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Hi Will

Will, they are the kind of tools that you set up on a stand or bench and set up a motor behind or below them.I will try and post some pics a little later.
Thanks
Lawrence
 
I could not help myself when I came across a huge garage sale in the neighborhood the other day.Whenever I drove by this particular house I would say to my wife "if that place ever has a garage sale I'm going there".Well sadly the fella that lived there passed away suddenly,I hope he is resting peacefully.So they had a garage sale that was not advertised and I happend to be driving by there the other day and checked it out.I bought a Rockwell wood lathe and a Rockwell Beaver wood jointer for $95.00 both in good shape.They need motors as the are bench top tools that have the pulleys on them but I need to have some kind of motor set up for them.I posted this in the Wood Turning Forum as well.Any ideas would be appreciated as to the right motors etc.
Thanks
Lawrence

You got some really good woodworking tools there, there was a time when Rockwell was the top of the line IMO.

The motors depend on a few things...speed and current. Are you planning to run them on 110 or 220? How much HP will the tool need? How fast will the motor need to run. Final drive speed of the cutter head will be determined by pulley size, so you have to do a bit of figuring here.

I look on the internet to school up on nearly everything I need to know more about. That's how I found AS, and got the CAD...
 
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New to me tool, $2 today at a community yard sale.:biggrinbounce2:
Will try it out later:biggrinbounce2:
 
Well THAT'S a fair upgrade from the little one you had like the one you sent me, eh? Nice score! (PS - is it just me or do those little ones take FOREVER to come up to reading the proper RPM? They seem accurate enough if given sufficient time though.)

Today I got a little box full of four or five small pullers and parts, a decent old snatch block/pulley, and two Efco clamp-on-the-bar saw filing guides all for $20. They're fairly old but in good shape, and all metal too, which is much better than the cheapo plastic parts that Oregon has gone to using on their guides. My two-year-old Oregon guide is already getting worn out and inaccurate, and I rarely use it.
 
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Nice find bigbadbob !

I have brought back car batteries that would not take a charge by giving them a jolt of reverse polarity (not recommended or for the faint of heart) .

:cheers:

Also not to be done in a poorly-ventilated area. That can work sometimes because it can dissolve solids that have built up on the electrodes inside the battery which cause poor conduction; too much too fast can have bad results though. Sometimes a quick hit of 24V on a 12V battery can breathe a bit of life back into it too.
 
I need to get a tach, they just seem too dang high, or maybe it's that I'm poor. What is a good brand that works well enough?
 
You ever seen or been near a car battery exploding? I have! Don't mess around.

That's the truth...bad stuff. I saw one explode at the end of my arms once. All I was doing was hooking it up. It scared me worse than anything else, it took several years off my life. Battery acid was everywhere, thank God I had a pair of sunglasses on.
 
Batteries can be dangerous. We learned that the hard way back in high school in auto shop. It was the dead of winter single digit temps and one of my buddies brought his battery in the shop to charge it. Well its a good thing no one was near it 5 min after it got hooked up cause it went off like a bomb. Moral of the story? Frozen batteries can be a problem
 
Well no one has even come close to the method I used so I will wait a while longer and get some run time in on both drills+batteries to make sure they stand up to the test.
Pioneerguy600
 
On the subject of lead acid batteries in vehicles it is not a good idea to arc weld near them while they are connected to the vehicle being welded on. Don`t ask how I know.
Pioneerguy600
 
Battery refurb

Back in 1972 i started "colidge" to get smart..
electronics was my thing.
thats where i learned to "zap a cap" ..
the procc is simple,take a big capacitor,charge it up and put it to the battery.. batteries accumilate what is called "fuzz" between parts and this blows the "fuzz" off.. letting the battery recharge full again..
i know,simple explination ,,but it will do for now..
wire the cap to anything that will charge it for a couple of seconds,put some wire on batery terminals,small rechargables use your imagination,rubber bands ? .. set battery in shed and run wires out thru shut door and connect to cap..
has to ba a polarized DC cap,most any value,bigger the better..
DO NOT USE ON LI-ION !!
have been doing this for 38 years and not one mishap yet..lots of batteries saved and some lost..
this is the cap i use..

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Hey Jerry, I am bumping this hoping someone knows what you did or perhaps you are ready to spill the beans

We did not get a lot of guesses or anyone coming close to the," secret", I would of thought that some of the real brainy guy`s on here would have many ways of reworking these batteries. I used the drills today and after 3 hrs of running screws neither battery has been run down to where it won`t turn the drill so far, so by tomorrow after work I will know how long they will run the drill. I was speaking with a electrical engineer friend of mine today and not even he had any idea of what I could have done without expensive equipment to ressurect the batteries. Must just be a fluke that I thought of it. LOL
Pioneerguy600
 
Nothing to do with batteries, but here is how you have some fun with electricity. Take a condenser form a points ignition system, put the lead of it to a ignition wire on your car, ground the case of the condenser, start your car let it run for 10s, shut off the car, unhook the condenser, be careful not to touch the lead and the case at the same time, now throw it at someone and say hey catch!! The look on their face is just priceless when they get hit with 20kv.
 

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