transfer work

[blsnelling]

after you said that i looked at my pics and the last pic i posted it looks like theres a faint line right on the edge of my intake if that is the case im there already with the intake and could widen the transfers alittle

Don't forget to watch those ring ends when bringing the transfers back on Stihls in particular. Stihl likes to leave the ring ends about even with the skirt edges. Husky is more kind to use porters and they move them much closer to the center of the port. FYI, I want more cylinder wall for a ring end to ride on, than what I might leave for a piston skirt to seal against. In other words, I'll get closer to a skirt edge than I will a ring end.

 

[Evan]

k thanks for info ill make sure.

gota go the dump now. so maybe ill end up putting this off for alittle bit

 

[dk27]

why the big mystery on doing transfer work on a jug of this type?

Rereading my own statement ,I may have been able to phrase that better. I hope diidn't slight anyone.

 

[blsnelling]

Rereading my own statement ,I may have been able to phrase that better. I hope diidn't slight anyone.

I personally don't think it is. To me, it's just another one of those hand-me-down urban legends. What is different about them, is that they are harder to do.

 

[nmurph]

so, in doing transfers you want to widen the entrance and exit and not worry about the cross-section of the transfer, so as not to reduce the velocity of the charge?

 

[AUSSIE1]

The mystery you talk of is more related to the port on the cylinder wall, not the channel leading to it. The channel is not nearly as critical. Take out too much though, and you're liable to reduce velocity. I don't think that's a concern though with the above mentioned mods.

Yeah this is just your basic "woody" woods porting. Nothing fancy here.

I agree. It's surprising how little I took out of here. The little bit of cyl next to the transfers has been taken down level with the deck, ala 385/390. The divider sharpened a tad. Some say yes here, some say no, I've met in the middle with this one. Most of the material removed is below the deck and little by the time you have reached in the transfer. I find it easiest to just use the base gasket as a template. The gasket matches the cases well. When you place the gasket at the cyl, you can see the mismatch. This is what I've done to the 371 and 385.

Nmurph, I haven't widened or lengthened at all. All I've done is blend/match the cyl to the case.

 

[AUSSIE1]

 

[AUSSIE1]

Beautiful Assuie1

Thats exactly what i was hoping to see.I do see the protrusion that you we're referring to.Also how you blended and sharpened things up.

why the big mystery on doing transfer work on a jug of this type?

Obviously its a more detailed controlled type of grinding, you're just not hogging out a bunch of metal.I'll just mirror within reason what you've shown.

What kind of gains and where,would you expect to find from this work?
1. faster revving?
2. more torque?

I only ever cut hardwood, so this basic porting lends to great torque with increased revs.
With this cyl I will play with the Timing no's a bit more.

 

[dk27]

Most of the material removed is below the deck and little by the time you have reache

Al
If understand correctly most of the work was done UP in the passage it's self?This went all the way up to the floor of the port ?

If you had to put a number to it, how much is gained by working the transfers alone?
What I mean is,say if you gain 15% -20% in performance by just porting the intake and exhaust.
would you gain another3%,5%,10% by going back in and working on the transfers?

Do you normal do any work to the port in the cylinder itself,like Brad spoke of and Evans pics showed?

Sorry for all the questions,I'm just trying to fully understand the concept and the steps before I proceed

 

[AUSSIE1]

I haven't done transfers separate from inlet/exhaust to know.
Best to do them altogether and them all.
This bit of transfer only took a 1/2 hour.
Most of the work is on the outside, not the inside.
Most of what I have done is match the cyl to the crankcase and unshroud the entry. Very little done going in to the transfer, just blending.
I will bring the upper transfer back toward the inlet a tad but don't have a right angle drive to do much more than this.

 

[blsnelling]

I will bring the upper transfer back toward the inlet a tad but don't have a right angle drive to do anymore than this.

A small cutoff wheel works great with a really careful hand.

 

[AUSSIE1]

A small cutoff wheel works great with a really careful hand.

Yeah mate, I understand this. I tend to think you can't go in too far or high with a cut off wheel while trying to keep the roof reasonably flat. Considering that not alot needs to be removed suggests this should be OK. The 371/2 aren't bad to start with.

The 395BB I feel is the one that could really benefit from an attack with a cutter to the upper transfers.

 

[bonden]

Hi AUSSIE1
Here is the kind of grinding stone/wheel i used to do transfers on the 064 saw.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Hi AUSSIE1
Here is the kind of grinding stone/wheel i used to do transfers on the 064 saw.

Ta mate.
Nice long shank on those I could do with.
I'm familiar with this but your limited to how much and deep you can go with a wheel. You can open it back to the inlet a touch which of course helps.
What I would like to be able to do is take the upper transfer all the way back to the bend. More so with the 395BB. The 371/2 aren't bad to start with, but to do the uppers properly (raising) you would need to go back to the bend. Just my take on it, but I could be way off, lol.

I've noticed your cutters before Bonden, they're beauties.

 

[breymeyerfam]

i've been checkin out right angle attachments. 95 bucks for the foredom and ten buck a pop for the special burrs for it. then ya still have to buy the drive! 400 all together!!! found an air right angle for 160, but not sure if the head is as small as i want. but i'm gonna have to figure something out, as I want to completely rework the transfers of the saw im buildin right now.

 

[AUSSIE1]

i've been checkin out right angle attachments. 95 bucks for the foredom and ten buck a pop for the special burrs for it. then ya still have to buy the drive! 400 all together!!! found an air right angle for 160, but not sure if the head is as small as i want. but i'm gonna have to figure something out, as I want to completely rework the transfers of the saw im buildin right now.

And this it Levi. The cost of the right angles.
For a few barrels I can't justify such a great expense.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

Slick has to step up and show some pics of his 7900 build

Awesome work.

Have you run this jug Al? The difference appears BIG and I can imagine the performance will be too. That looks like good exit flow for the crankcase waiting to happen

 

[breymeyerfam]

here is a side beside of an 026 transfer. of course one is new 260 and the other is old mahle, but you can see how much i've hogged out, but can only get so far w/ a straight grinder...

 

[AUSSIE1]

Awesome work.

Have you run this jug Al? The difference appears BIG and I can imagine the performance will be too. That looks like good exit flow for the crankcase waiting to happen

No I haven't Rick.
This is basically what I did to the BB kit on the 371 now.
This is a cyl I've had lying around for a while so just did one side for DK to see.
I will go up .5mm to pre base gasket removal no's at the exhaust roof.
I'll drop the inlet floor .5mm.
I'll raise the transfers a touch also.
(dependent on my comp/squish)

The cyl on the 371 ATM I wont touch as it runs well as is and use this cyl for experimenting .

It looks like I've flogged out the transfer, but I haven't. It's the unshrouding that makes it more open which I reckon is a good thing as I'm not flogging out the transfers.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

If you have a dremel, this cutter might help you out to smooth that part up a bit.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=198

It's a relatively small cutter. There might be just enough room for some careful porting??