mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
The Bailey's milling chain is semi-chisel, or at least the 3/8" is.
Through The Looking Glass
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irishcountry
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More pics More pics More pics!!! You should get some plans for that and sell em I would love to build something like that someday you could cut some killer table/countertops!!! Very nice setup!!! 
SilverBox
ArboristSite Guru
Seems like with the power you have that you could easily be running a much bigger sprocket, not sure where you would get one, but just by the math, I wouldn't be suprised if you could pull a 30-40 pin with the power you have. Does the chain even slow down when you apply the wood with the 17 pin? Seems like it wouln't
.Just like a chainsaw if I really lean on it the rpms drop and then the Centrifigul clutch cuts out. More chainspeed could be good but, I believe the more chainspeed the more quickly the bar will wear?
Lucas slabbers use some kind of hyperskip tooth arrangement, and fallers around here that run longer than 36 inch bars use full skip. They say that it clears chips better. With my full comp 5 ft bar buried and with factory rakers set the mill does not seem to have a chip clearing problem. I believe the reason is torque?
Lucas slabbers use some kind of hyperskip tooth arrangement, and fallers around here that run longer than 36 inch bars use full skip. They say that it clears chips better. With my full comp 5 ft bar buried and with factory rakers set the mill does not seem to have a chip clearing problem. I believe the reason is torque?
I think you are right and I think the more teeth cutting in the wood the better as long as you have the power to pull them through the cut.
That is one heck of a machine.
I am envious.
You gotta make a video!
Thanks, and will try to do a video as soon as I sort out a better bar oiler. Just purchesed a automotive style fuel pump and plan on hooking it up to pump the veggie oil generously into the ber groove.
The way a tooth is ground or filed is not necessarily related to it's shape. I'm talking about cutter shape.
Full chisel is very fasting cutting and the cutter edge lasts well, especially in your softwoods but the pointed cutter tip means it leaves a finish like on the right.
Semi-chisel has a more rounded cutter profile so it leaves a finish like on the left. This type of cutter is used in harded dirtier wood.
If the wood is cut slowly with full chisel the surface will always end up with a series of indented scratches from the cutter points where as with the semichisel it will be as series of little peaks from cut intersections. The latter is slightly smoother than the former.
The point is moot because a pass through a thicknesser and they both will disappear but if you occasionally want smoother wood without any finishing then semi is better.
Seems like with the power you have that you could easily be running a much bigger sprocket, not sure where you would get one, but just by the math, I wouldn't be suprised if you could pull a 30-40 pin with the power you have. Does the chain even slow down when you apply the wood with the 17 pin? Seems like it wouln't
17 pin at 2500 rpm with 404 gives ~32 mph so you would have to drop the rakers by factor 1.5 to get the same theoretical cutting speed as a conventional saw with 7 pin 3/8 doing 10,000 rpm.
Problem with going to much bigger sprockets is the chain starts to ride up of the bar, maybe a gear box of some kind would be better?
2500 rpm means its probably also nice and quiet?
mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
More or less. I'm pretty sure your Bailey's ripping chain is semi-chisel, round ground. Full chisel can be either round ground or square ground.
mtngun
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's not clear from the pics which end of the bar has the oil holes ? They are most needed near the nose, on the cutting side of the bar.
That would work without too much trouble if you designed for it on the front end. I'd like to see this animal in operation. If its throwing chips like I think it is, chain speed may not be that big an issue.
Here's the bolt through the bar method which if you are going to use a pump is the way to go. If you don't have space for a bolt you might have to make an adapter plate that is part of the bar clamp mechanism.
You can see I added the aux oiler bolt at the bar nose (at the point after the chain has gone around the hose) which is because on a conventional high reving saw a significant amount of oil is lost at the nose so often very little is left to do its business on the cutting side of the bar. You can see this on a high oil delivery saw like the 3120 (up to 54 mL/min) which loses a lot of oil on the nose.
Now you are running a such low RPM that this should not be an issue for you although using a 5 ft bar I would also use an aux oiler on the nose but a drip method is all that is needed there. I use max oil delivery on the 880 (38 mL/min) plus around 20 to 40 mL/min on the nose depending on the length of the bar being used.
One of the things that most drive sprockets do is fling the (dirty) oil off the chain before it collects a new charge at the chain exit point. Most of the oil comes off with the sawdust but the standard drive sprocket being a smaller radius of curvature operating at high RPM is also very effective in flinging the dirty oil off the inner parts of the chain but you have neither of those so it will be interesting to see how it goes. My initial guess is because of your overall large sprocket / low RPM operation you wont need much oil if you cut clean wood but if the wood gets dirty I would up the flow rate. However, maybe you do need more oil as looking at this picture there is a fair bit of bar wear there - was this run without oil?
And looking at your chain it is semichisel.
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Nope definitely not excessive, you can see the groove already cut into your bar.
Anyway- you can always turn it off at one end. But it will be mighty annoying if a piece of wood turns out to be much harder than you think and you have to stop and make an auxiliary oiler.
Thanks Bobl, thats what I will do. I think I can use brake lines to distribute the oil to both bar tips. My specific reason for using veggie oil is because my tree service re-sells our chipped up trees as mulch. With the mill making so much sawdust I hope to just shovel that into the mix. Thanks Treecycle
gr8scott72
Addicted to ArboristSite
We still want to see some pictures of the whole machine. You've described it but I'd still love to see the bigger picture.
Good stuff btw.
Good stuff btw.
