What axe do I want?

[woodeneye]

Forging and tempering are all part of the same process to get the desired result. Improper temper and it's too brittle or vice versa, too malleable. Tempering is the final step in the forging process. (I'm a knife smith.)

 

[woodchuck357]

I just remembered cutting back an ax edge, splitting it, forge welding a piece of 01 between the splitts, pounding it to shape, then hardening and tempering it. It turned out pretty good and was a lot less work than starting with a block of steel. So, it depends on how much work you are willing to put into it.

 

[svk]

Tempering is the final step in the forging process. (I'm a knife smith.)

If someone disturbs the temper of a tool ie burning out the eye in a stove, can an expert re-temper it to near factory specs?

 

[svk]

Old true tempers in good condition is like mining gold.

How old? I've got several TT tools from 70's. Maul, splitting axe, brush axe, standard axe and possibly others.

 

[woodeneye]

Mostly, Ive never been able to ID an axe to a specific date, but I have a feeling it's the older ones, yet. Not sure about 70s models. If they are a popular pattern among bushcrafters, like a boys axe, they may be valuable nonetheless.

 

[woodchuck357]

The info in this blog matches my research.
http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2012/08/kelly-axe-manufacturing-guest-post-by.html
The more valuable ones are little used with original shaped cutting edges and original hafts. True Temper is a newer Kelly ax, made ftom '49 to early '80s.

 

[woodchuck357]

Forging and tempering are all part of the same process to get the desired result. Improper temper and it's too brittle or vice versa, too malleable. Tempering is the final step in the forging process. (I'm a knife smith.)

Nice to be re-educated. All these years I thought forging was heating metal untill it was softened and beating it into shape on a anvil with a hammer.

 

[woodeneye]

Haha, you're right. But tempering is an essential step directly related to the process. The metal has to cool at either a slow rate or at an induced rate anytime it reaches forging temp. What goes up must come down eventually. Those are probably better word choices. Didn't mean to step on any toes. Water under the bridge I hope!

 

[woodchuck357]

Ok Woodeneye I'll do some research. I know this is getting a little off topic, but is it ok to blast all the patina and rust off an axe then polish it, or is it better to just give it a vinegar bath? What about bluing? I do quite a bit of work on guns and have equipment and supplies to do bluing, I think a blued axe would look pretty good.

I remember seetng some axes that were blued in hardware stores when I was a kid, they were priced a lot higher than I could afford, don't remember the brand. The embossed brand was filled with gold colored paint.

 

[firebrick43]

Rust blueing is within cost at home of dang near anyone. Polish axe head to 320 grit. This is the most important step. Degrease till it's spotless. I use purple power then biol in tsp. from this point on you can not touch it, wear latex or white cotton gloves. There are several solutions for about 15$. I like brownells slow rust formula. You coat the metal in the solution and wait about 12 hours(really depends on your local humidity) It will form a fine rust. Boil in distilled water converts it to black oxide. Then you use 0000 steel wool (that's been degreased as well) to card off the velvet fuzz for lack of a better term. Repeat this at least 6 time(some modern tool steels take many more cycles). Once you start you can't stop. Letting it rust longer than what it takes to get a very fine rust cause pitting and ruins the look needing polished out and restarted. The look is a beautiful blue/black with a satin sheen like no other. This is how high end double barrel shotguns barrels that are soldered together have been blued as well as other high end custom rifles. It's 6 times as durable as hot salts blueing, maybe 20 times as heat/nitre blueing, and a thousand times as durable as cold blueing(which is quite worthless). After last rubdown with steel wool warm steel up till it uncomfortable to handle and oil generously with boil linseed oil. Wipe most off quickly(but don't rub down) and let set a day or two. Rub with a soft cloth and enjoy.

 

[svk]

Rust blueing is within cost at home of dang near anyone. Polish axe head to 320 grit. This is the most important step. Degrease till it's spotless. I use purple power then biol in tsp. from this point on you can not touch it, wear latex or white cotton gloves. There are several solutions for about 15$. I like brownells slow rust formula. You coat the metal in the solution and wait about 12 hours(really depends on your local humidity) It will form a fine rust. Boil in distilled water converts it to black oxide. Then you use 0000 steel wool (that's been degreased as well) to card off the velvet fuzz for lack of a better term. Repeat this at least 6 time(some modern tool steels take many more cycles). Once you start you can't stop. Letting it rust longer than what it takes to get a very fine rust cause pitting and ruins the look needing polished out and restarted. The look is a beautiful blue/black with a satin sheen like no other. This is how high end double barrel shotguns barrels that are soldered together have been blued as well as other high end custom rifles. It's 6 times as durable as hot salts blueing, maybe 20 times as heat/nitre blueing, and a thousand times as durable as cold blueing(which is quite worthless). After last rubdown with steel wool warm steel up till it uncomfortable to handle and oil generously with boil linseed oil. Wipe most off quickly(but don't rub down) and let set a day or two. Rub with a soft cloth and enjoy.

Having guys like you and woodeneye on here really add value to the site. Thank you!

 

[firebrick43]

Here is a picture of a shotgun top lever I did a few weeks ago.

Hard to really capture the look with a smartphone camera. It much deeper and changes appearance as you roll it in the light in real life.