Trajectile Dysfunction: Part Deux

[HuskStihl]

I'm glad to see that you're not a slave to fashion. Slowp has been trying to get us all color-coordinated for years but so far we've held out against it. She doesn't give up easy...watch out.

On the subject of videos...don't worry about it too much. It probably won't ever happen again but if you watched a video of me putting in sutures you'd probably fall down laughing.

Having 4 kids takes away any desire or incentive for fashion.
Next week I'm removing a thyroid tumor roughly the size of a coconut. I'll post a few pics to demonstrate that there are some circumstances in which my cuts match up just fine. Just don't expect a humboldt:msp_biggrin:

 

[HuskStihl]

ya wanna see no fashion sense lol .........View attachment 302265

That's a really good picture. That u'r 2100?

 

[bustedup]

That was taken a year or so ago I think .......It either the 2100 or a 480 but I think it the 2100

 

[twochains]

That's a really good picture. That u'r 2100?

ain't he a mean lookin' ####er?? :msp_w00t:

 

[twochains]

Husk- I can't see yer vid??? IDK

 

[HuskStihl]

ain't he a mean lookin' ####er?? :msp_w00t:

He definitely is. Kind of like an angry Oompa Loompa:jester:

 

[HuskStihl]

Husk- I can't see yer vid??? IDK

U'r not missing much. Best part was the buzzards circling overhead. They have an amazing instinct for who should not have a chainsaw:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[treeslayer2003]

ya wanna see no fashion sense lol .........View attachment 302265

looks like a logger, needs a trim, but a logger. {nature took care of me needin a trim so I jus jelous}

 

[HuskStihl]

nature took care of me needin a trim so I jus jelous}

I don't wear that helmet for safety, it's to keep my bald spot from burning

 

[treeslayer2003]

I don't wear that helmet for safety, it's to keep my bald spot from burning

sunburnt scalp hurts don't it doc?

 

[HuskStihl]

sunburnt scalp hurts don't it doc?

What I hate is when it peels and looks like the mother of all dandruff

 

[roberte]

ya wanna see no fashion sense lol .........View attachment 302265

I dont see anything wrong with your fashion, but the 80s called, they want there hairstyle back

 

[bitzer]

Jon- When you were explaining the procedure on what your plan was with the tree I kind of thought, this guy sounds like a doctor or something.

Well I'll take the kid gloves off a little. You still cut under the lean! You made all of your face cuts under the lean. The holding wood corner (the corner away from the lean) is where you want to make your cuts from. Its a lot easier to see that corner and that is the corner you want to keep intact. If you bypass the far side corner (under the lean) its not that big of a deal because you are cutting it off anyway. Check your saw's progress well before you think you will hit the far corner. In the same way you hold your saw level to the tree when making your gunning cut, you hold it level to the bottom of the Humboldt just at an angle if you get my meaning. You can make all cuts from one side of the tree (away from the lean). Kneeling can help get your cuts level.

If you put a Dutchman in make sure you cut all the wood off behind it. We don't have gum up here, but species that will chair can if there is holding wood behind a Dutchman. The tree would have done the same thing without the block using a snipe. Hell it may have not even needed a snipe, but a snipe will help with the movement. Like if you put a snipe on the butt of the stem with the Humboldt you put in there. If you do it right it will keep the butt on the stump longer allowing the swing to work longer as well as helping guide it to the lay. I do not believe in the chunk in the face to swing a tree. You can get plenty done without it.

You hit the lay which was good and you're getting the mechanics down. You just need more stump time. Theres no shame in taking your time to make sure everything is going to work properly. Its not a race. Just like anything else, fluidity in movements becomes sort of a reflex with enough practice. Knowing when you've got enough wood to keep it on the stump for the swing. When to put a wedge in. When you need to cut more to make the wedging easier. When to quit cutting and beat it over. Sawing it up when its moving. Watching the top. Knowing when to stop. On and on. I'm glad you've got the nuts to post your videos. Now when do we get the bucking videos?

 

[roberte]

The undercut takes a lot if practice, humbolt or conventional, so props to you for even doing it. Once you get your angle down and learn to pivot that saw dog you will be fine.
The socks really....

Now if you want to ridicule some fashion, here is a mugshot

View attachment 302409

Oh, if you need help judging the angle on your humbolt, the ground is the best indicator

 

[HuskStihl]

Jon- When you were explaining the procedure on what your plan was with the tree I kind of thought, this guy sounds like a doctor or something.

Well I'll take the kid gloves off a little. You still cut under the lean! You made all of your face cuts under the lean. The holding wood corner (the corner away from the lean) is where you want to make your cuts from. Its a lot easier to see that corner and that is the corner you want to keep intact. If you bypass the far side corner (under the lean) its not that big of a deal because you are cutting it off anyway. Check your saw's progress well before you think you will hit the far corner. In the same way you hold your saw level to the tree when making your gunning cut, you hold it level to the bottom of the Humboldt just at an angle if you get my meaning. You can make all cuts from one side of the tree (away from the lean). Kneeling can help get your cuts level.

If you put a Dutchman in make sure you cut all the wood off behind it. We don't have gum up here, but species that will chair can if there is holding wood behind a Dutchman. The tree would have done the same thing without the block using a snipe. Hell it may have not even needed a snipe, but a snipe will help with the movement. Like if you put a snipe on the butt of the stem with the Humboldt you put in there. If you do it right it will keep the butt on the stump longer allowing the swing to work longer as well as helping guide it to the lay. I do not believe in the chunk in the face to swing a tree. You can get plenty done without it.

You hit the lay which was good and you're getting the mechanics down. You just need more stump time. Theres no shame in taking your time to make sure everything is going to work properly. Its not a race. Just like anything else, fluidity in movements becomes sort of a reflex with enough practice. Knowing when you've got enough wood to keep it on the stump for the swing. When to put a wedge in. When you need to cut more to make the wedging easier. When to quit cutting and beat it over. Sawing it up when its moving. Watching the top. Knowing when to stop. On and on. I'm glad you've got the nuts to post your videos. Now when do we get the bucking videos?

Another great splainin' stuff post Bitz. I had thought avoiding cutting under the lean only mattered on the back cut! Crazy newbie! I appreciate very much you and busted giving me big boy advice. I am going to need a full wrap handle. I will probably also take TB's advice on a 5lb rafting axe. Big Bob had me a little nervous about hitting wedges hard, but then I remembered I have the upper body strength of an 11 year old girl, so I'll prolly be pretty safe!
I bucked it up into 4ft rounds this morning, and actually made a stumping video. This was mostly to defend my saws honor as I had forgotten to retune it after richening it way up to lend to someone.

 

[bitzer]

Another great splainin' stuff post Bitz. I had thought avoiding cutting under the lean only mattered on the back cut! Crazy newbie! I appreciate very much you and busted giving me big boy advice. I am going to need a full wrap handle. I will probably also take TB's advice on a 5lb rafting axe. Big Bob had me a little nervous about hitting wedges hard, but then I remembered I have the upper body strength of an 11 year old girl, so I'll prolly be pretty safe!
I bucked it up into 4ft rounds this morning, and actually made a stumping video. This was mostly to defend my saws honor as I had forgotten to retune it after richening it way up to lend to someone.

No problem! You don't need a full wrap to cut from one side of the tree. Especially on higher stumps. And theres always back-barring! I back bar either the face cuts or the back cut, depending on what I'm doing and the tree lean. High stumpin you can flip the saw over, but making low stumps in hardwood, back barring is pretty much a given.

 

[HuskStihl]

Needed a wedge, but was too lazy to get one

[video=youtube;CJca3PMypXk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=CJca3PMypXk[/video]

 

[bustedup]

Jon get a full wrap bro you'll find it way easier to cut with the pulling chain rather than a pushing one........just my opinion but you'll level and match ya cuts better that way esp with a larger saw


As far as all the finesse cuts ......bro always bear in mind that they are of great use and value however .......there is theory involved in them and applying theory to practice takes time to learn and even then it can still go tits up........try and keep it simple bro.


I know ya really wanna use the humbolt which is cool but if ya gonna fall leaners etc then maybe the bare or open face would be easier to use ........start with the humbolt on smaller things and maybe even with a smaller saw til ya get the knack......folks may disagree with me on that but I'd hate to see ya get hurt.......you got a day job that kinda important.


Jon honestly use the dogs on the saw to level it ........you'll find it will help and don't force the saw let it do the work


but all in all your doing fine

 

[056kid]

I'll bet you a dollar that if you slow down your cutting will improve. On the gun cut, just bury the bar, then have a look at things, check depth and gun, look up and ****. Cut some more and look some more. Theny when the gunning has been addressed, back or pull the saw out, line it up just like you did, and try this. point the bar still level, where you gunned, put some angle on it and ease it around on a plain until you have started a kerf. That's one, the other is to keep the bar near the tree and pointing the flat surface where you gunned. A steep face angle aids in getting aim right. Also, as soon as your saw will sit in the kerf, go around back and see if your bar, well chain is on the eight path. You want to peer from the gun kerf and seem chain, with no bar visIble, you can do that from the bar side, but unless your sawing up high the first seems easier. It doswnt matter. If you do find that tour cuts are off by more than an inch, abort and redo your second cut. I don't know if you run round or square filed, staring a new kerf in an existing one with round chain can be a #####
Like I said, just slow it down some and it will come.
Hopefully I didn't repeat anyone with that. If so, sorry.
And good progress too!

 

[056kid]

I watched vid #2, another dollar says that block in the face was what you where wedging. A little more kerf and no block and you proably would not have had to do more than set a wedge. I could be totally off though.. did you just jam the block in there, or dis you put it so you can get some momentum to overcome the lift it creates. Good work though.