Weak log Splitter

[tjbindy]

Purchased an older home built log splitter. 6.5 tecumseh Gas engine. Controls and ram from an old dozer I am told. Has not been used for the last couple of years. Engine fires, pump seems to be working. The pump is a John S Barnes pump (single stage is what I was told.) Pressure gage on inlet of the control valve shows 3000 psi. The ram moves freely both directions but does not have enough force to split wood. Owner thought it was a pump issue but I am more inclined to believe maybe the control or the ram itself are the culprit. Any help would be appreciated..

 

[Mike Van]

option 1 would be take it back for a refund, tell 'em its a p.o.s. If you can't some pics here might help. You shouldn't have 3000 psi if it's not splitting. That would be like the stall pressure.

 

[triptester]

A 6.5hp engine wil handle a 11 gpm 2-stage pump at 3000 psi or a 3 gpm single stage pump at 3000 psi. If the gauge is accurate the pump is working.
You don't mention cylinder size.

 

[Mustang71]

I experienced similar issues with my splitter. My pump coupler was slipping on the pump shaft. It would move the ram but had no pressure. New coupler and tons of power. I don't have a pressure guage on mine.

 

[tjbindy]

A 6.5hp engine wil handle a 11 gpm 2-stage pump at 3000 psi or a 3 gpm single stage pump at 3000 psi. If the gauge is accurate the pump is working.
You don't mention cylinder size.

The cylinder is 4.5" bore with a 2" piston. I noticed this morning that the inlet to the control valve is wet. I realize this is indicative of a leak; but at 3000psi I would expect to see a high pressure stream if this were really the issue. I suspect either water in the hydraulic fluid ( hydraulic fluid has "foamy" appearance on top), leak on piston seal (no fluid present on seal area where piston exits the cylinder), or blow-by in the controller sending the fluid back into the reservoir. Am I looking in the right directions?

 

[tjbindy]

Here are some pictures.....Just noticed something that may be a clue. Last ran the splitter to test it about 12 hours ago. Pressure gauge still says 3000 psi. Thinking that if there is truly 3000 psi at the inlet to the controller without the engine running; the controller should be able to move the piston. Since the piston won't move with engine off . . .. thinking the gauge is bad.

As you can tell . . .. I am all over the map on trying to figure this thing out. I bought it cheap enough that I can put some investment into it.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

Take the ram out and have a look at it. Pay close attention to the seals.

 

[jimrb]

My little JD tractor curl function did not work well after 20 years. I replaced the seals on right cylinder which helped a bunch. Bucket still wandered/uncurled and worked sort of lumpy but a big improvement. 7 months later replaced the seals on the left side. Now no more droop/uncurling and no more lumpy actions. I have a floor jack I need to replace the seals. Long post agreeing with DarkLord to take the cylinder part to inspect and replace the seals. Take pictures after you get the gland loose so you know how to put things back together. Really only one part, the piston, on my JD that I could install this way or that way. I chose the wrong way but checked with my pictures before I put it together.

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

I have a 17 tonne digger that was immobilized for months due to seals rotting away and not being able to find parts. Seals are definitely important.

 

[triptester]

The gauge should read zero when engine off and will read near zero when idling with the control valve in neutral position. The pump has a device on the end which could be a pressure control.

 

[rancher2]

I would get a liquid filled gauge and install that first before you start taking things a part to see what the actual pressure on the system is when you dead head it.That pump looks like a two stage pump. You could have water in the system that has cause issues. Pump may not be building pressure because of a stuck valve ,the relief in the control valve could be stuck. Seals in the cylinder could be bypassing. A new gauge is a start to trouble shooting what's going on with the system.

 

[dave_dj1]

I'm with the "check the cylinder seals" crowd, when I first built mine It would extend very slow and had no power. A few new seals and all is well.

 

[Jhenderson]

When a valve fails it either leaks badly or fails to function at all. Run the cyl out to the end. Pull the hose off the return port On the cylinder and try the forward function with the engine at operating speed. If fluid shoots out the open cyl port the packing is bad. If not look to the pump.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Those fittings look to be std black iron? Ie, rated for ~300psi.
Ok on suction or return, but not pressure lines.

 

[Wood Hound]

You should never use black pipe fittings,and i do not like seeing them used on the return side-you know all this pipe now comes from China?

 

[cantoo]

Yeah the gauge has to be bad, if you were truly getting 3000 lbs those black pipe fittings would have failed right away. I would do the easy and free things first. Check the oil level in the tank. Then try the next step in the oil flow path. Take the supply hose off before the valve, stick it in the oil tank and start the engine. Make sure you at least have oil flow. Make sure you hold the hose too. If you have oil flow then reconnect it, remove the supply hose on the cylinder, stick it in the oil tank, start the engine, work the valve and make sure you have oil flow thru the valve.. If that flows then do the same thing with the return line.

 

[Yarz]

Can you hear the fluid whining as it goes over the relief valve the entire time?
If not, I doubt you have 3000 psi like your gauge is reading - Another reason to be suspicious of it.

It shouldn't read full pressure until the ram is stopped (or basically stopped) like when it has reached the end of the stroke, or hit an tough/unsplittable piece. At that point, I've heard several splitters whine, telling you they're at max pressure.