What Axe do you recommend for splitting some oak ?

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I just picked up an inevitable replacement for my x27 the last time I was in town. I've banged wedges with the x27 for years, so fiskars won't replace it when it fails. This is what was available:

View attachment 1220560View attachment 1220561View attachment 1220562

No markings/model number anywhere. I searched the numbers on the tag above the barcode, but there's no specific info on this other than "splitting axe"
I understand it is the identical head, and the orange handle is only cosmetic. I have two of the all black model. My first disappeared so I bought a second. I was complaining about the first going missing and somehow it miraculously re-appeared. Mine have split about 3 cords of wood this year. I have split more with a borrowed hydraulic splitter, but that was all in one day working hard. For doing one cord, the Fiskars works faster. I was throwing the crotches and bad ones to the side for when I had the hydraulic splitter, though.
 
I had an x-25, but retired it quickly. I liked how it splits though, and stepped up to the X-27.

I am tall, and it is short. It's pretty easy for that tool to skate off a log and come straight at your feet or shins, particularly if you are fond of putting a log to be split on top of another log as a splitting base. Truly scary. A slightly missed or poorly delivered strike can do you a nasty injury. I've never had that experience with any other splitting tool.

I'd recommend the X-25 only for shorter people, in which case it is still an excellent tool.
Somewhere on this site there is a thread dedicated to that discussion.
I love my X27 & I'm 5' 8". It's easy to swing for a long spell, not much it won't split! The really tough chunks get either my 6lb or 8lb Isocore. Once in awhile, the wedges have to come out. Meanwhile, yesterday's 100lb rounds somehow are 110lbs today. So, I've ordered a Split-Fire 3265 with a log lift. I like hand splitting, but my elbow does not, all too often.
 
Got the X27, X25 and the Fiskars Iso-Core 8lb on the way.
Will give all three a try and report back. Really looking forward to it.
They were all very reasonably priced with excellent reviews.

Was also looking at the council 5lb but there were several reviews that said the handle broke. Would always prefer to support made in USA products.
May still get one and give it a try, also quite inexpensive.

Appreciate all the help.
Straight grain and most frozen wood the x27, knotty or sticky grain the iso core, I like the x25 in my porch where I keep my inside wood where I sometimes need to split some down smaller for kindling or a hotter fire . Use a chopping block to keep it off the cement. Also have a fiskars wedge I occasionally use if I get into a sticky. Makes life easier having the right tools to match the task.
 
I just picked up an inevitable replacement for my x27 the last time I was in town. I've banged wedges with the x27 for years, so fiskars won't replace it when it fails. This is what was available:

View attachment 1220560View attachment 1220561View attachment 1220562

No markings/model number anywhere. I searched the numbers on the tag above the barcode, but there's no specific info on this other than "splitting axe"
It's still an x27, just depends on the color of the handle. Same one I've been using for a few years now.
 
I'll bet that chunk in your shin came from a deflected strike that carried through the stroke until it got your leg, right?
I missed my leg two times, and quit using it entirely.
Actually, no. I had the chunk on a splitting log and when I swung the axe it went through the piece but the down stroke arc was short enough that it missed the splitting chunk and just kept going right into my leg full speed. I have a couple of boys axes and never had that happen. Got the longer one and no more problems but I won't cast shade on the X25. It works like its supposed to. Be great for kindling and bush stuff.
 
I understand it is the identical head, and the orange handle is only cosmetic. I have two of the all black model. My first disappeared so I bought a second. I was complaining about the first going missing and somehow it miraculously re-appeared. Mine have split about 3 cords of wood this year. I have split more with a borrowed hydraulic splitter, but that was all in one day working hard. For doing one cord, the Fiskars works faster. I was throwing the crotches and bad ones to the side for when I had the hydraulic splitter, though.
My X27 came all black unlike the part orange X25. Same axe, though.
 
It’s been several years but when I got my 8lb iso core I’m pretty sure it was $75. But it seems like the x27 might have been a little bit more than that! 😳 Lifetime guarantee and if it won’t bust a block then it’s time for hydraulics.
 
It’s been several years but when I got my 8lb iso core I’m pretty sure it was $75. But it seems like the x27 might have been a little bit more than that! 😳 Lifetime guarantee and if it won’t bust a block then it’s time for hydraulics.
Black Friday on Amazon, link above, has them and a coupon right now. I put one in my basket just to see the price and it ended up at $50. I have a maul and don't need one but I might still get it for that price.
 
X27 for me at 6 foot and 200lbs, but 70 years old and things are not as they were 45 years ago! the head on the X27 seems to nearly explode some of Ash here due to its profile. But another issue that has not been mentioned here is how rarely it becomes stuck in a difficult log. It can be really exhausting dealing with difficult heavy logs with an axe that takes a lot of effort to unstick!
 
I'm pushing 50 and until a few years ago, I split everything by hand. For the longest time I used an 8 lb and 6 lb maul, and a 4 lb ax (can't recall the brand). I finally broke down and bought an X27 and was absolutely shocked at how effective it was. There was literally no more need for the 4 lb ax or the 6 lb maul. If it didn't crack with 3 or 4 swings with the X27, I went straight to the 8 lb maul. I'm cutting mostly hickory and oak with some occasional locust and ash mixed in, and most of what I cut starts out around 20-22" in both length and diameter, but I get some occasional stuff that's closer to 3' across. I'm 6'2", and I never bothered with the X25. I split on the ground and not on a chopping block, so the X25 just wasn't going to work for me. I could never understand the benefit of having to pick everything up an extra time to set it on the chopping block. With that said, kindling is a different story. The X25 would be great for kindling IMHO.

A note on breaking wood handles. It's not always an over strike that causes problems. Sometimes the wood splits in such a way that it curve back under the handle causing similar damage. With a maul, if you're using a wood handle, make sure the maul uses the axe eye handles instead of the round eye like a sledge hammer does. My 8 lb maul had a round eye, and I couldn't get more than 2 seasons out of it (4 cords/season) without snapping the head off, and that was WITHOUT any over strikes or other damage from making contact with the wood. Even with the proper grain, a round eye just can't take the abuse from an 8 lb maul on the end.

The same year Fiskars released their 8 lb splitting maul, I started having issues with my rotator cuff. After about 2 hours of splitting one night, I couldn't swing a maul or sledge for the next 6 months. I picked up a used 27 ton splitter that summer and never looked back. I still split a lot (ie most of my wood) with my X27, but its very rare for me to swing a maul now. If it needs halved or quartered, and isn't very knarly, I split it with the X27. If it hasn't split after 3 or 4 accurate, well placed hits, it gets rolled to the side and split with the hydraulic machine at the end. If its trying to split, but the X27 just isn't quite enough to get the job done, and I only have 4 or 5 pieces like that, I MAY pick up an 8 lb maul to finish them with rather than mess with starting the splitter. If the round is too heavy for me to man handle onto a splitter to begin with, I use a 90cc saw with a 28" bar to noodle it into more manageable size pieces.

With my shoulder issues, I never bothered getting the ISO tool. I look forward to hearing about your impression of it compared to the other tools.
 

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