Wal Mart "Super Tech" 2 stroke oil.

[tdi-rick]

I googled this and got the following from jay_merrill on iboats.com :
Walmart 2 cycle oil

August 29th, 2009 07:35 PM #4
Vice Admiral jay_merrill

Default Re: Walmart 2 cycle oil


[snip]

If you care to read one of my posts above it says 'Specialty Oil' in Houston, (a private label blender that's part of Shell) but that MSDS is dated '06 and may not be relevant for Canada http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/21189_2.pdf

 

[tallguys]

For your information, CTC Motomaster oil is a very fine product... Accordingly, from my experience, I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to question it's quality.

I'm happy for you. From my observations (family members kept using Motomaster oil with varying results) it was only OK... and just barely. I never understood why someone would spend the extra $$ on a Stihl or any other higher quality item, then try and save pennies on the oil for it. The problem with house brands, I believe is that today its made by one manufacturer and tomorrow could be another. Take that for what its worth.

I'm not a one brand name junkie and look for deals as much as the next guy, but saving $0.50 a bottle when you invested many hundreds into a quality tool makes no sense to me, IMHO.
Not knocking Canadian Tire, I've got many of their screwdrivers, socket sets and wrenches. I just consider their oil inferior. Thats just my opinion and, like my belly button, I have and most everyone has one too.

Cheers!

 

[cheeves]

I was taught when I was young to pick a good oil, and stick with it. At least on the brand, if I run out I don't use another brand of oil, and I wont use someone else's gas. I use my gas, and oil mix evry time. And the same oil. Something like that walmart brand you will never know 100 percent, of what you are getting. The fact that was mentioned of chaging of oil company hand's already, would make me stay very clear of it. If it was from a reputable maker for a long period of time, might be different.

You know I've used Wally oil for a long time and never had a problem with it. The best chainsaw mechanic in the area has used it for years. But I was brought up like Normzilla and after thinking about it I'm going with the Husqvarna generic for break ins and the Poulan Synthetic, which is made by Spectrum, who makes the Husqvarna oils. I'm almost out of Amsoil and Wally anyway.

 

[tdi-rick]

.....after a cup of coffee

if anyone does indeed decide to use this oil for whatever reason. at least look for the standards if marked on the back of the bottle. have not held one of that brand in my hand.

and don't mix more pre-mix oil in....thinking that it will 'lube' better. it has the opposite effect.

example: more pre-mix oil = less gasoline in the mix. therefore Leaner.

considering that ...... if you decide to run 40:1 (more oil) than factory recommended 50:1 .....please realize what you are doing.

many people make a living working on engines and like the business.

Oh dear, this has been discussed ad nauseum on here.

More oil means more oil.

Saw carbies have these amazing little adjustments on the side of them that enable you to tune the engine for varying atmospheric conditions and change in elevations.

Lo and behold, they can also adjust (minutely) for the difference between 50:1 and 40:1 or 32:1 if one so desires, and trust me, the difference in adjustment between 50 and 40:1 with the same oil is small to nothing.
This is also ignoring the fact that oil burns

If a saw is four stroking out of the cut and even at the beginning of the cut then cleans up to a true two stroke sound in the cut, anyone will be fine at whatever mix ratio they choose.

There will be more differences between using a 7.5cSt @ 100*C oil vs a 15 or 17cSt oil at the same mix ratio, or a low flash point oil and high flash point oil.

Bottom line is that saw manufacturers recommend a range of ratios, eg Dolmar says 50:1 with their oil or 40:1 with another brand, Husky recommends 50:1 with their XP oil or 30:1 with saws over 90cc, which also blows away the argument that an oil is designed to be used at one mix ratio only too.

If a saw is tuned correctly with a particular mix ratio it's correct, not lean, regardless of the mix ratio.

 

[J.W Younger]

You seem knowledgable so I'll ask, does oil ratio affect knock index, we all wanna know but are afraid to ask.

 

[tdi-rick]

You seem knowledgable so I'll ask, does oil ratio affect knock index, we all wanna know but are afraid to ask.

It does, but saws run such low compression ratios (relatively speaking) it wouldn't matter.

Put it this way, some 100cc air cooled kart engines run up to 21,000RPM at the end of the straight, (think of a saw in the cut) put out well in excess of 30HP and use mix ratios around the 18:1 mark with 102 RON fuel and around a 9cc chamber.

 

[J.W Younger]

It does, but saws run such low compression ratios (relatively speaking) it wouldn't matter.

Put it this way, some 100cc air cooled kart engines run up to 21,000RPM at the end of the straight, (think of a saw in the cut) put out well in excess of 30HP and use mix ratios around the 18:1 mark with 102 RON fuel and around a 9cc chamber.

Along the same lines, cranking compression of say 70-150 rpm yeilds say 175lbs compression whereas running compression of say 11k may be less/or more (if you factor in exh scavengeing)
can detonation ever be a factor to consider with altering port timing and squish adjustments.
What about ign timing?

 

[tdi-rick]

TW and a few of us had a long discussion on squish and detonation, etc. once a long time back.

TW reckoned he's never seen any evidence of detonation on a saw with a stock chamber, the c/r is just too low.
Bottom line is that tightening up the squish to the minimum reduces the chance of detonation (according to Bell it stops the end gasses in the chamber detonating, then that flame front colliding with the plug ignited charge) but unless running a two piece head saws are running such 'loose' chambers most reckon you'd have to go over 200psi to start to have a problem.

I know most everyone starts advancing the timing and yes, you can have an issue if you go too far.
IMO as you go up in c/r you need to start pulling spark out, but there are so many variables, eg chamber and plug location, plug type, etc.


I've 'acquired' Blairs second book recently but haven't dome much more than have a quick scroll through it, but Terry Syd has had a reasonable read in the last couple of weeks and has some interesting observations here http://www.arboristsite.com/saw-building-101/107976-5.htm#post3188497

Terry mentioned some interesting things he observed with his little strato saw, (and I can't find the post) along the lines of the piston crown was showing rich but the plug said lean.
He blocked off the air injection for the carby to direct more air across the engine and the plug colour changed to reflect what he saw on the piston.

Now that was interesting IMO.

 

[J.W Younger]

Thanks from and old time 4-stroke hotrodder whos still in the baby steps 2-stroke stage.

 

[NORMZILLA44]

Tallguys, good point on the savings end. cheeves, good stuff too! The way I see it The top saw companie's have some of the best engineering, and technology in the world. They are building pro saw's for the most demanding applications. I would think the same has come of there oil. Alot is on the line if you make, and sell shiat, then your'e reputation would be worthless. Tdirick great point on adjustment, and the 4cylcing never seen a saw blown up using that method. The one's my friend's blew up were without a tach, and pushed passed the 4cycle. What I have learned in many yer's of two strokes, over mixing will leave carbon pocket's over time, as will conventional non sythetic. Though a slower death it will come via scoring.

 

[DSS]

Even the most expensive oil is a hell of a lot cheaper than a piston and/or a jug.

My two cents.

 

[one.man.band]

on oil/gas ratio......

in my experience, it only carboned up everything quicker. carbon retains heat and raises comp ratio. this makes motor run hotter than need be. so i stopped fooling around with different ratios. too expensive for me. so after paying tuition, i mixed very accurately. and began checking plug color regularly for tune.

i have never heard any of my chainsaws over the years ping... and no detonated/holed pistons and/or blown plugs. but my ears are bad.

personally, i just don't see the purpose experimenting with ratios any longer.

 

[craig71]

The super tech makes its debut today in the stihl 480, it's raining here today, effects from hurricane "Ophelia" passing to our south, looks like 3 days of crap weather , oh well the show must go on. Turned the big 40 on saturday. I definitely feel older this morning,lol. Thanks for the replies everyone, lots of knowledge here about everything related to the woods/saws and good real world experiences, continues to be my favorite site on the internet. cheers

 

[Aaron441]

What difference does it make who bottles a certain oil? Just because Castrol might bottle Ultra oil, does not mean that Castrol oil and Ultra are the same. Pepsi and Mountain Dew are bottled in the same factory too. It doesn't make them the same.

 

[Schipp]

so...

.....after a cup of coffee

if anyone does indeed decide to use this oil for whatever reason. at least look for the standards if marked on the back of the bottle. have not held one of that brand in my hand.

and don't mix more pre-mix oil in....thinking that it will 'lube' better. it has the opposite effect.

example: more pre-mix oil = less gasoline in the mix. therefore Leaner.

considering that ...... if you decide to run 40:1 (more oil) than factory recommended 50:1 .....please realize what you are doing.

many people make a living working on engines and like the business.

"...sooo..
...sooo.....hummm sooo...when sum guys will use less gas then is called fer in the ratio...which means more oil...so that they can see more smoke...which tells them they r gittin more lubrications (in their eyes)...that thats not neccisarily(sp) true...?:msp_confused:
Schipp