triming/bucking questions

[Log Splitter]

I cut a lot of hardwood, mostly hickory up to 24 dbh, for firewood. Once the tree is down, I remove all the limbs from the 3 sides that are not under pressure and buck the larger pieces of these limbs for firewood. All this mess is removed from the work area around the trunk as I go. Next I start bucking the trunk from the top, working towards the stump. When I get to the first limb under pressure, I stop cutting and lift the end of the trunk with my tractor (originally I used a high lift jack). I block up the tree as far towards the stump as I can fit a double length unsplit round and let off with the tractor (or jack). Hopefully, the log is now supported by the round, and the first couple of limbs are no longer under pressure. I now cut off these limbs, and continue bucking the trunk. Then when I reach the next limb under pressure I raise the trunk and repeat the process.

I know that if I were a pro logger I'd go broke using this method, but for cutting firewood for personal use it works for me. I avoid the bound up bars and the need to use wedges this way. It has the added advantage of keeping the log off the ground where I'm bucking. This makes bucking easier without risk of the chain contacting the ground and getting instantly dull. Also, the length of the rounds can be kept consistent with this technique, and the firewood stays clean. The disadvantage is terrain, especially if you drop a tree in steep terrain. But since I know my limitations, and have a choice about which trees to cut, I stay away from steep hillsides.

I wear PPE and always make sure the log is stable after I let it down on the block so it can't roll on me. I've never had any 'surprises' using this technique, but if any of you guys that cut all the time see a problem with it speak up. I would never want to give any bad advice here to someone that might take it and then wind up getting hurt.

 

[billyjoejr]

check out #74 and higher for bucking and limbing

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/logging/loggingpresentation/toc.html

 

[John Ellison]

One thing that I hav'nt seen mentioned yet is when bucking a log if you see that one side (or log) of your cut is going to drop and the other is supported where it will remain stationary, you can angle your cut just a hair. Looking at the cut from the side view, if the left side will stay still and the right side will drop after the cut,angle the top of the bar just slightly to the right and the log will drop freely and you will not be hung up even without a wedge. This makes a lot of difference. On a large log even with a wedge if you are straight up and down sometimes you can get pinched a little. If you angle it the wrong way even just a little you're hung up for sure unless you have it wedged, sometimes even then. This speeds things up a bit on the simple cuts as you dont need to wedge. Also you know that one side will drop to the ground (put a limb under it if you need to make more cuts) and they will not just stay in place jammed together and fall when you least expect it.

Although it is getting into more advanced and dangerous bucking this also applies to side bind too, only you angle the bar in a different plane. I think I said that right.

 

[turnkey4099]

I cut a lot of hardwood, mostly hickory up to 24 dbh, for firewood. Once the tree is down, I remove all the limbs from the 3 sides that are not under pressure and buck the larger pieces of these limbs for firewood. All this mess is removed from the work area around the trunk as I go. Next I start bucking the trunk from the top, working towards the stump. When I get to the first limb under pressure, I stop cutting and lift the end of the trunk with my tractor (originally I used a high lift jack). I block up the tree as far towards the stump as I can fit a double length unsplit round and let off with the tractor (or jack). Hopefully, the log is now supported by the round, and the first couple of limbs are no longer under pressure. I now cut off these limbs, and continue bucking the trunk. Then when I reach the next limb under pressure I raise the trunk and repeat the process.
.

I start at the top also but dismantle the entire tree as I go. Work up the limbs as I come to them and buck the log as I go. That way there is no log behind you to cause problems if the tree rolls, springs or whatever and all the tension comes out a bit at a time vice all at once.

When I get to a limb that is under pressure I can _usually_ buck it up down to the part that is under pressue on the ground and then cut it free from the trunk while standing clear of the trunk itself. Still leaves the problem of what happens to the tension in that limb though.

Harry K

 

[jbone]

once again thanks for the tips, ill have a chance to go out tommorow, and try a couple of the methods you guys mentioned.

 

[boatermark]

As for Husky137's first comment that if you can't climb you shouldn't be felling... gee... so all those years I worked as a logger felling, bucking and limbing trees on the ground I shouldn't have been? ... because I can't climb one???? Cmon....

Don't get too worked up now woodshop , Husky137 said "limb", not "climb".

 

[Bermie]

Bucking: cutting a spar/trunk/tree to lengths after it's on the ground.
Limbing: removing limbs after it's on the ground.
Trimming: removing limbs while it's standing, with the intent to leave it standing.

Common sense goes a long way. Look at where the tension is at, cut accordingly and get the out of the :censored: way. This is a fact of life. Don't try to cut branches that are holding the weight of the spar, but rather use them to your benefit. Take everything off on the three sides off the ground, then do what you can to buck the spar, getting it onto one of it's sides so you can limb the fourth side.

And thanks for searching first. Good for you!

Jeff

Here's another translation:

Snedding: removing limbs from a conifer, takes advantage of the regular whirls of branches
Delimbing: removing limbs from a hardwood
Crosscutting: Cutting the bare pole into lengths

When snedding conifers we were taught a six cut method using the tree to pivot and rest your saw on. At all times the bar is flush with the trunk to avoid leaving snags.
Cut 1: saw on far side cutting upward
Cut 2: saw laid flat cutting with pushing chain removing branches on top
Cut 3: saw swiveled, cut down with pulling chain
Advance to next whirl of branchs
Cut 4: Cut upwards with pushing chain
Cut 5: saw laid flat cut with pushing chain again removing branches on top
Cut 6: saw on far side cutting down with pulling chain

I've watched forestry guys in Wales do this and I swear their saws were a blur they were moving so fast!

The last thing was then to turn the pole, either with hand tools or a winch and finish whats left. We don't have many conifer here so mostly I delimb. With irregular branch spacing and thicknesses, as Jeff says, use common sense, observe what's going on at all times. Watch your cut, you may have estimated the tension and compression incorrectly, we all do it some time or other, if you are paying attention and the cut moves contrary to what you thought it would, you can stop in time and switch around, otherwise its time for the spare saw!!!

Oh yeah, get some PPE, a lot of this stuff it done with the saw in close proximity to your legs and feet - BE SAFE

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Jeff has it covered pretty well.
Don't be in a hurry and take time to clear cut limbs as you go. There isn't to much worse than stumbling around in branches/debris with a running chainsaw.

Ed

Unfortunatly thats not my situation, balls to the wall.

But well said.

 

[Gologit]

It really doesn't do any good to make hard and fast rules about limbing and bucking. There were a lot of good ideas and rules in this thread and most of them would work under a given circumstance. Just don't be too surprised when they absolutely don't work at all. Just remember that the tree didn't read the rule book. The tree doesn't care if it hurts you. Size up every tree...size up every cut. They're all different. I've had limbs and logs do thing I would have bet money that they wouldn't and couldn't do. Just don't count on rules and procedures to keep yourself safe...use your head.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

It really doesn't do any good to make hard and fast rules about limbing and bucking. There were a lot of good ideas and rules in this thread and most of them would work under a given circumstance. Just don't be too surprised when they absolutely don't work at all. Just remember that the tree didn't read the rule book. The tree doesn't care if it hurts you. Size up every tree...size up every cut. They're all different. I've had limbs and logs do thing I would have bet money that they wouldn't and couldn't do. Just don't count on rules and procedures to keep yourself safe...use your head.

What if a loaded limb uses your head for you? Youch!
Have had it happen a time or two - it's a good learner though...he he.

 

[Gologit]

What if a loaded limb uses your head for you? Youch!
Have had it happen a time or two - it's a good learner though...he he.

Yeah, I know what you mean. My nose has been broken three times...twice by my hardhat brim getting slammed down on it and once by one of those "loaded" limbs. I don't know about the "learner" part though...doesn't seem like a lot of that going on.

 

[Ekka]

I know a dude who fell on a running saw and chainsawed his head! His glasses saved his eye.

I had this guy loading leopard tree limbs in my truck one day, they're real springy. Well, he like forced a longer one into the truck and let it go .... doooosssshhhh, straight in the forehead, he opted for glue instead of stitches so he didn't look like frankenstein. lol I told him bows/arrows worked on the same principals. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[bradstr]

I think another point to make is not to worry just about the tree you are limbing, but also, any springpoles and widowmakers above. Also, if the tree I'm limbing has large limbs or look to be under tension I will cut them about a foot or more away from the main stem. That way I can assure getting nice and close to the stem without worrying about pinching or binding the saw.