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That's kinda what I was thinking. That or a grey primer coat?
I'm not an expert at much but know that my old boss made sure that every plow truck and sander part was covered in fluid film. He called it wd40 on steroids and made me skip the can and use it in a pressurized spray gun as if i was painting a car.
 
I'm not an expert at much but know that my old boss made sure that every plow truck and sander part was covered in fluid film. He called it wd40 on steroids and made me skip the can and use it in a pressurized spray gun as if i was painting a car.
Was it a home brew? It might have had some kind of a diesel fuel/ oil mixture in it.
 
Oil, or you could paint it, but I would use oil
I just did an old Mcculloch 250 bar which looked pretty terrible when I got it by using a wire wheel on an angle grinder to really clean up and then spraying with "fish oil" auto anti rust cavity type spray, where I spray on and then immediately rub it down with a rag. This provides a good barrier and then I just wipe over with bar oil after each usage. On these old bars I personally like the more natural look this provides than painting. This is before and after - bar was worse than the picture shows initially but came up very well with a bit of tedious work on the grinder.

 
That's what I will do then, remove the rust with electrolesis (see how well that works) touch up where needed and then put it in my oven and heat up to around 150-200F real quick then wipe the whole thing down with oil. Any suggestions on the oil I should use?
 
That's what I will do then, remove the rust with electrolesis (see how well that works) touch up where needed and then put it in my oven and heat up to around 150-200F real quick then wipe the whole thing down with oil. Any suggestions on the oil I should use?
Don't really matter, anything will work, like motor oil or even transmission fluid, idk about like cooking oil tho
 
So I got the XL-700 in. So one of the threaded Stud inserts looks like it's not seated properly, how do I back this in and out?
 

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Can't help you on the stud but can we get pictures of the saw? Carolina blue paint I believe right?
 
I have a starter assembly and fuel cap in the mail right now, also have some screws that are missing on the way too, I'm not 100% sure but the saw feels kinda easy to turn with my hand. Is that normal?
 

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Nice looking saw. I like the inboard clutch. Do you have a compression tester. Hows the p/c look?
 
Looks relatively decent to me, I don't have a compression testor yet. I'll snap a photo of the p/c for you. I'm about to try and start this guy up for the first time since I got it.
 

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Here are the pics of the cylinder and piston
 

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I have a starter assembly and fuel cap in the mail right now, also have some screws that are missing on the way too, I'm not 100% sure but the saw feels kinda easy to turn with my hand. Is that normal?
I'm not saying it is or is not low on compression but it's usually easier to turn them over by hand because it gives it more time to leak compression past the rings.
 
One thing I regret doing when I was just beginning to fix up old saws, was clean the carbon build up on the exhaust area. I definitely have a few "carbon scores" if you will from not cleaning up the old crappy oil ratios they ran back then. Luckily I joined this site. Those old resins can be cleaned up nicely but need to go.
 
One thing I regret doing when I was just beginning to fix up old saws, was clean the carbon build up on the exhaust area. I definitely have a few "carbon scores" if you will from not cleaning up the old crappy oil ratios they ran back then. Luckily I joined this site. Those old resins can be cleaned up nicely but need to go.

Well I will need y'all to enlighten me on how to do this.
 
So I tried to start the C-5 today, and I'm having a fuel delivery problem from the carburetor, I replaced all of the soft parts. Any ideas.
 
I have a hardened fuel line on the carb side, I don't think that is the problem though because I know fuel is getting into the carb, I plan to replace it though.
 
Did you make sure that your gaskets are in the correct order, the pumping diaphragm goes on top of the diaphragm gasket, then the top plate covers them up, also make sure that the hook on the diaphragm is hooked on the metering lever.
As far as the carbon cleaning it's best if you can take the jug off, then use a toothbrush and some carb cleaner to remove any excess carbon coking. If it's really stuck on there you can use a flat blade screwdriver to scrape it off and then use a tooth brush and carb cleaner
 
The ipl for that saw should have a breakdown on the carburetor gaskets and everything I'd take a look at it first.
 

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