HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
I'll bet you a dollar that if you slow down your cutting will improve. On the gun cut, just bury the bar, then have a look at things, check depth and gun, look up and ****. Cut some more and look some more. Theny when the gunning has been addressed, back or pull the saw out, line it up just like you did, and try this. point the bar still level, where you gunned, put some angle on it and ease it around on a plain until you have started a kerf. That's one, the other is to keep the bar near the tree and pointing the flat surface where you gunned. A steep face angle aids in getting aim right. Also, as soon as your saw will sit in the kerf, go around back and see if your bar, well chain is on the eight path. You want to peer from the gun kerf and seem chain, with no bar visIble, you can do that from the bar side, but unless your sawing up high the first seems easier. It doswnt matter. If you do find that tour cuts are off by more than an inch, abort and redo your second cut. I don't know if you run round or square filed, staring a new kerf in an existing one with round chain can be a #####
Like I said, just slow it down some and it will come.
Hopefully I didn't repeat anyone with that. If so, sorry.
And good progress too!
Thanks for your help. The video process makes me rush, but I notice with my kids sports videos are great for getting better faster. I stuffed a piece of the face into the kerf Dutch to make sure the tree started turning right away to miss the cedar. You are echoing Bustedup who told me that on back leaners that block will just work against the wedges and hold stuff up. That never entered into my mind, but makes perfect sense once pointed out. I'm trying to slow my movements, but at the same time speed up my falling be getting more efficient. Work in progress