?? Just curious.

 

[glov3r]

Barber chair is fairly rare in general treework as I see it. Your profile says you do line clearance, do you need that cut very often for that?? Just curious.

The company that I work(ed) for has implemented a notch that has a very high angle,(i think around 70 degrees) where you backcut straight on even with your notch. When I first tried this notch with a maple, (rope in top with 1 man pulling when I started the back cut) the tree barber chaired at least 8 feet up. I dont like this new notch, for that simple fact. They say barber chair can be caused by a dull saw, cutting to slow, a lot of water retention , and of course tension and lean. Most of the time with line clearance we remove the top of the tree below the wires before felling, but yes I use this cut often. We also land lot clearing jobs with valuable timber, which cuts do you prefer? I use the basic 45 notch and backcut when applicable, that 70 degree notch works well when you have something leaning one way and want to send it the other way!

 

[GASoline71]

The only time I have ever had to cut out "heartwood" on a stump... is when the tree is bigger than my longest bar 36" can reach from both sides...

Big tree stuff... other than that I'm not sure I see the point in fallin' a tree with anymore than 3 cuts.

Gary

 

[tree MDS]

I just use a regular old notch tailered to whatever I want the tree to do as far as hinge degrees go. I always thought the notch should be a little higher on the back cut, but I've got a buddy I work with sometimes that makes it perfectly level and that works perfect for him. I do it level too alot of the time, and it seems to work nicely. Most importantly I try to keep my hinge perfectly straight all the way across, like a lazer, the only time I change that is when the tree is going down and its real tight and I want to hack off one side or the other to make it go this way or that way. Sorry if I came off like a prick earlier, I didnt realize you are fairly new here. Stick around, it gets addictive - where else can you polish up on your treework without actually having to cut any trees, lol. Good luck man.

 

[clearance]

The only time I have ever had to cut out "heartwood" on a stump... is when the tree is bigger than my longest bar 36" can reach from both sides...

Big tree stuff... other than that I'm not sure I see the point in fallin' a tree with anymore than 3 cuts.

Gary

Yep.

 

[Bigus Termitius]

opcorn:

 

[Nailsbeats]

That cut is called a face bore or boring the face. I seldom use it, but would if I had a very valuable hardwood butt log that I didn't want to take any chances on. It's good to understand it's application as it really relieves unnecessary fiber pull or splitting.

 

[1I'dJak]

I've been using that cut when I trying to wedge over a big top....The wedge is buried and I don't want to make the hinge thinner cuz I if I do it might break and go where it wants to go....its also good if your wedge is buried, she still won't go and you can't fit your bar in to cut more of the holding wood out...

 

[epicklein22]

That cut is called a face bore or boring the face. I seldom use it, but would if I had a very valuable hardwood butt log that I didn't want to take any chances on. It's good to understand it's application as it really relieves unnecessary fiber pull or splitting.

+1, loggers around here use it on every tree to avoid any fiber pull. Every inch counts I guess, especially veneer.

 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

The only time I have ever had to cut out "heartwood" on a stump... is when the tree is bigger than my longest bar 36" can reach from both sides...

Big tree stuff... other than that I'm not sure I see the point in fallin' a tree with anymore than 3 cuts.

Gary

Gary,

First you have to learn how to break in your "saw", then you have to learn how to break in your "chain" and then soak it every night. Those three alone will save you so much money that eventually you can buy a second chain. Waaaay down the road you will have saved sooo much money and your "saw" will have lasted so long (only because of the very careful break in procedure) that you will be able to but a SECOND saw!

Then you will have two saws and two chains and they will all look and run like new! This will give you so much "cred" that you can then be taught the Super Secret 14 Cut PROFESSIONAL Felling Cut!

LOL

.

 

[(WLL)]

The company that I work(ed) for has implemented a notch that has a very high angle,(i think around 70 degrees) where you backcut straight on even with your notch. When I first tried this notch with a maple, (rope in top with 1 man pulling when I started the back cut) the tree barber chaired at least 8 feet up. I dont like this new notch, for that simple fact

:jawdrop: omfg:jawdrop:

 

[GASoline71]

Gary,

First you have to learn how to break in your "saw", then you have to learn how to break in your "chain" and then soak it every night. Those three alone will save you so much money that eventually you can buy a second chain. Waaaay down the road you will have saved sooo much money and your "saw" will have lasted so long (only because of the very careful break in procedure) that you will be able to but a SECOND saw!

Then you will have two saws and two chains and they will all look and run like new! This will give you so much "cred" that you can then be taught the Super Secret 14 Cut PROFESSIONAL Felling Cut!

LOL

.

LMAO...

Gary

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

That cut is called a face bore or boring the face. I seldom use it, but would if I had a very valuable hardwood butt log that I didn't want to take any chances on. It's good to understand it's application as it really relieves unnecessary fiber pull or splitting.

What I was going to say, I know guys who cream stands for select and veneer who must use it to increase bft yeild. Pulled fiber can increase trim on a log and decrease value drastically.

 

[treemandan]

I just saw some lines, some squiggly marks and an explanation how it don't work on leanings trees. I couldn't figure out why you would want to go poking the bar around in the backcut of a hollow tree. What, are you looking for rocks? Looks like by the time you find one your tree would have fallen 90 degrees off.
I stopped reading anything after the squiggly lines but I guess there has to be a good reasin for doing it.