Tips and advice for a felling worm...

[ms290]

Burvol let me see if i got this correct.

Before i fall the tree take a good look and walk around. look for potential hazards like widow makers and and holes i might trip in when backing off from the tree.

When falling said tree watch the mid and upper sections to see whats going on. Wedge it to keep from getting stuck and having it fall back in the wrong direction.

 

[Turkeyslayer]

You should always walk around at least three sides (I know a tree is round) of a given tree looking up to determine lean, hazards (widowmakers,entanglement in other trees, power lines, dead limbs in the fall zone, etc), weight of the top, and wind direction. Clear out your escape paths good, and get a mental picture of said paths. When cutting the back cut I will alternate looking at the top section of the tree, the kerf of the backcut, and the gunning sites on the saw, making sure I am in lining up my hinge for the fall direction. If possible (determined by the size of the tree) I will put a wedge in the backcut, not driving it in but tapping it in lightly. When the tree starts to tip I will look up while retreating to a safe distance. Be aware that branches can be thrown back at you by not only the tree you are falling, but surounding trees that may be hit by the falling tree. Also when the tree is on the ground take a good look above you before moving into look at the downed tree. Many times there are residual branches broke off and hanging above.

Stay safe

 

[ms290]

You should always walk around at least three sides (I know a tree is round) of a given tree looking up to determine lean, hazards (widowmakers,entanglement in other trees, power lines, dead limbs in the fall zone, etc), weight of the top, and wind direction. Clear out your escape paths good, and get a mental picture of said paths. When cutting the back cut I will alternate looking at the top section of the tree, the kerf of the backcut, and the gunning sites on the saw, making sure I am in lining up my hinge for the fall direction. If possible (determined by the size of the tree) I will put a wedge in the backcut, not driving it in but tapping it in lightly. When the tree starts to tip I will look up while retreating to a safe distance. Be aware that branches can be thrown back at you by not only the tree you are falling, but surounding trees that may be hit by the falling tree. Also when the tree is on the ground take a good look above you before moving into look at the downed tree. Many times there are residual branches broke off and hanging above.

Stay safe

Good to know. Rep sent

 

[Gologit]

You've been given some good advice but I'll add something to it. All the techniques and tips you've been given are workable. For the most part if you follow the advice given you so far you should be able to get started.

I told you in my earlier post that reading Dent's book would help you...and it will. BUT...the trees don't read the book. The book is just a starting place and a reference guide. The only way to learn to fall is to actually do the work. Don't ever assume that just because you do "A" the tree will do "B". You can fall 100 trees with no problem and the 101st will humble you for days afterward. Trust your advice, and as you gain experience and skill you'll begin to trust yourself. Just don't ever, ever, trust the trees.

Every faller makes mistakes. That includes me and everybody I've ever worked with. If there's a mistake than can be made in the woods you'll probably make it eventually. The good fallers know how to keep mistakes from turning into disasters. That comes with time.

 

[Dayto]

And never assume a tree is say after its down in the lay , LOADED limbs have killed and hurt many fallers while limbing .

 

[ms290]

And never assume a tree is say after its down in the lay , LOADED limbs have killed and hurt many fallers while limbing .

thats no lie. Ive had sore shins more than once because of them loaded limbs

 

[056kid]

Wait till one slings you a couple yards

 

[discounthunter]

just curious,are you a lefty?


not pickin on you but just looking at you make that cut made my back hurt.

not sure if it will help,but with the saw off practice getting the feel of holding the saw both right hand then left hand on the trigger.

 

[slowp]

I can comment on bucking. If you plan to do a lot of it, and limbing, get a longer bar. You can stand farther back at those times when something is apt to pop up. Don't lean over the tree when doing your final cut. And look for pivot points. Sometimes when you buck through a tree, it releases it and it is apt to swing around if it is on a rock, stump, or some other kind of fulcrum.

Take time to think about where to safely stand when bucking. It is worth it.
Sometimes, you'll want to clear a spot to "fall back to" on a tricky tree. I think you have flat ground, but try to buck from the uphill side if on a hill

The Douglas Dent book has a chapter on bucking logs too.

 

[ms290]

just curious,are you a lefty?


not pickin on you but just looking at you make that cut made my back hurt.

not sure if it will help,but with the saw off practice getting the feel of holding the saw both right hand then left hand on the trigger.

No im right hand dominant. to be more accurate though i am ambidextrous. When running a saw i can do it both ways no problem. Feels weird with the left hand throttling though.

 

[joesawer]

No im right hand dominant. to be more accurate though i am ambidextrous. When running a saw i can do it both ways no problem. Feels weird with the left hand throttling though.

Kick back should always be a concern and and avoided.
But be aware that when running the saw left handed it tends to put your body more in the path of kick back and use extra care.

 

[ms290]

note taken...

 

[hammerlogging]

Wait till one slings you a couple yards

off today, falling partner broke down.
16 and unemployed? high school?

yeah. when you come to, you can shut off your saw. In about 15 minutes you can laught it off, right? educational opportunity. almost as good as the "national geographic moments". Life of a faller. intrigue, mystery, excitement.

I'm diffferent about escapes than these guys say. That butt pops up off the ground or slides back off the stump, you don't want to be close. As a guideline, 45 degrees back from intended fall, adapted for special circumstances like dead limbs, leaners, other circumstances. I myself am out of there once the tree is committed, atleast 2-3 big strides out of there then turn and look up, preferably from behind a tree, preferably your next tree, preferably already slamming the face in it....... you should have already identifed the most likely hazards to come at you.

I'll stick around more or take the easy out method as others mention but not in a highly selctive falling situation where I find more bad things can happen. Your safety is up to YOU.

get clear.

 

[joesawer]

Every tree is different and escapes are different. You can not feasibly back peddle away from every tree while keeping your eyes fixed on the top. Look up look around, be aware of your surroundings "see" your escape route and remember Death From Above! but you have to keep your feet under you .
I have run into another tree and been stuck as the tree fell.

 

[gwiley]

Jeff Jepson's book "To Fall a Tree" is a great read, short and concise but covers pretty much everything related to tree falling.

The first step to falling a tree is to clear both the lay and an escape path - the saw doesn't touch the tree until then. You clear the lay do avoid spring poles - little trees that get snagged by the big one on the way down that then spring when the trunk rolls off them or when they are cut during limbing. Last year my Dad got hit in the head by a spring pole (2" cedar) - knocked out his front tooth and cracked some others, broke part of his jaw.

Studies have shown that most deaths during tree falling occur within 10 feet of the stump. If the canopy of a tree gets hung on its way down it can get pushed back and the butt can jump in any direction - you clear an escape path so that you don't need to think or dodge on your way out - you can focus your eyes on the tree while your body moves.

I prefer an open face notch because it keeps the hinge in tact longer thus giving move control of the tree for more of the time during the fall. Once your hinge breaks you must rely on gravity alone to direct the tree. A shallow notch will cause the hinge to break once the notch closes - small diameter trees can even be held on the stump if the hinge doesnt break when the notch closes - which creates a dangerous situation.

 

[bitzer]

I didn't mean back peddling to be a catch all for what to do off of a stump, but it seems I may have represented it that way. I cut a lot of dead trees and I've got to keep an eye out for tops and branches coming back at me. I generally give myself several good strides back with my eyes on the tree as it starts to tip, but I will peddle after that if I can or have too. Sometimes all I have to do is back peddle. If I can duck in behind another tree or if I know I'm going to have to bust ass to get out of there I will. It just goes on a tree by tree basis. There is no catch all. Its about being aware of your surroundings and looking the tree over and nearby trees and the possible scenarios that could happen. Common sense. Bad things happen very quickly and for no seemingly no reason sometimes.

I don't know if anyone said anything about spring poles, but you can take a little tension out of them by making several cuts in succession halfway or less through, before you cut them off. A longer bar also helps. Damn spring poles will toss your bar right into your leg if you are not careful.

 

[ms290]

I didn't mean back peddling to be a catch all for what to do off of a stump, but it seems I may have represented it that way. I cut a lot of dead trees and I've got to keep an eye out for tops and branches coming back at me. I generally give myself several good strides back with my eyes on the tree as it starts to tip, but I will peddle after that if I can or have too. Sometimes all I have to do is back peddle. If I can duck in behind another tree or if I know I'm going to have to bust ass to get out of there I will. It just goes on a tree by tree basis. There is no catch all. Its about being aware of your surroundings and looking the tree over and nearby trees and the possible scenarios that could happen. Common sense. Bad things happen very quickly and for no seemingly no reason sometimes.

I don't know if anyone said anything about spring poles, but you can take a little tension out of them by making several cuts in succession halfway or less through, before you cut them off. A longer bar also helps. Damn spring poles will toss your bar right into your leg if you are not careful.

whats a spring pole?

 

[Metals406]

whats a spring pole?

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/sections/directives/log_springpoles_cpl2122.html

 

[Metals406]

http://www.forestapps.com/tips/springpole/springpole.htm

 

[ms290]

thanks guys. That helps a good bit.:yourock::yourock::yourock::yourock: