2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
He is clear cutting about 6 acres and grinding everything up with a forestry mower.
He is clear cutting about 6 acres and grinding everything up with a forestry mower.
Well, yes, but FAR less force than a wedge. Force on hinge is greater, the closer to the hinge you get with your point of leverage.
You are putting side force to tip the tree about 5 feet up the side of the tree, probably 4' away from the hinge. This is much further away from the hinge than the wedges you may already be quite comfortable using; and they are often less than 15" away from the hinge.
A wedge works a HUGE mechanical disadvantage, and pile a lot of force onto the hinge. Not quite so bad with the long jack, and practically 1:1 with a rope tied high in the tree. Obviously, the rope gives the most mechanical leverage, but often is not necessary or practical.
Hence, this thread.
The way I understood a wedge, the pressure exerted on the hinge is inline with the fibers of wood. Lifting the rear of the tree. Not a side load as mentioned above with the equipment. Pushing on the bottom 10' of a tree is what I don't understand. When he has a telecom line and a road behind that using that thing seems risky. If I can't wedge it, I have a 27' pole or a throw bag to set ropes. Im 100% pulling trees over with a rope and backing the up with a wedge. :biggrin:Im open minded though.
The way I understood a wedge, the pressure exerted on the hinge is inline with the fibers of wood. Lifting the rear of the tree. Not a side load as mentioned above with the equipment. Pushing on the bottom 10' of a tree is what I don't understand. When he has a telecom line and a road behind that using that thing seems risky. If I can't wedge it, I have a 27' pole or a throw bag to set ropes. Im 100% pulling trees over with a rope and backing the up with a wedge. :biggrin:Im open minded though.
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