Using a high lift jack for jacking over trees

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He is clear cutting about 6 acres and grinding everything up with a forestry mower.

Holy fack that's a lot if money for 6 acres. If its relatively flat I would fall in at 35k and usually get beat on land clearing. That's pretty thick wooded. Dozed ad hydro seed.

That's really good money for six acres last one I bid was five. It went for under 18k dozed and seeded.
 
What?

Well, yes, but FAR less force than a wedge. Force on hinge is greater, the closer to the hinge you get with your point of leverage.

You are putting side force to tip the tree about 5 feet up the side of the tree, probably 4' away from the hinge. This is much further away from the hinge than the wedges you may already be quite comfortable using; and they are often less than 15" away from the hinge.

A wedge works a HUGE mechanical disadvantage, and pile a lot of force onto the hinge. Not quite so bad with the long jack, and practically 1:1 with a rope tied high in the tree. Obviously, the rope gives the most mechanical leverage, but often is not necessary or practical.

Hence, this thread.

The way I understood a wedge, the pressure exerted on the hinge is inline with the fibers of wood. Lifting the rear of the tree. Not a side load as mentioned above with the equipment. Pushing on the bottom 10' of a tree is what I don't understand. When he has a telecom line and a road behind that using that thing seems risky. If I can't wedge it, I have a 27' pole or a throw bag to set ropes. Im 100% pulling trees over with a rope and backing the up with a wedge. :biggrin:Im open minded though.
 
The way I understood a wedge, the pressure exerted on the hinge is inline with the fibers of wood. Lifting the rear of the tree. Not a side load as mentioned above with the equipment. Pushing on the bottom 10' of a tree is what I don't understand. When he has a telecom line and a road behind that using that thing seems risky. If I can't wedge it, I have a 27' pole or a throw bag to set ropes. Im 100% pulling trees over with a rope and backing the up with a wedge. :biggrin:Im open minded though.

If you see the Stalpen in action it will make you a believer it has a tremendous amount of power for what it is. Watch their YouTube video it will do more than their showing. It's just super fast, if someone has trees falling in the wrong direction Forget about the rope they need to learn how to cut. I back it up with wedges on big stuff it's not like it's gonna come back, left and right shouldn't even be an option, are people cutting through their hinge? Or not raising their back cut when needed.

It shouldn't even be possible if cut right, if your tree can break in the wrong direction you need to leave more hinge.
 
Watch the vid. And I do hope its more impressive then what's depicted. Its a neat tool just don't think it will make my arsenal for now. I rarely get a place to fall a whole tree anymore. And if I do it has to count and im not going to bet a million dollar house that that things not going to slip. The video never shows the tops of the trees. The 1st tree only fell about 40 degrees? It looked like those guys were struggling to crank on that thing. What happens when the back lean is to heavy and you lock up? The picture of the tree line (on this forum) dwarfed the ones in the videos. Some of the trees had big branchs over the road. No way would I use that device I watched in the trees from that pic.:msp_sleep:
 
The way I understood a wedge, the pressure exerted on the hinge is inline with the fibers of wood. Lifting the rear of the tree. Not a side load as mentioned above with the equipment. Pushing on the bottom 10' of a tree is what I don't understand. When he has a telecom line and a road behind that using that thing seems risky. If I can't wedge it, I have a 27' pole or a throw bag to set ropes. Im 100% pulling trees over with a rope and backing the up with a wedge. :biggrin:Im open minded though.

It's all dependent on what you are familiar with.

A rope and sturdy pulling mechanism is pretty secure for sending a head leaner over, but not if the top breaks out where you are tied on. Equally sure is pushing over with a big machine. Either method goes well until something goes wrong, then...just blame the operator.

In my formative years of chainsaw use, I was completely ignorant of "the right way" to get a tree to go where I wanted it to go. PPE was completely unheard of, as were ropes, climbing equipment, or any of the tools of our trade except the chainsaw itself. A tractor with front end loader does a pretty good job of covering for those deficits, and that is all I had 25 years ago.

It seems to me that prior to really knowing what I was doing, I would drive up to a tree, start pushing and cutting on the same side, and when it went over, it was time to cut it up. No hinge, no face cut, just hack it down and send it over. That really isn't too bad a way of doing now, either. There is little risk of barber chair when you cut them down that way. The hinge, however, is not as strong.
 
My boss in Oregon would lay out everyone of those trees in the pic no problem. He's been falling old growth since he was a teenager. Knowing that ol crow he'd walk down the line cutting notches on every tree, sit down to a cup of coffee then fart causing the whole line to domino at one time. We have 7 skidsteers. The 1\2 million dollar cat skid could cable everyone of those pecker poles in the pic. at one time and pull them over like they were windthrown. Ive seen a geraff style cutting head (4' circular saw) on a 400 excavder do damage back east. Two of them working side by side one cut the other had a clam bucket and loaded. pretty fast stuff but a little over kill for most jobs. Load up tear and delevery takes a long time. Maybe I will get one of those pecker pole pushers.:taped:and my ropes don't slip I'm usually through a high crotch and the end is tied a couple of feet above my notch. The rope actually pulls on the back of the trunk of the tree.
 
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