wedging over trees
- Thread starter beastmaster
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I think you are already doing it correct, put a tag line in every tree. If you already limbed it out, I can't imagine coming down without putting a tag line in, you are already there. Even if it's straight as a phone pole, you are standing there on your hooks getting ready to come down, there is no reason not to put a tag line in. You brought all of your gear to the tree when you got on the job. The rope is there, it'll take less than 2 minutes from the time your groundie ties it on, till you've got it set. There is no better insurance policy, Joe.
CanopyGorilla
climber....sawyer
Once you get used to wedging you know when it is, or is not appropriate in a residential/ line clearing setting. I think every arborist or line guy should get the chance to log for a month or two. It's such good practice when you wax more pigs in one week than most people will in their career.
day late what evs...
i at least palm a wedge in every tree, unless it has obvious positive lean... even then sometimes out of habit one goes in.
hanging a line is all fine and good but, it takes fairly long time mucking about even with a big shot, longer if it needs climbed.
i don't get paid by the hour i get paid by the log, so more logs on the ground in a day the more money i make.
things to remember with wedging;
get it in as soon as there is room for it
leave enough hold wood, and this depends a lot on species, just cause its a conifer doesn't mean its got strong fibers, just like hard woods really arn't all that hard when green, whatever happens leave some wood all the way across the stump, on special circumstances or for valuable timbef you can bore the guts out, but at least keep a post on each side.
dont get carried away with beating on a wedge and forget to watch the top, beating wedges causes vibrations, those vibrations break sketchy wood, stop and look listen every couple of hits. also you can watch yer progress a bit one hit of the axe can move the top several feet in tall timber.
lastly avoid wedging dead or rotten snags, as you probably know the tops can be very brittle and like to kill dumb loggers/tree guys that knock loose
anyway i will still rope em off if they are threatening a structure, but i do it less and less now... confident-cocky-dead...
i at least palm a wedge in every tree, unless it has obvious positive lean... even then sometimes out of habit one goes in.
hanging a line is all fine and good but, it takes fairly long time mucking about even with a big shot, longer if it needs climbed.
i don't get paid by the hour i get paid by the log, so more logs on the ground in a day the more money i make.
things to remember with wedging;
get it in as soon as there is room for it
leave enough hold wood, and this depends a lot on species, just cause its a conifer doesn't mean its got strong fibers, just like hard woods really arn't all that hard when green, whatever happens leave some wood all the way across the stump, on special circumstances or for valuable timbef you can bore the guts out, but at least keep a post on each side.
dont get carried away with beating on a wedge and forget to watch the top, beating wedges causes vibrations, those vibrations break sketchy wood, stop and look listen every couple of hits. also you can watch yer progress a bit one hit of the axe can move the top several feet in tall timber.
lastly avoid wedging dead or rotten snags, as you probably know the tops can be very brittle and like to kill dumb loggers/tree guys that knock loose
anyway i will still rope em off if they are threatening a structure, but i do it less and less now... confident-cocky-dead...
RajElectric
ArboristSite Operative
I agree, tag line and wedges for every residential job. Easier than filling out an insurance claim IMHO. Rural properties can get just the wedges, depending on lean, of 'course.
DR. P. Proteus
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Are you saying the guy does in fact ingest an intoxicant and has a lot of wedges he uses instead of ropes?
The problem I have with that is it can take a lot of hammering and heavy breathing.
I was working with a guy the other day wanted to just drop one on its own lean, I was about to shoot a rope. I mentioned getting wedges at least, turned out I had to run to get the wedges.
I let him try, I knew better. The one tree I set up two pulling systems. Its still a lot of work, probably more than with wedges. You have to climb sometimes to set a rope. Still, I think its more secure to use ropes doing work around infrastructure if you know what I mean.
In fact , we were clearing a hillside next to a house, an old 25 foot free standing stone chimney, power wires, spring house...
Would have never wedged the big dead ones off the house.
My palm is good, I don't beat on things with my carpal tunnel,
By palm its logger speak for set a wedge in the kerf, just slip it in, just incase. wacking on one with yer hand isn't going to do much anyway, but a second wedge works good. Also works a sort of bobber or "needle" any movement in the stem is magnified at that wedge's head. Tree starts to go wedge starts to fall, tree wants to set back wedge will sit up a bit, or get very tight.
Worst thing about wedging is if you don't put one in, and then have to figure out how to start one, all that weight is now sitting hard on the back cut so not only are ya trying to figure out how to get a wedge started, buy yer fighting all that weight too, tongue and groove technique can work here if there is enough stem to bore into.
By palm its logger speak for set a wedge in the kerf, just slip it in, just incase. wacking on one with yer hand isn't going to do much anyway, but a second wedge works good. Also works a sort of bobber or "needle" any movement in the stem is magnified at that wedge's head. Tree starts to go wedge starts to fall, tree wants to set back wedge will sit up a bit, or get very tight.
Worst thing about wedging is if you don't put one in, and then have to figure out how to start one, all that weight is now sitting hard on the back cut so not only are ya trying to figure out how to get a wedge started, buy yer fighting all that weight too, tongue and groove technique can work here if there is enough stem to bore into.
beastmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ive often wondered when or why the tongue and grove cut could be used. I tried it once just for the novelty of it.
Come to find out the company im working for requires all trees to be roped no matter what. I've gotting pretty good shooting lines up with the bigshot.
Come to find out the company im working for requires all trees to be roped no matter what. I've gotting pretty good shooting lines up with the bigshot.
Where I have seen tongue and grove used is when a log is laying cross slope and the top needs bucked off. Just cutting the top would cause the log to roll down hill. Putting in a T&G means the skidder can grab the butt end of the log and pull breaking the T&G joint as it pulls away.
Tongue and groove works well for setting a wedge in skinny tall trees under 12 " or so. Face it, bore it, set wedge, then cut your sides, then pound till it breaks over.
t+g works but i wouldn't call it a go to.
on smaller junk back cut first start a wedg then face it up, once faced drive wedge.
takes some practice and is real easy to **** up but is marginally safer then t+g.
t+g on a downed tree I've heard that called a russian coupling, never used it though
on smaller junk back cut first start a wedg then face it up, once faced drive wedge.
takes some practice and is real easy to **** up but is marginally safer then t+g.
t+g on a downed tree I've heard that called a russian coupling, never used it though
DLEngele
It's all in the hips.
I like splitting wedges for felling poles. If the situation calls for it. Wedges are awesome. We work in the great Smoky mountains in Gatlinburg almost every year throwing huge dead hemlock and the dreaded black locust with splitting wedges. Works great on the big ones. Plastic on the little guys. A wedge can't do what a rope dose on some trees of course.
You're right on that, but if one understands what can and cannot be wedged, one can save a lot of time.
I love the Smokies. I spent a week every year there for the first 20 years of my life. I was 2 weeks old on my first visit. Now that I have kids I need to start revisiting. Beautiful place.
I love the Smokies. I spent a week every year there for the first 20 years of my life. I was 2 weeks old on my first visit. Now that I have kids I need to start revisiting. Beautiful place.
DLEngele
It's all in the hips.
Awe yeah! Best treecation ever for me. I am lucky to be able to work the places I get to.
If I have a second wedge on me I set the first in the kirf then use the second wedge to hammer it in snug. Just saves me from grabbing the hatchet or maul. Gets it more snug than hand set.
Eventually it becomes second nature to use a wedge.
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'll fill the back cut with a plastic wedge while I am cutting. If I am felling with wedges alone, I use steel wedges after the saw is out. You can get a tree to go a pretty good ways. If the hinge is solid, I completely trust it. You want your back cut and notch to be as in line as possible. Having a low or high back cut can produce a snap cut that needs broke before the hinge will roll. The problem is that its easy to keep cutting off the hinge thinking its too thick when its the mismatched cut preventing the hinge.
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