Top down fire

[coog]

I usually leave the bottom ash door cracked on the Federal Airtight until I can hear the flames roar a little, indicating that the draft is established. Then I close it tight. You might want to try my modified approach with some small kindling and cardboard atop the paper. Big logs must remain on bottom, however, which is very convenient.

I do the same thing, but it takes more than one attempt before I can leave it be.I should mention that it always seems harder to start a fire in a stove that has no ash bed, so maybe it will get easier as we go along.

 

[Zodiac45]

I've been using it too light my old Glenwood C cookstove and it works quite well. I do leave the side door cracked (that has air adjuster slats) where you clean the ash out, but I did that anyway with the old method. It just seems too catch and within 5 minutes I've got a good ripping blaze going. Great for those short cook your breakfast fires and take the chill off.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Coog, heating 30 feet of flue compared to half that height of flue/liner seems like it might take a bit longer to establish a draft. Once all of it is warmed the amount of draft, as you said, shouldn't be an issue. Getting it there might be.

Maybe burn 2 pieces of newspaper to get a draft established. Just a thought.

Getting my brick chimney warm enough to establish a draft takes several pieces from a cold start.

 

[twofer]

Two nights ago I gave the top down method a whirl. To say the least I am very impressed with this method and wish I would have known about it before now. The fire started effortlessly and was burning good in much less time than it usually takes.

This site is chock full of good information.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

What I like most about it is that I get longer burn times using the same amount of wood. Second to that is the fact that it is a more even heat during the entire course of the burn time.

What prompted me to mention this started from another thread about OWBs.

I wondered if burning from the top down might help their burn times and lower the emmisions of older OWB's/stoves without an expensive retrofit or replacement. It seems that some designers are already aware of it. One member posted that his manual states something along the lines of - a fire in the back of the burner area burns more efficiently than one in the front. But then who reads a manual. As my kids say "Not-Me !" Not-me seems to do a lot of things around our house.

 

[coog]

But then who reads a manual. As my kids say "Not-Me !

See, I made the mistake of reading mine (actually, I wouldn't have needed to, as there were TWO extra sheets of paper warning not to burn with either door open) I'll try more paper to warm the flu tonight.

Oh, we got rained out of the Hedge-fest.Have to wait until it dries enough to get his skid in there,

 

[Madspeed]

Not me must be the brother of No one, because thats who always meeses things up around here

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Reading a manual isn't always a mistake. If I'm not very familiar with what I'm working on I will go to it if having trouble. If I am putting it together I will spread the pieces out and confirm they are all there then start in on it.

Not to many hidden processes, levers, handles or buttons on a wood stove. Well not most ones anyway. Wood cookstoves have a few tricks to them, so I hear. As a small kid I wasn't allowed close to g-ma's stove. Hers had a few on it and one or 2 more in the back.

The manual might mean not to burn for extended periods, Lighting may not be counted as burning. :dunno:

Tell em No-one doesnt live here so someone better get in here and take care of this.

 

[abohac]

Too technical!

I like the sideward burn myself. I find that it gives off heat.