Question on the use of the manometer. I have burned coal for many years and have a manometer from then. I now have it installed in my wood stove. I had always tried to maintain 0.05 draft with the coal and that seems to be working good with wood as well. Question comes from I have to use the flue pipe damper to get the draft down to 0.05, but obviously the more restrictive I make the incoming air the higher the draft pulls. So if I understand correct I should get a good fire going that I am comfortable with (with flue pipe wide open the draft is over 0.1 at this point) then close it down to 0.05 tomkeepmthe heat in the room not up the flue?Fixed it for ya
Aaron, my Yukon has both under and over the fire air like yours. I suppose that you will get the best advice from someone who has the same model furnace, but for me, I find that leaving the fire have at least a small amount (1/2 to 1 turn?) of air from under (ash drawer) at all times gives a cleaner burn. I would think you would want to control the burn rate with the upper control more so. But like others have said, you'll hafta play with it to find the best results from your particular install.
Getting a manometer to check your draft makes it easier to set your flue damper for best results. I have bought (2) Dwyer Mark II (model 25) manometers now, off fleabay for $20 or less delivered to my door. I have mine mounted on the wall next to the furnace, hooked up all the time. As others have said, a baro will give you the smoothest most controlled draft, but a manual damper and a manometer are effective too. A lot of people will say heck with the manometer, but I like to be able to see for a fact what the wind and temperature are doing to my chimney and how my damper adjustments are affecting things, but I'm a tool hound too, so...
Well, I guess that is more or less what's going on. What you are doing is controlling how much air is going through your firebox, therefore controlling the rate of burn, and the velocity of the flue gasses through the stove/furnace. Controlling the velocity, or draft speed, controls the amount of time the hot gasses have in contact with the stove top or heat exchanger. This allows you to dial in for maximize heat transfer. Slower (lower draft) is better to a point, but after that point you are getting a smouldering burn and/or lowering the chimney temp too low...compromise...
Fixed it for ya
Aaron, my Yukon has both under and over the fire air like yours. I suppose that you will get the best advice from someone who has the same model furnace, but for me, I find that leaving the fire have at least a small amount (1/2 to 1 turn?) of air from under (ash drawer) at all times gives a cleaner burn. I would think you would want to control the burn rate with the upper control more so. But like others have said, you'll hafta play with it to find the best results from your particular install.
Getting a manometer to check your draft makes it easier to set your flue damper for best results. I have bought (2) Dwyer Mark II (model 25) manometers now, off fleabay for $20 or less delivered to my door. I have mine mounted on the wall next to the furnace, hooked up all the time. As others have said, a baro will give you the smoothest most controlled draft, but a manual damper and a manometer are effective too. A lot of people will say heck with the manometer, but I like to be able to see for a fact what the wind and temperature are doing to my chimney and how my damper adjustments are affecting things, but I'm a tool hound too, so...
Thanks Jim, yes, that's a good article.
Sorry, just now seen this. Connect one line to the stove pipe, between the firebox and any pipe dampers, the other end to the right port (high) on the Dwyer. The other port/vent just gets left open to atmosphere.
