took some scrap to the junk yard..made 10 dollars and then came home with this...

[H-Ranch]

No doubt the manual wrapping of the rope can be a pain. If I use mine regularly it will start on the first or second pull. If it sits for months then... well, you don't need to worry about finding a project for time-killin' but the beer-sippin' might be needed by the time you get it started. I actually just scored a brand new recoil at a barn sale that I've been thinking about adapting to it that would make it much nicer to pull.

I'm all about getting it going on the cheap and if you can get it rebuilt with minimal parts/effort then it's a win. There's also some satisfaction in getting old iron to work. Otherwise hit the easy button and get the new engine as you've already said.

 

[zogger]

Very nice find!

 

[WoodTick007]

you're lucky, my scrapyard won't let us take anything out of the pile, even to pay for it.

One time I saw a whole bundle of quarter inch 2x2 tubing, brand new still in the banding.....waiting to be shredded.

I don't know what kinda scrap yard you go to. . . but the ones around here will sell you anything they have for the going retail scrap metal price. If it their and they paid 10 cents a pound for mixed metal it would be sold for 20-30 cents a lb. Hell they even offered to deliver if the purchase was enough $.

 

[Marshy]

If it threw a rod then it's likely that the crank needs work too, at least grinding, likely bent and needs replacing.

 

[olyman]

No doubt the manual wrapping of the rope can be a pain. If I use mine regularly it will start on the first or second pull. If it sits for months then... well, you don't need to worry about finding a project for time-killin' but the beer-sippin' might be needed by the time you get it started. I actually just scored a brand new recoil at a barn sale that I've been thinking about adapting to it that would make it much nicer to pull.

I'm all about getting it going on the cheap and if you can get it rebuilt with minimal parts/effort then it's a win. There's also some satisfaction in getting old iron to work. Otherwise hit the easy button and get the new engine as you've already said.

IFFFF you can find the parts,,they will be high dollar...parts aint been made for that model for years.......and as the men have said, send it down the road,,aint worth the time and trouble youd stick into it...get the chicom. money ahead.......

 

[Guswhit]

I salvaged one that looked almost identical to that, it was a 12h.p. Wisconsin, already had the electric start hook up on it. Finally, after all the upgrades I did to my splitter it just didn't have the power to turn the pump I needed. As I remember it took me about a month to get a carb rebuild kit for it 15 years ago and I think it was darn expensive then. Good luck what ever you decide!

 

[torence 20]

Ya ill just put something else on it I've got a 10 hp Kohler that will do the trick I just would have liked to known what rpm this ran at idk what kind of pump it is or how fast it should turn

 

[olympyk_999]

http://www.pittauto.com/default.asp...ustomer/piauel/customerpages/pl_wisconsin.htm

wisconsin still makes some of the popular engines...same as they were originally just upgraded ignition systems...
pitt auto can get everything unless its obsolete... they were very helpful with one of my two cylinder wisconsins figuring out generator/distributor/starter manufactures and part numbers as wisconsin only makes the "long block" and out source the external systems (ignition, carb, etc.)

 

[Rookie1]

It looks like an old Briggs to me. I have one on the shelf at work but the block isn't drilled and tapped for a pump coupler.

 

[rarefish383]

I had an electric start 12 hp Kohler on my old home made splitter. It ran OK, meaning it would start and run. But not like the one on my John Deere 212. One day I got mad and stuck a new 6.5 hp HF motor on it. It has a 16 GPM two stage pump and that little 6.5 ran it better than the old 12. For the $79 I paid for the 6.5 I can't say enough good stuff about it, Joe.

 

[sawjunky23]

I have yet to hear anybody say anything bad about the predator engines.

I was talking to a sales rep a while back and he gave me a good break down of how producion works in China. Basicaly a company can get whatever kind of quality control they are willing to pay for.

So if company A pays China manufacturing company to build some stuff for him and is fussy about qaulity control, they will build it to his specifications and the product can be top notch. They will run production on his product during the "dayshift" so to speak. Then when "night" shift comes in, they pump out their product using the original manufacturing co's specs only the quality control can vary greatly as the "original customer" is not reponsible for quality control.

Kinda long winded but I have been told that the Predator Engines are Honda clones. I wouldn't be suprised if they use some of the same parts to build them. China has way diffrent views on copyrights than we do here.

 

[torence 20]

im going to get some more pics of the pump tom. and clean it up a bit and try to find out how many ponies i need to make this thing work at its best

 

[Whitespider]

I have two Chinese "clone" engines... the 110cc on the boy's little ATV, and a 13 HP on my Harbor Freight generator. Both have been dead solid performers... pop right off and run strong. I put different spark plugs in 'em on day one, and change the oil regular... other than that, nothin'. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to buy one of those Harbor Freight knock-offs if I needed a replacement for something.
*

 

[CTYank]

Does it look like this? It is a Wisconsin but I don't know the model/details on it. I can get a photo of the tag later today if you're interested.View attachment 448128 View attachment 448129

Might want to look at the pulley alignment there- pretty far from coplanar. Hell on belts.

 

[H-Ranch]

Might want to look at the pulley alignment there- pretty far from coplanar. Hell on belts.

Yeah, belts don't last like they used to. It's only been 40+ years on these and I'm not 100% sure that they will make another 40.

 

[unclemoustache]

Nice - looks high enough so you don't have to bend over. However, it looks like the bars underneath will be spanking your shins every time you want to get close.

 

[dwiles]

That looks like a wisconsin AEN or AENL 9 hp engine. These engines were made from about 1945-1970 ish. They are great engines that made alot of torque, great for wood splitters. Heavy duty all cast iron block, but new replacement parts are non existence, although parts how up on ebay regularly. I have one on a splitter that was made back in the 60's, but the rings and crank bearing are shot. It runs but knocks like crazy and smokes like a freight train. Hopes this helps.

 

[olympyk_999]

That looks like a wisconsin AEN or AENL 9 hp engine. These engines were made from about 1945-1970 ish. They are great engines that made alot of torque, great for wood splitters. Heavy duty all cast iron block, but new replacement parts are non existence, although parts how up on ebay regularly. I have one on a splitter that was made back in the 60's, but the rings and crank bearing are shot. It runs but knocks like crazy and smokes like a freight train. Hopes this helps.

aenl's are STILL being made... and so are the parts...crank bearings should be able to get anywhere, as they're just tapered roller bearings, but i put a link up above for the Wisconsin dealer i use Pitt Auto (pittauto.com) out of PA...they can get any part for them as long as it isnt obsolete...

 

[rancher2]

In the good old days you could buy a lot of good stuff or new metal drops from metal fab shops from the scrap yard. No more. Nothing is for sale and the one yard won't take any thing with tires on it.

 

[torence 20]

uncle the i beam is offset to one side so there is no shin busting beam in the way on the other side you walk rite up to it. wich i may change due to the fact that running the lever with my left hand feels un natural to me but maybe it will be ok idk... and upon a little further inspection the connecting rod is not broken its just fine. the knock noise is coming from the magneto i took the cover off and there is a little pin that goes through a "cam lobe" that then opens and closes a set of points and it looks like it hangs up then after enough tension is built on it a very loud "snap" then the points open and close and around it goes again until the next revolution at the exact same spot does it again. and there is no spark... i have zero experience with a mag. if anyone want to give me a little lesson on how they work and what to check im all ears