What axe do I want?

[Briar012]

Really? I've read a lot about them and quite a few reviews. Of course there's gonna be people who don't like something, but the biggest complaint I found was guys didn't like that the axe wasn't sharp when it came in, which from what I've read council doesn't even attempt to put an edge on their axes to keep costs down, which is understandable, with the exception of the velvicut line. I know it's not a wetterlings or gransfors but it's not supposed to be. SVK or anyone who has experience with the brand what are some things you don't like? I haven't really read a lot of negative about them.

 

[svk]

There are several brands stocked at the big boxes that will have similar price point and you can put your hands on it before spending money. And judging by the excellent work you did on that maul, you can work just about anything to your liking.

I will say the CT axe I used seemed to be of much better quality than the recent maul pics people have been posting. Just wanted to make sure you don't get caught up in the hype that's been flowing on here lately. FWIW I've got an older True Temper 3.5# jersey axe that's real nice and I see they are still listed for about $40 shipped.

 

[Briar012]

Thanks for the compliment svk. I've heard good things about true temper axes also. I guess I'll see what I can dig up this weekend and go from there.

 

[woodeneye]

Old true tempers in good condition is like mining gold.

 

[Philbo]

I have used a handful of different tools for smacking wedges when felling. Fiskars X7 hatchet has seen the most use recently, but only because it's small and I already have it, and I don't feel like dragging anything long through the woods. It performs ok in small to medium trees, but really doesn't have the weight or right handle shape to drive the wedges home those few times you really need it. I've also used an X27 in a pinch and it worked marginally better. Something about the shape of the poll on these that isn't really conducive to driving wedges. It seems to tear my wedges up quicker than something more substantial.

I've also used a small, short handled 3# sledge, which was ok, but not my preference.

I'm looking at one of these little guys specifically for carrying around the woods to tap wedges and drive em home. Decent weight to the head, long enough handle to get a solid swing but not get in the way hopefully. Runs about $35. Council Tool calls it a Miner's Axe - 3.5# head w/ either a 20" or 26" handle. Can't decide which length handle will be better overall...

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/419ilybPbkL._SY355_.jpg

 

[woodchuck357]

Kelly works true temper is the one to look for. There are others that use true temper in the brand name that aren't so good.

 

[Briar012]

Philbo, the miners axe is what I was leaning towards at first, but after a little more thought I need an axe geared more towards felling. I want it to be good at driving wedges and splitting wood, but I need it to be good at cutting and chopping. Plus I won't be very far from the truck so handiness isn't a huge issue.

Woodchuck, I seen true temper axes and hatchets at lowes. I'm assuming these are not the quality true temper axes? I know the grinding and price didn't reflect a quality product.

 

[woodeneye]

You're exactly right, the modern true tempers are not what they used to be nor do they have/hold any value.

 

[Briar012]

Also I've read quite a bit here and elsewhere about reshaping generic box store mauls to be good splitters. Can a cheap axe be made into a good axe, or is the steel and heat treat just not there.

 

[Briar012]

You're exactly right, the modern true tempers are not what they used to be nor do they have/hold any value.

So do they not make the Kelly works true temper axes anymore?

 

[woodeneye]

Steel must be quality, must have a deep temper line, and blade geometry are what you're after. If it lacks just one of those, it's not worth the time.

 

[woodeneye]

No more Kelly's unfortunately. At least not to my knowledge. They're valuable antiques now especially in certain patterns.

 

[Briar012]

Ok thanks Woodeneye. The Kelly Works are labeled Kelly Works True Temper right, or is there some other way to tell?

 

[woodeneye]

The main thing to to look for in old axe heads if you want to restore them is brand name (do your research), country of origin, a deep temper line for multiple resharpenings, no chips or cracks, no deeply pitted rust, and a poll that hasn't been best to death and is folding over. Will save you a lot of headaches. Boy's axes always have a following.

 

[woodeneye]

They will say Kelly on them somewhere. Sometimes it's hard to find until you clean them up so you might be taking a gamble.

 

[Briar012]

Ok Woodeneye I'll do some research. I know this is getting a little off topic, but is it ok to blast all the patina and rust off an axe then polish it, or is it better to just give it a vinegar bath? What about bluing? I do quite a bit of work on guns and have equipment and supplies to do bluing, I think a blued axe would look pretty good.

 

[Briar012]

I've done some searching I just wanna know y'all's opinions and experiences also.

 

[woodeneye]

You can blue any carbon steel, which includes axes, of course. I think it would look great done right!

 

[svk]

Also I've read quite a bit here and elsewhere about reshaping generic box store mauls to be good splitters. Can a cheap axe be made into a good axe, or is the steel and heat treat just not there.

Some can. However a few folks around here feel they can justify buying and modding cheap tools to match the performance of higher quality, proven tools and their reviews may be a little (or quite a bit) boastful to justify their time spent. Sure there are value tools out there but there's never a free lunch.

 

[woodchuck357]

I know I say it too much, but for splitting the metal and temper is not important, shape is what counts. Chopping requires good steel well forged and hardened and tempered very well and sharpened like a razor.
Any ax or maul can be reworked to make an excelent splitter. A poor quality chopper will always be a poor chopper.