Tool Forum

[DSS]

Have you tried some of that CLR stuff for hard water? Or vinegar will dissolve a lot of things.

 

[Philbert]

Have you tried some of that CLR stuff for hard water? Or vinegar will dissolve a lot of things.

Tried vinegar with nor noticeable results. Will take a look at the CLR bottle.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Philbert

 

[parrisw]

Not really a tool question, but you are the guys that would know (well, the northern guys anyway).

The carpet in my car has a thick build up of salt on the driver's side. Hard lumps of it that seem resistant to water, carpet cleaner, etc. I tried wetting and scraping some of it off.

Anything that will dissolve this easily without dissolving the carpet? Or should I just keep wetting it and scrubbing?

Thanks.

Philbert

Hedge trimmer!

 

[joe25DA]

Couple more tools

I got these today. Older craftsman hatchet, Lakeside ax and a DUMORE hand grinder withe the cord missing. Im Hoping to put a cord on it and see if it works. The ax and hatchet are in great shape.

 

[Metals406]

I got these today. Older craftsman hatchet, Lakeside ax and a DUMORE hand grinder withe the cord missing. Im Hoping to put a cord on it and see if it works. The ax and hatchet are in great shape.

I'm going to petition the mods to change your user name to "The Tool King"!!

 

[WesternSaw]

Joe and Nate

Great finds as usual Joe! Nate great one liner comment LOL!
Lawrence

 

[joe25DA]

Thanks pete and nate. I am hoping all it needs is a new line cord. Gonna crimp one on during my break and see what happens. I pulled the DUMORE from the scrap pile along with a few big old electric motors.

 

[WesternSaw]

Please Read This Fellas !

I'm really happy how this thread has been doing.All the great contributors posting information and pictures.Moderator (Trimmed ) has suggested that he could move the Thread into the Stickies Portion at the top of the of the Chainsaw Forum Page where he thinks it coud get more attention,I'm inclined to give it a shot.What do you guy's think?
Thanks
Lawrence

 

[joe25DA]

I'm really happy how this thread has been doing.All the great contributors posting information and pictures.Moderator (Trimmed ) has suggested that he could move the Thread into the Stickies Portion at the top of the of the Chainsaw Forum Page where he thinks it coud get more attention,I'm inclined to give it a shot.What do you guy's think?
Thanks
Lawrence

Do it. Tools and saws go hand in hand, This is one of my favorite threads and I think there are a lot of guys who may not see it.

 

[promac850]

Speaking of tools, I got a few I need to post soon... picked them up at a garage sale and a flea market.

Yep. Gonna have to post some pics so you guys can fight over who gets on the will as the next owner of these... :greenchainsaw:

 

[Brmorgan]

I say go for it. Especially considering that you/we originally wanted this to be a whole new forum section; I see Sticky status as a step in that direction at least.

PS - Lawrence, check your email.

 

[WesternSaw]

Moving

Well fellas I will let Trimmed know that we think it would be a good move to place this in the Chainsaw Forum under Stickies then.

So please take notice that this thread is about to be moved and where it's being moved to.
I will contact Trimmed today
Lawrence

 

[trimmmed]

moved! and all you guys get an attaboy for a great thread.

 

[trimmmed]

Have you tried some of that CLR stuff for hard water? Or vinegar will dissolve a lot of things.

Aye! Just saoke my showerhead in that stuff, then reamed the holes with a pin and WOW! I'm happy with the results.

 

[WesternSaw]

We moved

WOW! Fellas that has to be the easiest move of my life.I mean I didn't have to rent a truck or pay guy's with dinner and a beer and no sore back, LOL!
So I hope all you guy's are up to speed on the move and look forward to more great post's from you fellas that made this a great thread and also to any fellas that would like to join us,
Thanks also goes to Trimmed for moving us over here so we can get more exposure!
Lawrence

 

[WesternSaw]

Portable Table Saw

Guy's I have been saving up every penny I have to get a portable table saw.My mind is pretty much made up on which one to buy,the Bosch with the gravity rise stand,I think it's the 4800.Anyway someone has suggested that I look at contractor saws,the ones that are belt drive and have a cast iron table top as opposed to an aluminium table top.I don;'t know enough about table saws to go out and buy a used cabinet saw and can't afford a new one so my choices are new portable table saw or decent priced contractors saw that's a good machine.Any and all responses would be welcomed.
Thanks
Lawrence

 

[DSS]

Guy's I have been saving up every penny I have to get a portable table saw.My mind is pretty much made up on which one to buy,the Bosch with the gravity rise stand,I think it's the 4800.Anyway someone has suggested that I look at contractor saws,the ones that are belt drive and have a cast iron table top as opposed to an aluminium table top.I don;'t know enough about table saws to go out and buy a used cabinet saw and can't afford a new one so my choices are new portable table saw or decent priced contractors saw that's a good machine.Any and all responses would be welcomed.
Thanks
Lawrence

Anything belt drive is better than one of those direct drive saws with a universal motor. Much less vibration for one. Cast iron is also better than aluminum.

Grizzly brand saws have a very good reputation and are very reasonably priced, if you can find either a new or used one.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Lawrence,..I have 5 professional table saws that I use for my line of work. Each has its own set of advantages and run from very heavy cast iron shop saws to fairly light portable saws. The 12" 230v 5hp National weighs close to 300 lbs, steady as a rock and no vibration, accurate to within 1/64" and great for precision cuts as in cabinet work but a bear to move to a jobsite. A 10" cast iron General with a Bisemeyer rip fence, 230v 3hp also a very accurate cabinet quality saw but much too heavy to be portable, it has extensions on both sides and will easily handle a full sheet of 3/4" oak ply on either side of the blade. A direct drive Craftsman with a cast iron top and steel stand that can be moved by one person if you can lift and maneuver a 175 lb saw. Its very steady and quite accurate, I have built many sets of cabinets with it on site. The Ryobi BT 3000 is my most used saw, easily portable, motor mounted directly underneath, runs smooth and has a set of rails that adjust out to either side of the blade to allow for 24" rips either side of the blade. The Dewalt DW744R is a fully portable saw with an accurate rip guide setup that has an easy front mounted vernier adjustment for positioning the fence, it runs fairly smooth for a light saw,aluminum top and accurate enough for most users. I use it as a trim out saw mostly ripping 3/4 MDF for furring around windows and doors plus any other ripping jobs associated with trim work.

 

[Philbert]

Quick Tip For Air Hoses

I thought of posting this the other night, as we had a big run of pneumatic tool comments on this thread.

I don't have a big compressor, but it usually lives in my basement. And when I do really dirty stuff, I like to do it outside, so I run an air hose up the stairs and out the door. To keep it from getting pinched or damaged, I take a 10 " piece of scrap rubber hose (garden, heater, washing machine, whatever) with an ID slightly larger than the OD of my air hose, slit it down the side, and make a protective sleeve for just that part of the hose that meets the door.

I made one for each air hose. They slide along the hose to wherever they are needed. They are cheap, easy, and dirt simple, but effective.

Philbert

 

[promac850]

Oh, I also pulled an entire Square D NEMA Type 1 contactor box, 8735? or something like that. It can run 230, but my compressor receives exactly 240 at the switch.

Also, it's a three pole design, and has the reset box that mounts under the main box, and the reversing box that mounts to the right of the main box.

Anyone know how to wire one of these up to a compressor motor, mine is three wire, one black (or red, don't remember which color as of now) and one white, and one solid copper ground.

The wire running from the breaker box to the compressor switch is 10/2.

I also noticed that the main starter box has 110/120 capability... I was thinking for extra cooling of the compressor pump and electric motor, and of the hopefully soon to be added aftercooler, I would use an old furnace blower, running on 120. Can I wire that into the box, or is the 20 amp breaker gonna trip trying to start up both the compressor and the cooling blower at the same time?

Yes, I am preforming mods to make this 'cheap POS' compressor beat the hell out of nearly any 700 dollar new compressor you could ever buy. The air should be very dry, very cool, and the compressor should be real cool even after running constantly to keep up with a spray gun or the like.

Oh, I am also going to pull the air tanks off of the same press that I took the starter boxes out of. Each tank looks to be about 10, maybe 15 or 20 gallon. They both have lots of oil in them from the Showa oiler that kept things lubed up in that press. So... bet there is no rust to speak of inside of those tanks. I plan on adding them to the farther ends of the lines to increase capacity to the system as a whole, and install quick connects so that I can use them only when I need to. (yes, the boss said I could salvage what I want... gotta punch out to do so though. I'm fine with that. It's still a hell of a lot cheaper than buying these parts new or even used)

No, the oiler is still there at work, in case they need it for a press they happen to buy at a later date.

Wow, quite some rambling there.

P.S. Sorry, no pics of tools... got home from work, ate supper, then went to college. :bang: Forgot all about it. Going to do the same tomorrow. Work, eat, school. <--- Man, I hate that word... :msp_thumbdn: