Unfortunately, the P.O. is deceased and dead men tell no tales! The saw was donated to our trail club by his widow.Once you have, come back here with a full back story on it mate. Where you got it, why you got it, when the troubles started, what the previous owner said etc.
On deck next round before I remove it from the saw.From there - start pressure testing it, both metering side and pump side.
How do you check this and come up with numbers? The only test that I have ever seen is with a piece of hose and blow/suck on the "H" circuit and listen for the check valve to click each way. Since these are FRP I wouldn't expect them to seal completely when closed whereas some of the old rubber discs might.Test the main nozzle check valve holds or drops no quicker than 7 psi over 5 seconds.
Done and verified.Confirm lever height is set and the seals for the needles if present are in good order.
Any reason why not?It has not been thorough the sonic tank.
Best theory yetI got a chance to run it again this afternoon and run the "Brake Cleaner" manifold test. The idle did slow down when I accidentally hit the throttle shaft but t hen it is not really sealed and will leak a little bit.
I am letting the bar oil drip off before I remove the carb for more diagnosis of it directly.
Here is one current theory... The main nozzle check valve is stuck mostly closed. This is creating an air leak at idle which requires an increased "L" setting to compensate for. Because it is stuck it is also not opening enough to run correctly at WOT. This may be why it is lean at WOT and not sensitive to the "H" screw.
Your thoughts? Please be gentle!
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