What are you building with your milled wood? merged

[IyaMan]

I made these yesterday. Ash and Walnut. I'm keeping one for myself and giving the other one to the customers for the restaurant booths.

Look nice, but are these mallets for bludgeoning a bad waitress or something?

 

[Shawn Curry]

Look nice, but are these mallets for bludgeoning a bad waitress or something?

Haha no - vandal patrons...

Actually the intended purpose is for the knockdown joinery - all the slabs can come off and the tables can come apart by knocking out a few pins and wedges.

Now what they do with it...

 

[Wiersy111]

Been busy making lumber for different projects since I started milling last year. This spring I made a bridge for atv's and utv's to cross a real nasty hole in the trail.


My son after having a little to much the night before

 

[Wiersy111]

Now I have finished my new deer stand. I spent a grand total of $65.

 

[IyaMan]

Now I have finished my new deer stand. I spent a grand total of $65.

Nice deer stand. What kind of wood?

Also, can't tell from the pics, but to prevent rot, the legs shouldn't be resting directly on the ground. A concrete block or even a broad stone will help immensely. Should be at least 3 or 4 inches above the dirt. Also, that'll help disperse the weight so it doesn't sink in much. And painting on some coal tar or other sealant onto the bottom foot or two of the leg wood will also be good, especially since the legs flair out beyond the roof line (particularly the back side where the rain run-off from the roof will fall. Though a gutter would be better maybe since this is where your door/ladder is).

Would be cool to see an interior pic too if you got any.

 

[Wiersy111]

Nice deer stand. What kind of wood?

Also, can't tell from the pics, but to prevent rot, the legs shouldn't be resting directly on the ground. A concrete block or even a broad stone will help immensely. Should be at least 3 or 4 inches above the dirt. Also, that'll help disperse the weight so it doesn't sink in much. And painting on some coal tar or other sealant onto the bottom foot or two of the leg wood will also be good, especially since the legs flair out beyond the roof line (particularly the back side where the rain run-off from the roof will fall. Though a gutter would be better maybe since this is where your door/ladder is).

Would be cool to see an interior pic too if you got any.

The framing is a large spruce that I milled late last winter. The legs are Red Oak The board and Baton siding is Basswood. The Basswood is an experiment to see how durable it will be in the elements. I am going to leave everything weather over the winter before I seal it all up, in the spring I will stain/ seal the whole works. For this fall all I plan on doing is going out tomorrow and leveling the stand by putting patio blocks under the legs. I have drip edges over all the windows and the door. I plan on putting tar on the bottom of the legs but it is to close to season right now. All of the materials for this stand were either cut by myself or scraps laying around from other projects. If I remember I will take some pics from the inside.

 

[IyaMan]

Yes, avoid putting on tar for now if you plan on hunting with it. Coal tar stinks for days or even weeks and will certainly not be attracting deer. Having oak legs exposed to weather for one winter won't have a negative effect, and putting in the blocks will be a help.

Instead of staining next spring, how about painting it camo?

 

[Wiersy111]

Yes, avoid putting on tar for now if you plan on hunting with it. Coal tar stinks for days or even weeks and will certainly not be attracting deer. Having oak legs exposed to weather for one winter won't have a negative effect, and putting in the blocks will be a help.

Instead of staining next spring, how about painting it camo?

I am hoping I can just a natural grey coloring to it and that will blend nicely into the area.

 

[pond hopper]

New foot bridge to the basement. Red oak 6x6 with 2x treads

 

[lumberjackchef]

Couple of my latest

Cedar with turquoise inlays

Pine slab sign

red oak slab sign

Sent from my N9516 using Tapatalk

 

[bobbobbobbob]

These are a pair of hand shaped Irish Oak stools that I made for a client.

 

[Wiersy111]

Here is my latest project. It's a live edge oak mantle for a close friend of mine as a wedding gift. It is cut out of a tree from his backyard that we got a little crazy one day and shot up with the big pistols. The smallest pistol was a .44 mag, then there was the .50 AE, 450 Marlin and 45-70 Govt. There was plenty of lead in the log, I was very apprehensive about milling it at first but figured I would give it a try. I was pleasantly surprised that it milled very well.

The fireplace is already finished with faux river rock so I am still figuring out how I am going to mount this heavy mantle. Right now I plan on mounting a ledger board to the fireplace and hollowing out the inside of the mantle and scribing the mantle to the rocks. Once it is complete it should look very cool just floating on the wall. The scribing is going to be a lot of time consuming work but I don't know how else to make it look good. If anyone has better ideas please let me know I am always open to suggestions, especially if it is less work!.

 

[rarefish383]

A friend had a two story staircase on an interior stone wall. It was all hand fit to the stone. Took the carpenter forever and a day, but it did look good, Joe.

 

[abbott295]

I work for a home builder; we don't normally do things like this, but we recently ( maybe about a year ago) attached a barn beam for a mantlepiece for a buyer by using long screws angled into the studs in the wall behind, counter-sunk and wood-filled. Pre-drilling the beam, of course. I can't find a picture and I don't remember if it was on brick or stacked stone. Does your faux river rock afford any weight-bearing capability? Level off the top surface, where the mantle will sit, with mortar; that could carry most of the weight.

If the faux river rock can't carry the weight, maybe an angle iron screwed into the wall to carry the mantle, then you mortise out for the angle iron so the mantle sits flush to the wall and down over the angle iron. Angle iron shorter than the mantle so the ends aren't exposed either. A 3 x 3 angle like our stone masons use for lintels. Well I see I typed "into the wall" where I meant "onto the wall", but if you remove sheetrock to attach the angle iron, you will be able to see your studs to screw them good and only need to mortise for the horizontal projection of the angle iron under the bottom of the mantle. That may be even easier.

Good luck. I am sure your mantle weighs more than that barn beam did.

abbott295

 

[Wiersy111]

As far as I can tell the is all block behind the faux stone so I am planning on using some kind of anchor bolts into the cement block.

 

[abbott295]

Hmmm, Toggle bolts would hold the angle iron on, but I don't know about the rest of the installation. I would like to see the final solution to this.

Do you have enough of that log, or another, to make corbels that could be toggle bolted into the block to put the mantle on top of?

 

[Wiersy111]

I have plenty of log left over, I could make another mantle if I wanted. Having two pieces of end grain coming out of the wall was the other idea that I am working with.

 

[Czech_Made]

Fence

 

[jrhannum]

Here's my latest; home-harvested and CSM-slabbed Claro walnut dried three years; planed using bridged router then corrected small faults with epoxy resin then many sandings and finished with Minwax Helmsman spray-on; goes in my daughter's new back-patio (down by the creek).

 

[swanny]

2 cord firewood shed. Oak base (gets concrete blocks under corners) with rest tulip poplar. Old galvanized roofing. 4 hrs to mill, 6 to build. may treat with drain oil/diesel mix after dried.