Be real careful doing this because if you mess up and take to much off the sides it will cause a free port, which is no good. Done right, this should improve the motor noticeablely.sawinredneck said:Ok, if you look at the very first picture, the four smaller holes are the transfer ports and the webs or walls between them were about .125" thick. This is where I focused mos of my attention. I ground them down to .030" thick and blended everything in matching the original angle as best I could, I was told that is critical, but you can remove about as much as you want otherwise with little chance of detremental effect. (I may get corrected on that shortly?)
Andy
blis said:they say that porting is succesfull when you have 50% of original power left :hmm3grin2orange:
but now, we want videos of that little orange beast!
So what was the deck height ? You realy should check it all saws are different. Could save you some money in the long run.sawinredneck said:Yes, the solder is to measure the distance between the top of the piston and the bottom of the cylinder. As Oldsaw stated already, I removed the base gasket on this saw to gain compression and really needed to check it, but I figured this was an all or nothing experement so it really didn't matter that much to me!
Andy
manual said:So what was the deck height ? You realy should check it all saws are different. Could save you some money in the long run.
Could break the case also.sawinredneck said:Yes I should, but I doubt I will, like I said, this thing is either going to run like a striped ape, or I am going to have a box full of "BLOWSH!TUP"!!!!!!:monkey: And I will be looking for a new P/C kit. I know this is the wrong atitude, but the way my luck with saws has been lately, I think the squish has very little to do with whether or not this saw will hold together. I am honestly amazed it started at all manual!!!:hmm3grin2orange:
Andy
blis said:they say that porting is succesfull when you have 50% of original power left :hmm3grin2orange:
manual said:Could break the case also.
I understand what you are saying.
I just thought other people following this thread my show a concern for there saws.
B_Turner said:Blis,
Are you yanking our chain when you say you are 17? Comments like this one are uncharacteristically wise for that age. Fess, up. You are just lying about your age to stay out of the army, aren't you?
Bill
sawinredneck said:Yes I should, but I doubt I will, like I said, this thing is either going to run like a striped ape, or I am going to have a box full of "BLOWSH!TUP"!!!!!!:monkey: And I will be looking for a new P/C kit. I know this is the wrong atitude, but the way my luck with saws has been lately, I think the squish has very little to do with whether or not this saw will hold together. I am honestly amazed it started at all manual!!!:hmm3grin2orange:
Andy
B_Turner said:Blis,
Are you yanking our chain when you say you are 17? Comments like this one are uncharacteristically wise for that age. Fess, up. You are just lying about your age to stay out of the army, aren't you?
Bill
sawinredneck said:I am very saw unhappy right now, so I am trying to make something from nothing and I DON'T REALLY CARE WHAT THE OUTCOME IS!!!
Andy
SWE#Kipp said:well if he know what ingredients "vargtass" is made of then he is from Finland for sure :hmm3grin2orange:
blis said:If i just knew what vargtass is.... opcorn:
SWE#Kipp said:A drink ,,, " wolf paw" made by a famous vodka company
sawinredneck said:And you are absolutely correct there manual!!!! I cannot, and will not argue with that logic!!!
NOT CHECKING THE SQUISH IS A GOOD WAY TO BLOW UP YOU"RE SAW!!!!!!!!
This is a very HICK build, and if you want it done properly take the time and do it right!!! I am very saw unhappy right now, so I am trying to make something from nothing and I DON'T REALLY CARE WHAT THE OUTCOME IS!!!
Ok, time for the wise ones to interject some wisdom now!
Andy
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