Tree Felling with Rope?

[TheJollyLogger]

You don't need a progress capture pulley, as the Maasdam is ratcheted. Any decent arborist pulley will work. You are only using it as a re-direct. https://www.treestuff.com/cmi-rp105-heavy-duty-5-8-rope-pulley/


I use endless loop purple round slings and 5/8" shackles. Tulsa chain is a good source https://www.tulsachain.com/

Your diagram is essentially correct though I try not to offset in-line with my direction of pull. Remember that your hinge will determine where the tree goes and once it starts moving forward, and once it's on its way, the Maasdam line will go slack.

Even with the recommended 1/2" 3 strand rope a masdaam can slip on the cam. I would always recommend using a progress capture.

 

[AT sawyer]

Even with the recommended 1/2" 3 strand rope a masdaam can slip on the cam. I would always recommend using a progress capture.

Professionally, yes. OP was a homeowner taking down a few small trees. I was recommending a basic kit.

 

[vicuna]

I found that Petzl pulley on a huge sale ($130). it's rated for 5kn (~1.100 lbs) max on the progress capture part. (much more on just the pulley). I can use it with just the pulley mode also without progress capture. so I'll be able to try both ways if the progress capture interferes in some way.

I understand the maasdam is rated for 1,500, but I am guessing I'll never come near that on just toppling a tree over. (i'll be calling a professional if it ever gets to that point). if I ever have to move something heavy on the ground I'll keep the progress capture off.

this pulley itself is nice as it has a swivel built in...and is rated super efficient.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBQFTQFH

thank you everyone!

 

[david newbie]

I've used a Maasdam rope puller for 25 years and never had a rope slip problem. From the visuals in that video, he wasn't using the right rope and I'll bet he bought just the puller and was using a non-recommended rope. Those pullers require three strand. That carabiner also looked dodgy. Maasdams should come with a load rated hook on each end.
A rope puller won't land your tree on a dime if you don't make a proper hinge. It will help with back lean and pulling a limb bound tree loose, but once the tree is on its way down and the line goes slack, that tree will go where your hinge aimed it. Also keep in mind that a single rig will start the tree towards you. An offset block on your aim tree to redirect the rope to an anchor tree for the Maasdam is a safer approach.View attachment 1219904

I am a newbie to falling, but I have always used a standard come along with a wire cable and attach that to the rope in the tree. Is a rope puller somehow better of safer than my come along with wire cable method? Thanks

 

[uniballer]

I am a newbie to falling, but I have always used a standard come along with a wire cable and attach that to the rope in the tree. Is a rope puller somehow better of safer than my come along with wire cable method? Thanks

The Maasdam rope puller can pull for a much longer distance without having to reposition anything.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

The Maasdam rope puller can pull for a much longer distance without having to reposition anything.

That's it in a nutshell. Since the masdaam attaches directly to the rope, your length of pull is limited only by the length of your rope.

 

[chipper1]

To the OP.
When pulling back leaners I do everything can to get a pull set up 180 degrees to the direction of the lean. The pull line set up this way will eliminate most side lean issues, if you have a side lean and start pulling on a back leaner, as soon as you get your backcut finished the hinge could break and the tree go to the side lean. Many times when cutting a leaner you can set a side line to totally direct the fall(just the one line), or to assist when using another line to pull.
The tree in your diagram looks like a good one to practice on. I'd toss a line over the large branch and utilize a basil tie/bringing the rope to the base of the tree just above where you plan on making your notch. Make sure the tail of your knot you keep up put of the way too. When you bring your rope over the branch and around the tree you need to do so in a way to make the rope pull as much as possible on the stem.
As was also mentioned you can send a running bowline up to the same spot. If I want to be able to remove the line I just tie my throw line or another smaller rope to the bowline so I can pull it back down if needed. On this one it's not really needed and a running bowline or a basil tie would both work equally well.
Something to consider if you use the basil tie method, the rope could get pinch under the stem and could be in the way of bucking the tree up, so care must be taken not to cut your rope.

Also, I have both winches you talked about, I use the skidding winch on my tractor the most though.

 

[AT sawyer]

I am a newbie to falling, but I have always used a standard come along with a wire cable and attach that to the rope in the tree. Is a rope puller somehow better of safer than my come along with wire cable method? Thanks

As others have mentioned, the 3-strand rope that comes with it can be as long as you want. Mine is 60' but you can order much longer.

I put my Masdam on a dynamometer to check its tension and can attest to the advertised 1500# pull. Because the Maasdam does not have shear pins like a Griphoist (another cool tool), if you overpower it and bend the wishbone handle you're F'd. If you can't get the necessary tension on the Maasdam, add a block to your rigging and double the MA.

 

[chipper1]

Here's what can be done with a skidding winch and a power puller, don't try this with a Maasdam lol.
Let the critiquing begin .

 

[Valpen]

GREAT drawing!!

View attachment 1222783

 

[WoodmanSr]

To the OP.
When pulling back leaners I do everything can to get a pull set up 180 degrees to the direction of the lean. The pull line set up this way will eliminate most side lean issues, if you have a side lean and start pulling on a back leaner, as soon as you get your backcut finished the hinge could break and the tree go to the side lean. Many times when cutting a leaner you can set a side line to totally direct the fall(just the one line), or to assist when using another line to pull.
The tree in your diagram looks like a good one to practice on. I'd toss a line over the large branch and utilize a basil tie/bringing the rope to the base of the tree just above where you plan on making your notch. Make sure the tail of your knot you keep up put of the way too. When you bring your rope over the branch and around the tree you need to do so in a way to make the rope pull as much as possible on the stem.
As was also mentioned you can send a running bowline up to the same spot. If I want to be able to remove the line I just tie my throw line or another smaller rope to the bowline so I can pull it back down if needed. On this one it's not really needed and a running bowline or a basil tie would both work equally well.
Something to consider if you use the basil tie method, the rope could get pinch under the stem and could be in the way of bucking the tree up, so care must be taken not to cut your rope.

Also, I have both winches you talked about, I use the skidding winch on my tractor the most though.

Love my Maasdam. I cut alone so a trustworthy tool. It's not a miracle device. If throwing you weight into crank lever then it's maxed out. Get other assistance (why I've invested in two 1/2" rope; Maasdam 3-strand & an crotch rigging rated 1/2"... plus 2 or more anchor slings).
Great advice on leaners. What not mentioned, if rig off lean then when tree goes sideways, so does your rigging line. Tries to pull down adjacent trees, rope tensions to extreme or breaks, even best knot ties clinch to a rock. Either cutting rope loose... or slice apart tree to free & 30-40 minutes with pliers to release knot. (how do I know ?)
Masadam compensates for stretch. All rope has stretch. If you pulling 100ft on 2% stretch rope then 2 ft is stretch take-up at working load limit, say 2000#. Big deal when only 10' (or 5' doubling) on a cable puller.
Maasdam with 100' to 120' rope is minimum IMO. Gets you away, more anchor options, keep rigging at flatter angles so more power applied to tree.
Always set tree tie as high as possible. First point, Maasdam has limits. 1500 # exhausted quickly on a troublesome tree.

 

[vicuna]

ok thank you. these are all lessons I'd rather not learn with my experience so I really appreciate it.

if I can't get close to 180 degrees on a leaner I'll just call a pro.

I bought the 200' rope so I'll have more anchor options. I'm not worried about losing efficiency if I need much less since it's not my job...i'll just pull it through...nbd.

tyty

great thread

 

[AT sawyer]

ok thank you. these are all lessons I'd rather not learn with my experience so I really appreciate it.

if I can't get close to 180 degrees on a leaner I'll just call a pro.

I bought the 200' rope so I'll have more anchor options. I'm not worried about losing efficiency if I need much less since it's not my job...i'll just pull it through...nbd.

tyty

great thread

Post a couple pics of the tree. That'll give us an idea of what you plan to take down, and generate more advice.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Love my Maasdam. I cut alone so a trustworthy tool. It's not a miracle device. If throwing you weight into crank lever then it's maxed out. Get other assistance (why I've invested in two 1/2" rope; Maasdam 3-strand & an crotch rigging rated 1/2"... plus 2 or more anchor slings).
Great advice on leaners. What not mentioned, if rig off lean then when tree goes sideways, so does your rigging line. Tries to pull down adjacent trees, rope tensions to extreme or breaks, even best knot ties clinch to a rock. Either cutting rope loose... or slice apart tree to free & 30-40 minutes with pliers to release knot. (how do I know ?)
Masadam compensates for stretch. All rope has stretch. If you pulling 100ft on 2% stretch rope then 2 ft is stretch take-up at working load limit, say 2000#. Big deal when only 10' (or 5' doubling) on a cable puller.
Maasdam with 100' to 120' rope is minimum IMO. Gets you away, more anchor options, keep rigging at flatter angles so more power applied to tree.
Always set tree tie as high as possible. First point, Maasdam has limits. 1500 # exhausted quickly on a troublesome tree.

What knots are you using?

 

[vicuna]

Post a couple pics of the tree. That'll give us an idea of what you plan to take down, and generate more advice.

there is a creek (it's dry now) in the direction it's leaning...I wanna fell it to it's left just for convenience bucking it up. basically I want it to go where the wood pile is in the pic.

it's ash but I'm not suuuuper worried it's rotten. you can see the other trees were all pretty strong inside. I won't rule it out though and i'll be careful.

 

[AT sawyer]

there is a creek (it's dry now) in the direction it's leaning...I wanna fell it to it's left just for convenience bucking it up. basically I want it to go where the wood pile is in the pic.

it's ash but I'm not suuuuper worried it's rotten. you can see the other trees were all pretty strong inside. I won't rule it out though and i'll be careful.

Nice open crotch to toss a line into. I'd still give it a couple thumps with the poll of your axe to sound it as dead ash can be soft (beware of dead branches raining on your head). Gun your cut about four feet to upslope side of that woodpile to account for side lean and anchor your puller or offset block in that direction.
You must be in the FAR suburbs of Philly.

 

[vicuna]

ok will do. i'll give it a go this weekend or next.

all my gear should be in and I have a much smaller tree to practice on to get a little familiar with the equipment.

yeah I'm an ~hour out of the city...wouldn't mind being further out some day.

 

[chipper1]

ok thank you. these are all lessons I'd rather not learn with my experience so I really appreciate it.

if I can't get close to 180 degrees on a leaner I'll just call a pro.

I bought the 200' rope so I'll have more anchor options. I'm not worried about losing efficiency if I need much less since it's not my job...i'll just pull it through...nbd.

tyty

great thread

Experience, what you get when things don't go as planned...

 

[AT sawyer]

Many people on this site have garages full of gear they've acquired over the years. Winches, pullers, blocks, portawraps, cables, slings, etc and more recently Dyneema ropes. With use comes experience and lessons learned (oh how I pontificate.....).
Use of a ground anchor can allow you to line up your pull in direct line with your intended lay, especially if you don't have a tree to anchor your puller on. That's the upside. Downside is the anchor may pull out of the ground and it's another piece of kit to get. If the line is taught and the load isn't moving yet you're still cranking the puller handle, turn around a see what your anchor is doing.

 

[CJ1]

Go to summit racing and look up recovery gear, snatch blocks ect. They have tree saver slings and just about anything to attach pulling equipment. As far as rope, I use knot and rope supply out of Ohio I believe, very good service and they know their stuff. I have a 3/4" bull rope from them that gets tied on to a frontend loader or truck on almost every removal that is high risk. My main tool is a 4500lb 12v remote control winch. It is a cheap Champion that just keeps going. I also have a 8k Warn winch for backup. I attach the winch with grade 70, 5/16 chain and tape any hooks that may come loose if something snaps and causes slack. The winches are set up with 2" receiver mounts from a hitch and hooks for attaching chain to the pulling anchor [usually a tree]. I prefer to use chain and cables as there is no give and I can tell any movement is from the tree. Anyway the most important thing is to be safe and not get hurt. The laws of physics can be your friend and allow you to have a successful drop or they can destroy property or worse kill someone. If you are in doubt talk to or get help from someone experienced not someone who "thinks that'll work"!! CJ