Vintage Chainsaw Collectors Lounge

[Kensie1988]

The only thing I would keep in mind is the old Mac 250's didn't have a ton of grunt, so if your going that big you will probably want a sprocket nosed bar to keep your chain speed up, as well as a full skip sequence chain.

 

[Kensie1988]

@brandonstc6 remember your 261 with the bad piston? Yo might want to read this.

 

[brandonstc6]

@brandonstc6 remember your 261 with the bad piston? Yo might want to read this.
View attachment 590024

Thanks, I just found that on Facebook.


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[Kensie1988]

Thanks, I just found that on Facebook.


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Haha yep just saw your post.

 

[LonestarStihl]

Sounds like something Stihl should pay for

 

[brandonstc6]

Haha yep just saw your post.

If I would have known that earlier, I would have bought my oem piston from the dealer. I just hope the new one is the revised one.


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[Kensie1988]

If it was new and under warranty, but I think the Saw was second hand and the problem has been fixed in later models.

 

[astnmacgto]

Hmm, got a dilemma on my hands. Since I can't find a .404 .058 chain in the right dl count easily, I am switching sprockets to 3/8. I ultimately want to get a 30"+ bar for the Mac 250 most likely in .050 3/8. Would I be better off abandoning the hard nose .058 bar and keeping all of my large saws to .050? I really don't want to get invested with two rolls of different gauged chain especially when I won't use the Mac a whole lot. Thoughts? The used/new Windsor bars I have been looking at on ebay seem very reasonably priced at around $40 for a 20''.

I have 3/8 .058 gauge chain at home brand new Oregon full chisel you can have as much as you need for whatever price per link I paid for it find out what link count you need and I will spin you a loop. I will have to double-check but I believe I have $0.19 / Drive Link

 

[LonestarStihl]

Even outside of warranty if it's something like that and it's a well known issue it should be covered by the manufacturer. Maybe that's just my opinion though

 

[Mac&Homelite]

I have 3/8 .058 gauge chain at home brand new Oregon full chisel you can have as much as you need for whatever price per link I paid for it find out what link count you need and I will spin you a loop. I will have to double-check but I believe I have $0.19 / Drive Link

Thank you for the kind offer, but I'm secretly trying to get into the chain production anyway. I am just trying to limit the amount of chain I run. Going to work on the bar conversion today and if that works like I think it will, I will most likely buy a new/used .050 bar for it and abandoned the .058.

 

[brandonstc6]

Even outside of warranty if it's something like that and it's a well known issue it should be covered by the manufacturer. Maybe that's just my opinion though

I would agree with that!


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[brandonstc6]

It took about 50 pulls to get my non pro 026 started today. I should have brought a Mac. It did run good once I got it started. I also now need a new oil cap.


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[brandonstc6]

The guy was using a electric recriprocating saw before I brought my chainsaw.


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[s sidewall]

Sounded like ya might have been better off using that reciprocating saw.

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[Mac&Homelite]

Well after checking and goofing around this afternoon. I settled on converting the Mac 250 to .050 3/8 for simplicity since that is what the other large saws I have run currently. I was very surprised after devising a bar spacer out of some spring for the stihl style mount that it not only fits perfectly, but the adjustment screw for the bar, lines up perfectly and is the same exact size! Oiler hole is too high, but that will be easy enough to fix. Getting closer to wrangling up all the parts. Next up is the carb kit since it still won't run on it's own.

 

[happysaws]

I've run into a little problem...
I have a Montgomery Wards 5.0 (rebadged Remington PL-55) that runs great. After cutting with it, the oil tank fills up with fuel and fuel leaks out onto the workbench.

My first thought was the auto oiler. Well, I fixed (disabled) that, so that fuel from the cylinder can no longer make its way into the oil tank.

My second thought was a bad tank gasket. But, the tank is welded shut.

Any other thoughts?

 

[95custmz]

That's a strange situation. Have you verified that the fuel lines are routed correctly. How did you disable the auto oiler? Not to change topics, but I've got a Poulan 306A that runs great. Only problem is that after I fill fuel tank and start it up, I've got fuel spraying out the top of the fuel cap. Does that sound like a bad tank vent (duckbill)?

 

[Mac&Homelite]

I've run into a little problem...
I have a Montgomery Wards 5.0 (rebadged Remington PL-55) that runs great. After cutting with it, the oil tank fills up with fuel and fuel leaks out onto the workbench.

My first thought was the auto oiler. Well, I fixed (disabled) that, so that fuel from the cylinder can no longer make its way into the oil tank.

My second thought was a bad tank gasket. But, the tank is welded shut.

Any other thoughts?

Yeah, all I can think of is some wrongly routed lines which I would be find to be odd. Any corrosion anywhere on the saw? Only other thing I can think of is some pinhole somewhere. They are pretty hard to find, as I just learned with the Mac 250.

 

[Mac&Homelite]

That's a strange situation. Have you verified that the fuel lines are routed correctly. How did you disable the auto oiler? Not to change topics, but I've got a Poulan 306A that runs great. Only problem is that after I fill fuel tank and start it up, I've got fuel spraying out the top of the fuel cap. Does that sound like a bad tank vent (duckbill)?

Yep, my Craftsman 2.3 did the same thing to me before I figured it out. Pull the cap and see if there is anything left of the duckbill inside of the cap. They usually all turn to mush after a while. I have yet to run into any duckbill valve original to any saw (regardless of use) that hasn't disintegrated over the ages.

 

[happysaws]

No possible way for the lines to be routed incorrectly, as the fuel line is internal (goes thru the manifold).

The auto oiler lets pressure from the combustion chamber into the oil tank by way of a check valve, two fittings and a metal tube. I removed the check valve and metal tube, and plugged the two fittings.

I don't think it's a pinhole because it'll only do it after running...?