Troubleshooting oiler

[STOVE]

Working through an 026 I picked up.

Bucked a pecan trunk today and bar sprocket seized near the end of the day.

Took the bar off and watched some oil being pumped out of the hole. From all of my reading these automatic oilers should make a mess when sitting at idle. It doesn’t make a mess, or paint a nice line when pointed at a stump

Tonight, I disassembled, cleaned a crazy amount of crud out of the case. Pulled the tank pickup hose out and blasted air through it. Seemed ok. Couldn’t get the 90 degree hose off the exit or pump.

My next thought is to check the alignment of the holes in the bar with the pump hole.

What else can I do to trouble shoot the oiler itself?

 

[Tobystihl]

Is the pump adjustable? Small hole on the bottom of saw midway clutch side.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Depending on when it was made it can oil only when the clutch drum is turning, or it can oil all the time it is running. You likely have a later model.

 

[STOVE]

Is the pump adjustable? Small hole on the bottom of saw midway clutch side.

No it is the plastic constant oiler, not the Pro

 

[STOVE]

Depending on when it was made it can oil only when the clutch drum is turning, or it can oil all the time it is running. You likely have a later model.

How can I tell the date of the saw?

Also is the oil line running to the exit hole something sold in bulk at the dealer?

 

[ZeroJunk]

How can I tell the date of the saw?

Also is the oil line running to the exit hole something sold in bulk at the dealer?

Don't know about the date. The oil line has a brass insert in one end I suppose to keep it from collapsing. Dealer may stock it or can get it out of Hillsborough pretty quick.

 

[ChillyB]

I mean no disrespect, but is the chain slot in the bar packed with crapulance?

 

[STOVE]

I mean no disrespect, but is the chain slot in the bar packed with crapulance?

None taken, it was cleaned before use and during. I got it oiling today, took it all apart to access the pump and hoses, pulled the intake hose and ran air through it and blasted what looked like half a bag of potting soil out of the saw. I’m thinking the culprit was a bad connection between the hose and the little nipple thing on the automatic oiler. . Got it makeong more of a puddle this morning. Will still be keeping a close eye on it

 

[dboyd351]

Run a mix of 3 parts diesel or kerosene to 1 part bar oil for a tank or so.
easy way to help clean the crud out of the lines

 

[STOVE]

Run a mix of 3 parts diesel or kerosene to 1 part bar oil for a tank or so.
easy way to help clean the crud out of the lines

Pardon my ignorance, but will this not hurt the bar and chain? Or do I do this with it off and just feather some throttle until it’s empty? Should I expect to see some crud coming out the exit or will it be small enough I won’t be able to see it

 

[Mad Professor]

How can I tell the date of the saw?

Also is the oil line running to the exit hole something sold in bulk at the dealer?

I think you can buy it bulk, but you only need ~3"

Pretty sure the 036 uses the same size hose and they sell an oil hose kit: hose, spring, and brass thimble/nipple for outlet. There is enough hose to do two lines.

Don't forget the spring insert or the hose will collapse/kink. You need to heat the hose to get it on the pump nipple and insert the brass thimble, the material is a very stiff plastic tubing. I've used a Bic lighter to heat it, but too much heat will make the hose too mushy. Not sure if boiling water would be better means of heating it?

Service manual mentions fabricating a pair of pliers to install the hose.



You can do either the pump end or brass insert first.

Kit part # 1124 007 1010. The hose lengths are 74 and 75mm for the 036 and 026 , respectively. IPLs do not show the spring or brass nipple.

One more thing to check, there is a tank vent just above the bar studs, if it's plugged the pump won't pump as there will be a vacuum inside the oil tank.

Pics from a 036 w/adjustable oiler.

 

[STOVE]

I think you can buy it bulk, but you only need ~3"

Pretty sure the 036 uses the same size hose and they sell an oil hose kit: hose, spring, and brass thimble/nipple for outlet. There is enough hose to do two lines.

Don't forget the spring insert or the hose will collapse/kink. You need to heat the hose to get it on the pump nipple and insert the brass thimble, the material is a very stiff plastic tubing. I've used a Bic lighter to heat it, but too much heat will make the hose too mushy. Not sure if boiling water would be better means of heating it?

Service manual mentions fabricating a pair of pliers to install the hose.

View attachment 1241384

You can do either the pump end or brass insert first.

Kit part # 1124 007 1010. The hose lengths are 74 and 75mm for the 036 and 026 , respectively. IPLs do not show the spring or brass nipple.

One more thing to check, there is a tank vent just above the bar studs, if it's plugged the pump won't pump as there will be a vacuum inside the oil tank.

Pics from a 036 w/adjustable oiler.

View attachment 1241378View attachment 1241379View attachment 1241380View attachment 1241381View attachment 1241382

Awesome , thanks for the part number. I have emptied the tank and run the compressor through the vent to insure it’s working.

I and going to do the diesel and oil mix through the system.

I am glad you said the hose is stiff, I assumed it had hardened over time similar to some fuel lines

 

[Mad Professor]

Awesome , thanks for the part number. I have emptied the tank and run the compressor through the vent to insure it’s working.

I and going to do the diesel and oil mix through the system.

I am glad you said the hose is stiff, I assumed it had hardened over time similar to some fuel lines

Stiff as a Sailor on shore leave!

I've not tried to fabricate a set of pliers to install the hose as per service manual, just used needle nose pliers. Looks like would be easy to make up from a cheap set of needle nose.

Heating the hose helps a lot, it seems to be a thermoplastic.

Some manuals if you don't have them.

 

[dboyd351]

Pardon my ignorance, but will this not hurt the bar and chain? Or do I do this with it off and just feather some throttle until it’s empty? Should I expect to see some crud coming out the exit or will it be small enough I won’t be able to see it

No it will not hurt the bar and chain. It will help the bar and chain by getting more oil to them because it helps clean out thickened oil and debris.
If you hold the bar tip up to a piece of cardboard while you blip the throttle you will probably see some specks of crud flung out with the oil - that means it is working, but if you just have thickened oil from sitting a long time you may not see debris.

Just run a tank of the 3:1 mix and see what happens. You may be plesantly surprised.

I didn't make this up. The tip was passed on to me and an old Poulan thread. The old Poulan countervibes were very solid reliable saws from the 1970s to the 1980s but the oilers became finiky as they got older because they used an impulse driven oiler and as the rubber diaphragm got old and stiff, plus accumulated debris abd thickened oil would cause them to quit pumping oil.
This trick could often get them pumping again without taking the oiler apart.

 

[STOVE]

No it will not hurt the bar and chain. It will help the bar and chain by getting more oil to them because it helps clean out thickened oil and debris.
If you hold the bar tip up to a piece of cardboard while you blip the throttle you will probably see some specks of crud flung out with the oil - that means it is working, but if you just have thickened oil from sitting a long time you may not see debris.

Just run a tank of the 3:1 mix and see what happens. You may be plesantly surprised.

I didn't make this up. The tip was passed on to me and an old Poulan thread. The old Poulan countervibes were very solid reliable saws from the 1970s to the 1980s but the oilers became finiky as they got older because they used an impulse driven oiler and as the rubber diaphragm got old and stiff, plus accumulated debris abd thickened oil would cause them to quit pumping oil.
This trick could often get them pumping again without taking the oiler apart.

awesome , I will certainly give it a go.

The fuel system cleaners like quickleen do amazing work on an outboard. I guess this is doing a similar thing but a different system

 

[muddy42]

I flush out the bar oil tank with petrol. Then disassemble the clutch and bar oil pump. Clean the pump thoroughly. squirt WD40 through the lines and check. Reassemble making sure the worm gear is functioning. Reassemble the bar and fill the bar oil tank with a mix of oil and diesel. I start the saw and use the chain brake to check the clutch is on properly. Run the saw without a bar and see if oil weeps out of the oiler hole.

If still not working, I go further with the cleaning. You can disassemble the oil pump gear or replace it. You can clean or replace the oil reservoir vent and filter.

 

[STOVE]

Running the diesel and oil mix, got all kinda crud coming out, doing some test cuts on an elm log, so there’s some sawdust mixed in. Seems to be working its magic, bar is still quite warm to the touch

 

[muddy42]

Running the diesel and oil mix, got all kinda crud coming out, doing some test cuts on an elm log, so there’s some sawdust mixed in. Seems to be working its magic, bar is still quite warm to the touch

Id disassemble the bar and clean out the groove again. You can't really have too much oil, I sometimes prime the groove with oil. Check chain tension?

 

[STOVE]

Id disassemble the bar and clean out the groove again. You can't really have too much oil, I sometimes prime the groove with oil. Check chain tension?

I run my cs400 oiler wide open, so I am used to plenty of oil. The bar was brand new so it could have some overspray pain in the groove that’s still wearing away

 

[cdahl383]

If you take the bar and bar plates off does oil come out of the port when running? If so, you know it's oiling, it's just not getting to the bar. Then you'd have to check the alignment of the holes on the plates to ensure the oil can actually get to the bar.

On my old McCulloch there is a check ball there with a spring and it was seized up from lots of crud getting in there. Not sure how your saw is set up though.