Walbro HD199 Fix

[tree monkey]

lol
you guys crack me up


so far your off base
standing on a ice cube

keep guessing


the main reason i don't share what i know is because i paid for my schooling.
i went to school.
the same as any of you can do.


i'll do a video of how i fix the 199 carb when i get the chance

 

[LowVolt]

lol
you guys crack me up


so far your off base
standing on a ice cube

keep guessing


the main reason i don't share what i know is because i paid for my schooling.
i went to school.
the same as any of you can do.


i'll do a video of how i fix the 199 carb when i get the chance

Screw that man, keep that locked in the vault! Like it has been said before, you don't have to reveal all your tricks!

 

[Justsaws]

lol
you guys crack me up


so far your off base
standing on a ice cube

keep guessing


the main reason i don't share what i know is because i paid for my schooling.
i went to school.
the same as any of you can do.


i'll do a video of how i fix the 199 carb when i get the chance

NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, just raise your price. These saws are quickly fading into obscurity, soon the knowledge will be Greek fire legendary.

 

[wcorey]

the main reason i don't share what i know is because i paid for my schooling.
i went to school.
the same as any of you can do.

I don't blame you one bit for not sharing your hard earned knowledge, especially to the
undeserving unwashed like me.
Have gotten quite a few laughs at the drama it's stirred up too.

I'm only a (serious) hobbyist at this chainsaw thing and just spend money on it rather than make it,
wouldn't make much practical sense for me to use resources better used elsewhere to get schooled on it.
This forum is school, assuming you can sift through the bs...

For me it's simply a challenge to figure this thing out but probably a waste of time too, since I won't be fixing lot's of them.
Time that would be better spent on a cylinder with grinder in hand or out cutting wood.
Though still better than starring at the tv I guess...

Just pizzes me off being defeated by such a seemingly simple device.

'Specially with you laughing in the backround...:msp_tongue:

i'll do a video of how i fix the 199 carb when i get the chance

As much as I'd like to get it over with and move on, at this point I'd prefer
to see more of your cryptic hints.
Not only is the challenge fun but then I can pretend I would've eventually
figured it out for myself and can retain a small bit of self esteem.

 

[tree monkey]

years ago i bought a 1989 rm 125 used. after i bought it ,freinds asked why i get a money pit of a bike. i asked why it was a money pit. because all thay do is score pistons. sure enough with in a weak it scored.bored it , new piston , rejetted it. ran good for 1 bay and it scored again. called a dealer. he said to change the carb. well i rather fix the problem then to replace parts. so i buy a huge main jet , free the piston rings and hone the cylinder. same thing. it should have been so rich that it shoud bearly run. but it was lean. it took me awile but i found that the nut that holds the bowl to the body was to tight to the bowl and would not let fuel to the main jet. i put a releaf in the bowl and the problem was fixed. best bike i ever had.


the 199's is the same kind of dumb thing, it's right there in plain site, but you can't see it.

but you can feel it

 

[Eccentric]

years ago i bought a 1989 rm 125 used. after i bought it ,freinds asked why i get a money pit of a bike. i asked why it was a money pit. because all thay do is score pistons. sure enough with in a weak it scored.bored it , new piston , rejetted it. ran good for 1 bay and it scored again. called a dealer. he said to change the carb. well i rather fix the problem then to replace parts. so i buy a huge main jet , free the piston rings and hone the cylinder. same thing. it should have been so rich that it shoud bearly run. but it was lean. it took me awile but i found that the nut that holds the bowl to the body was to tight to the bowl and would not let fuel to the main jet. i put a releaf in the bowl and the problem was fixed. best bike i ever had.


the 199's is the same kind of dumb thing, it's right there in plain site, but you can't see it.

but you can feel it

Scott do you think it's the same issue with the HDA164?

 

[parrisw]

I went to school too, I teach people things all the time, no I'm never worried about being out of a job because I taught someone some of my hard earned knowledge. To each his own.

 

[tree monkey]

I went to school too, I teach people things all the time, no I'm never worried about being out of a job because I taught someone some of my hard earned knowledge. To each his own.

lol
well look who it is
you ready to race yet?
put your mony where your mouth is. i'll meet you half way

 

[tree monkey]

Scott do you think it's the same issue with the HDA164?

i think i have a 164 that this fix did not fix. i have not had time to look into it further

 

[wcorey]

For some reason, the impulse port on my carb doesn't line up with the impulse hole on my intake boot.

From my experience so far, the problem or lack of it, follows only the carb (body) from one saw to the next.
The impulse holes are consistently sized/placed in all of mine so that would seem to indicate this isn't the issue.

If 'the saw' has 'poor impulse', then it would appear to be just a matter of getting
adequate and/or consistent fuel delivery past the metering needle.

I can see that causing the variable lean at wot condition I sometimes experience but
I also can get an overly rich condition that the metering side should normally control.
Every carb I've disassembled is full of fuel on both sides...

I've messed with the pop off pressure, which I have been very suspicious of, but with no favorable results.
To me it has seemed more like a metering side issue than impulse side.
Like some inconsistency with the vacuum on the diaphragm...

 

[parrisw]

lol
well look who it is
you ready to race yet?
put your mony where your mouth is. i'll meet you half way

Just station my opinion, about knowledge that's all.

Chainsaws are a hobby.

I'll take you on any day with what I do for a living.

 

[tree monkey]

From my experience so far, the problem or lack of it, follows only the carb (body) from one saw to the next.
The impulse holes are consistently sized/placed in all of mine so that would seem to indicate this isn't the issue.

If 'the saw' has 'poor impulse', then it would appear to be just a matter of getting
adequate and/or consistent fuel delivery past the metering needle.

I can see that causing the variable lean at wot condition I sometimes experience but
I also can get an overly rich condition that the metering side should normally control.
Every carb I've disassembled is full of fuel on both sides...

I've messed with the pop off pressure, which I have been very suspicious of, but with no favorable results.
To me it has seemed more like a metering side issue than impulse side.
Like some inconsistency with the vacuum on the diaphragm...

there is 2 problems with the carb
1- poor idle
2-and a hi side that seems to change all the time

2 is self inflected

 

[tree monkey]

Just station my opinion, about knowledge that's all.

Chainsaws are a hobby.

I'll take you on any day with what I do for a living.

cars? straight line or oval?

 

[wcorey]

I started out with two different basic problems, one on each of two saws. Both saws idled and accelerated as they should,
had started a separate thread on it because I wasn't even sure if my carbs were having the 'standard' problem or something else.


One saw was going lean at wot at random intervals, richen it up a bit then it's fine for
a few cuts or so until it goes too rich and I have to lean it out again.
Cut and repeat, back and forth...


The second one 4-stroked nicely for a couple seconds at wot, then goes lean.
Consistently every time I pull the trigger.
Didn't respond at all to high needle adj past one and a quarter turns or so out.


When I started disassembling/reassembling the carbs, I was seeing all sorts of different results,
even when I (seemingly) didn't actually change anything. I began by making very systematic alterations
but soon devolved into bouncing around from one thing to another as the cause and effects weren't making any obvious sense.

What was really annoying was that often the nature of the problems would change when I didn't change anything
and then I'd change all sorts of things and not see any change in the problems.

Sometimes got the 'classic' symptoms where it would idle fine and run well at wot but would stumble/bog getting there from idle.
Then revert back to the original symptoms...

At one point one of them was running really rich at wot and wouldn't respond to the h needle at all,
couldn't get rid of it no matter where I set the metering lever or if I swapped out all the kit type parts, including the nozzle and jet.

Finally had one running perfect, then the next day it started acting up the same way again.



Those Suzuki rm's were animals, I had a mid 80's tm 125 but it was a bit too tame.
Then got a husky wr430 (still have it) but was a little big for the tight technical stuff we mostly see around here.
Didn't learn from that and got an atk 605 but had dot knobbies on it and could do pavement to logging roads to single track.
Got old and tired of getting hurt so put on 17" street wheels and sticky race rubber on it and mostly stay on the pavement now.

 

[tree monkey]

I started out with two different basic problems, one on each of two saws. Both saws idled and accelerated as they should,
had started a separate thread on it because I wasn't even sure if my carbs were having the 'standard' problem or something else.


One saw was going lean at wot at random intervals, richen it up a bit then it's fine for
a few cuts or so until it goes too rich and I have to lean it out again.
Cut and repeat, back and forth...


The second one 4-stroked nicely for a couple seconds at wot, then goes lean.
Consistently every time I pull the trigger.
Didn't respond at all to high needle adj past one and a quarter turns or so out.


When I started disassembling/reassembling the carbs, I was seeing all sorts of different results,
even when I (seemingly) didn't actually change anything. I began by making very systematic alterations
but soon devolved into bouncing around from one thing to another as the cause and effects weren't making any obvious sense.

What was really annoying was that often the nature of the problems would change when I didn't change anything
and then I'd change all sorts of things and not see any change in the problems.

Sometimes got the 'classic' symptoms where it would idle fine and run well at wot but would stumble/bog getting there from idle.
Then revert back to the original symptoms...

At one point one of them was running really rich at wot and wouldn't respond to the h needle at all,
couldn't get rid of it no matter where I set the metering lever or if I swapped out all the kit type parts, including the nozzle and jet.

Finally had one running perfect, then the next day it started acting up the same way again.



Those Suzuki rm's were animals, I had a mid 80's tm 125 but it was a bit too tame.
Then got a husky wr430 (still have it) but was a little big for the tight technical stuff we mostly see around here.
Didn't learn from that and got an atk 605 but had dot knobbies on it and could do pavement to logging roads to single track.
Got old and tired of getting hurt so put on 17" street wheels and sticky race rubber on it and mostly stay on the pavement now.

drill a 1/8 " hole in the center of the metering cover.
set the lever level with the carb body,
you need at least 15 psi of popoff
report back with your results

 

[Mastermind]

years ago i bought a 1989 rm 125 used. after i bought it ,freinds asked why i get a money pit of a bike. i asked why it was a money pit. because all thay do is score pistons. sure enough with in a weak it scored.bored it , new piston , rejetted it. ran good for 1 bay and it scored again. called a dealer. he said to change the carb. well i rather fix the problem then to replace parts. so i buy a huge main jet , free the piston rings and hone the cylinder. same thing. it should have been so rich that it shoud bearly run. but it was lean. it took me awile but i found that the nut that holds the bowl to the body was to tight to the bowl and would not let fuel to the main jet. i put a releaf in the bowl and the problem was fixed. best bike i ever had.


the 199's is the same kind of dumb thing, it's right there in plain site, but you can't see it.

but you can feel it

I think you have given it up with this hint my friend.

 

[barneyrb]

I think you have given it up with this hint my friend.

Well, to me it ain't worth the $25 Scott charges to mess with trying to figure it out. Box it up and send 'er off to Scott are my thoughts on this one.......

 

[Mastermind]

Well, to me it ain't worth the $25 Scott charges to mess with trying to figure it out. Box it up and send 'er off to Scott are my thoughts on this one.......

I agree completely.

 

[srcarr52]

I think you have given it up with this hint my friend.

It was a very big hint. I personally never thought to check that but I haven't had any sick 199's in my hands.

It's one of those, if it was a snake... it would have bit you type of things.

 

[Jacob J.]

That's all there is to it. I think I've had him do 5 of them. I have one left as a spare for my own use.
For the record, i haven't as much as even looked at then to figure out what he did.

I don't try to figure out what the guy that's pumping out my septic tank is doing either. I'm just glad he's doing it.