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So I just won this saw on eBay.
 

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I took a husqvarna l65 apart and found it to need too much and decided to sell the cylinder and piston. A guy asked me the cylinder fitting and "065" husqvarna. I'm assuming he means the older non chain brake model. So it should work. Can anyone please tell me for sure? I just don't want to steer someone in the wrong direction. Thanks
0d6482aa15000ff757e5b7c2b47f9cbb.png



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I took a husqvarna l65 apart and found it to need too much and decided to sell the cylinder and piston. A guy asked me the cylinder fitting and "065" husqvarna. I'm assuming he means the older non chain brake model. So it should work. Can anyone please tell me for sure? I just don't want to steer someone in the wrong direction. Thanks
0d6482aa15000ff757e5b7c2b47f9cbb.png



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That I can't tell you, maybe you could get an ipl for both saws from the beg for manuals thread and see if they are the same part number
ADLM
 
That I can't tell you, maybe you could get an ipl for both saws from the beg for manuals thread and see if they are the same part number
ADLM
When I looked at acres I didn't even see a "065" listed as a model, there was only an L65, so why would he not have it?
 
Yes, 77cc IIRC. Should have points. Wico or Phelon magneto and Walbro SDC.
I've tried to find information on this type of ignition but there just isn't much out there that is easily relatable to chainsaws. But I might go ahead and just install a Nova II ignition module anyway just to make it start more efficiently.
 
Anyone have any suggestions on what I should put on an old solid nosed bar to prevent rust after I remove the current rust using electrolysis?
 
If there the same as a super xl i got you covered as far as the dogs are concerned. I bet when the saw died it whacked the starter dogs good and hard. On those type of starters i always pull out the rope 6 inches or so that way when i kill it it just pulls in the rope.
Thers a guy on youtube (the chainsaw guy) he always pulls the cord out a bit before turning off. I always wondered why. Good to know.
 
Yeah but the primer will eventually wear off, allowing rust in the future. What would be ideal is if you could put the bar in the oven and heat it up then you could dip it in oil to draw the oil into the metal preventing further rusting then keep the bar oiled every so often from that point on it will be good, but just wiping some oil on the surface is better than nothing
ADLM
 
Yeah but the primer will eventually wear off, allowing rust in the future. What would be ideal is if you could put the bar in the oven and heat it up then you could dip it in oil to draw the oil into the metal preventing further rusting then keep the bar oiled every so often from that point on it will be good, but just wiping some oil on the surface is better than nothing
ADLM
How hot are we talking I would hate to mess up its temper (if it's tempered) and how evenly would it need to be applied? Would I need to dip it?
 
Just warm enough that the oil doesn't just sit on the surface 150 to 200 degrees. The colder the metal the denser it becomes, your just trying to warm it up to the point where it will accept the oil a little better. I've never actually oil treated a bar before but I have oil treated plenty of other stuff
 

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