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Do any of you know of an epoxy or similar product (something similar to JB Weld) that will withstand chainsaw exhaust temperatures, say around 800°F or so?

JB Weld only works up to 550°F...

The back surface of the muffler on my Husky 51 wore out so I fabricated a steel plate approx. 1/8 inch thick, and used standard JB Weld to attach to the muffler, let it dry and then bolted the muffler back on the saw; lasted 2 years or so (I do 15+ cords a year); just last month I needed to replace the muffler bracket so in to the pro shop I went; shop owner couldn't believe the JB Weld held up that long.
 
The back surface of the muffler on my Husky 51 wore out so I fabricated a steel plate approx. 1/8 inch thick, and used standard JB Weld to attach to the muffler, let it dry and then bolted the muffler back on the saw; lasted 2 years or so (I do 15+ cords a year); just last month I needed to replace the muffler bracket so in to the pro shop I went; shop owner couldn't believe the JB Weld held up that long.
I see you're from WI, what part?
I'm about a half hour east of Madison...
 
I guess the carburetor in the dishwasher wasn’t such a great idea, but I think it will be fine after a quick rinsing with carburetor cleaner
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The back surface of the muffler on my Husky 51 wore out so I fabricated a steel plate approx. 1/8 inch thick, and used standard JB Weld to attach to the muffler, let it dry and then bolted the muffler back on the saw; lasted 2 years or so (I do 15+ cords a year); just last month I needed to replace the muffler bracket so in to the pro shop I went; shop owner couldn't believe the JB Weld held up that long.
Johnny, was it the standard JB Weld or a high temperature ? Was there a muffler gasket on your Husqvarna 51 ?
 
Today is a good day. One more day at school for my last final which should be pretty easy considering it is basically over a shop class. Then it is a night drive back home to work on saws! Got lots of goodies waiting, hopefully I will have some pics up on Thursday or Friday. Can't wait to use my new Stihl tach I ordered. Anyone other updates guys? Been pretty quiet lately.
 
Today is a good day. One more day at school for my last final which should be pretty easy considering it is basically over a shop class. Then it is a night drive back home to work on saws! Got lots of goodies waiting, hopefully I will have some pics up on Thursday or Friday. Can't wait to use my new Stihl tach I ordered. Anyone other updates guys? Been pretty quiet lately.
I'm working on my coworkers 041 Super... Crank seals should be here in a few days.

Also bought a decompression-release equipped head for the West Bend 820.

Oh, I also bought a Metal carb cover for my Stihl 07.

One more thing, ordered an operators manual for the Remington Super 660G

Been doing LOTS of chainsaw Christmas shopping, not much of anything else.
 
Do any of you guys know the seal dimensions for a Power products AH-47 engine? I want to order some and make sure they are right before I destroy the old ones, in case I can't get them.

20171007_160107.jpg
 
I'm thuroughly stumped.

Working on my Homelite XL-870, and I can't get it to run right. Compression is very strong, and there's no scoring on the piston.

It starts up without priming in usually less than 5 pulls. At first, when idling, it runs extremely rich, almost to the point of flooding. But, when it gets up to full speed, it seems to run lean on the high side, and then it won't idle all the way down.

If I shut it off while it won't idle down, and then immediately restart it, it's back to running incredibly rich on the low side. The kicker is, I have the low speed screw turned in tight. If I open up the low screw at all, the saw floods out and is very difficult to restart.

Where would you start?

I plan on going through the saw anyways, but I am curious to know what you guys think the problem may be.

Edit: I had the saw running about 20 minutes ago, and just went back out to it to find the carb box FULL of gas. That leads me to believe the inlet lever is messed up... Or?
 
I'm thuroughly stumped.

Working on my Homelite XL-870, and I can't get it to run right. Compression is very strong, and there's no scoring on the piston.

It starts up without priming in usually less than 5 pulls. At first, when idling, it runs extremely rich, almost to the point of flooding. But, when it gets up to full speed, it seems to run lean on the high side, and then it won't idle all the way down.

If I shut it off while it won't idle down, and then immediately restart it, it's back to running incredibly rich on the low side. The kicker is, I have the low speed screw turned in tight. If I open up the low screw at all, the saw floods out and is very difficult to restart.

Where would you start?

I plan on going through the saw anyways, but I am curious to know what you guys think the problem may be.

Edit: I had the saw running about 20 minutes ago, and just went back out to it to find the carb box FULL of gas. That leads me to believe the inlet lever is messed up... Or?

I also think your carburetor is worn out and getting too much gas, either a bad seat or a worn seat for the adjustment needle on the low side.


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I also think your carburetor is worn out and getting too much gas, either a bad seat or a worn seat for the adjustment needle on the low side.


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Could it be just a chunk of goo under the adjustment screw? The saw seems too nice to have a worn out carb...
 
Could it be just a chunk of goo under the adjustment screw? The saw seems too nice to have a worn out carb...

Could be. I have seen a super nice Mac super pro 60 that wouldn’t stop flooding, replaced carburetor with NOS and no more problems


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Could be. I have seen a super nice Mac super pro 60 that wouldn’t stop flooding, replaced carburetor with NOS and no more problems


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I don't think I'll be able to find a NOS carb for an XL870...

Weird thing is, once I give it revs, it runs lean on the low side... So its not getting too much gas all the time.

I wonder if the internal governor is malfunctioning...?
 

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