Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Mine was really funny though. It had some spark, but wouldn't run well, or at all when it got warm. So i got some new points, condenser, ect. but it still wouldn't run. Changed out the coil and bam! Great big blue spark and fired up right away. I was never able to figure out a way to test it to see if it was faulty other than switching it out. Autopsy showed that there were some cracks in the plastic part of the coil underneath the ferrite cores.

That is really unusual. It will probably be a little while before I get to it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Been a long time since I've got to do any work on a saw but tonight in going to pop a couple tank gaskets in. Pm700 and pm10-10
That's a good thing not having to fix a saw, bad thing is it quits while you are cutting.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
 
So I was out practicing with my SP125 for some upcoming events; let me tell ya it's an absolute best, but when it's tipped on its side like when felling a tree, it idles really fast and runs lean. When revved up while on its side it does not run lean... Does this sound like a seal/air leak?
 
Haven't had a problem with the oil or gas caps, constantly having to set the carb, run great one day, next time bogging out, too rich or too lean. I make sure I take a tool to adjust the carb when I grab it up. Some days it just won't start period.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
 
Haven't had a problem with the oil or gas caps, constantly having to set the carb, run great one day, next time bogging out, too rich or too lean. I make sure I take a tool to adjust the carb when I grab it up. Some days it just won't start period.

Steve Sidwell, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Out of all the saws you have, you chose to take that one? You must not have cad very bad.
 
I like using Aero Kroil, the oil that creeps. LOL
I think the test results from least effective to most effective on penetrating oils are Wd-40, PB blaster, liquid wrench, then kroil being the best but probably more expensive. I think I read that acetone and ATF mix is even better than kroil but is so strong it eats away at paint and rubber and plastic. I use wd40 for things like door hinges that squeak or small jobs. I use mostly PB blaster for other jobs and when things look real bad out comes the liquid wrench. Living in the rust belt I should try Kroil but haven't yet.
 
Back
Top