What Bubba and I did this afternoon!

[blis]

Kosken is the maker, its vodka and "lingon" A red berry don't know the english word, maybe cranberry ,,

hmmm... lingonberryvodka?? campari? carillo?

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Koskenkorva might have end the production of it, but yes it was a lingonberry vodka
very tasty if I may say ,,,,,,

 

[blis]

Koskenkorva might have end the production of it, but yes it was a lingonberry vodka
very tasty if I may say ,,,,,,

nah, i prefer plain koskenkorva, or any other vodka :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[oldsaw]

Kosken is the maker, its vodka and "lingon" A red berry don't know the english word, maybe cranberry ,,

Although a lingonberry tastes a bit like a cranberry, they are different things. We don't have them over here, however, there are some Scandinavian stores that have them imported. Used to get them in the restaurant at Ikea when I had one nearby.

Mark

 

[blis]

Although a lingonberry tastes a bit like a cranberry, they are different things. We don't have them over here, however, there are some Scandinavian stores that have them imported. Used to get them in the restaurant at Ikea when I had one nearby.

Mark

ehh, imported lingonberries??? now thats sick, luckily we have plenty of em here in forests, in 2005 i and my family picked around 500liters of em....

 

[Freakingstang]

Be real careful doing this because if you mess up and take to much off the sides it will cause a free port, which is no good. Done right, this should improve the motor noticeablely.

Careful what you are saying. A free port has to do with making the intake or exhaust port wider than the piston skirt....Definately bad that way.

Andy was referring to the lower transfers (at least of what you quote him)

edit: here it is:

Ok, if you look at the very first picture, the four smaller holes are the transfer ports and the webs or walls between them were about .125" thick. This is where I focused mos of my attention. I ground them down to .030" thick and blended everything in matching the original angle as best I could, I was told that is critical, but you can remove about as much as you want otherwise with little chance of detremental effect. (I may get corrected on that shortly?)
Andy

Andy is talking about the meat underneath the cylinder, where the air and fuel mix will enter the transfers from the crankcase. No risk of a free port here.....

Andy, if you take it back down, you can hog those lower tansfers out more. From a 2nd look, the edges of the lower transfers have not been cleaned up. Take the sides and back to the edge of the old gasket line.

Also, did you radius, or chamfer the ports when you were done playing?

 

[sawinredneck]

Yes, I radiused/bellmouthed both sides of the ports and tried to smooth everything out. I very easily could have opened up more of the insides of the ports, just didn't want to get caried away and was particularly fearfull of raising or lowering them, I don't want any more R's out of it. I studied the pics you sent, and looked at several others before I went after it. This is meant as a work saw, not a race saw so I didn't get crazy there, and my time was limited. I can easily run to Walmart and get some new dremel bits (and may) and have plenty of sealant left over to do it again.
No I didn't match the case to the ports, it was open in the center and I changed very little on the outside of the transfers, so I saw little gain in the extra time cleaning it out.
I think I will check the suish now:hmm3grin2orange: It runs MUCH better!! Still not a 262, but I think I could learn to live with it.
I have the video shot, just need to wait for mamma so she can onvert it over ( I edited it in Ulead) and I will put it up ASAP! I ran the 346 vs. the 046 in the same wood for comparison. Wasn't that impressed with the time until I watched it, it's a lot closer than I thought!!!
Andy

 

[drmiller100]

so if you remove the base gasket, you gain more compression.

but you lower the port timing also. So in theory, you should raise the ports the thickness of the base gasket to just maintain the same timing.

it is interesting that people aren't worred about the shapes of the ports. Is the pistons on saws so small you don't have to worry about hooking a ring????

What about maintaining enough meat to cover the locating pins and ends of rings?

Has anyone played with adjusting back pressure in the muffler to optimize power? I understand drilling holes in the muffler, but most other 2 strokes use the exhaust restrictions to gain significant power.

 

[sawinredneck]

OK kids, here is the video, first is the 346xp, then the Freakinized 046:

http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m134/stuff_013/?action=view&current=freakedoutredneck.flv


Andy

 

[Freakingstang]

looks and sounds like the 046 was at idle when you put it in the wood.....

 

[oldsaw]

OK kids, here is the video, first is the 346xp, then the Freakinized 046:

http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m134/stuff_013/?action=view&current=freakedoutredneck.flv


Andy

Freakin' good job there.

Mark

 

[sawinredneck]

looks and sounds like the 046 was at idle when you put it in the wood.....

I know, I know, I still haven't opened it up to it's full potential, a little scared to LOL!!!

FYI, the 046 is ONLY running around 11.5k, and this was not a fair race anyway you slice it, and not meaning to badmouth anything Freak did, it's just thats the best running saw I have other than the 192t. What video do you want to watch?
Andy

 

[Freakingstang]

I know, I know, I still haven't opened it up to it's full potential, a little scared to LOL!!!

FYI, the 046 is ONLY running around 11.5k, and this was not a fair race anyway you slice it, and not meaning to badmouth anything Freak did, it's just thats the best running saw I have other than the 192t. What video do you want to watch?
Andy

No, I meant that you set it on the log, then pulled the trigger...

Go into the wood at full R's....

11.5K??? WTH?

set it at 14K and do it again. It sounded rich for all 2 seconds but that is super rich...

Wanna see a 1+ minute long video of a stock 5100 and a 28" bar in a piece of 2 year old hickory? LOL Got it uploading now.....

 

[sawinredneck]

No, I meant that you set it on the log, then pulled the trigger...

Go into the wood at full R's....

11.5K??? WTH?

set it at 14K and do it again. It sounded rich for all 2 seconds but that is super rich...

Wanna see a 1+ minute long video of a stock 5100 and a 28" bar in a piece of 2 year old hickory? LOL Got it uploading now.....

As THall said it best "I am a firewood cutter, not a racer" I set that beast on the log and throttle it, well, because I can, that thing DOESN'T CARE!!!!

Cant wait LOL!!!!!

Both saws had used, fresh off the grinder chain, best comparison I could find. So, other than my techniuqe sucks, the 046 is too rich, how do you think the little beasty ran, and what should I change if I "feel" the need to tear into it again?
Andy

 

[sawinredneck]

so if you remove the base gasket, you gain more compression.

but you lower the port timing also. So in theory, you should raise the ports the thickness of the base gasket to just maintain the same timing.

it is interesting that people aren't worred about the shapes of the ports. Is the pistons on saws so small you don't have to worry about hooking a ring????

What about maintaining enough meat to cover the locating pins and ends of rings?

Has anyone played with adjusting back pressure in the muffler to optimize power? I understand drilling holes in the muffler, but most other 2 strokes use the exhaust restrictions to gain significant power.

I would love to honestly answer this, but I cannot, this, so far at least, is just an excersise in futility. All I can do is hope I got luck and did something right with this saw. And thats the TRUTH!!!
Andy

 

[Freakingstang]

As THall said it best "I am a firewood cutter, not a racer" I set that beast on the log and throttle it, well, because I can, that thing DOESN'T CARE!!!!

Cant wait LOL!!!!!

Both saws had used, fresh off the grinder chain, best comparison I could find. So, other than my techniuqe sucks, the 046 is too rich, how do you think the little beasty ran, and what should I change if I "feel" the need to tear into it again?
Andy

Sounded a little lean on idle, and sounds like the saw isn't turning very high. Set the carb to about 14K and try it. Or better yet, where is it at now? What kind of wood?

Kinda hard to get an accurate feel of a saw over the interent...
You like to work the saw from the looks of it.. let the saw do the work, don't force it, should cut quicker without changing anything.

If anything, change you chain. I'm not trying to insult you at all...but it appears and sounds like you push pretty hard. Keep your rakers high if you are going to push...

 

[Freakingstang]

sorry, vid didn't show up...was too dark and nothing but a black screen after upload.

Pic is the best I can do. I wish the flash worked on the video. lol This was a piece of ash and roughly a year old.(since cut)

 

[manual]

Careful what you are saying. A free port has to do with making the intake or exhaust port wider than the piston skirt....Definately bad that way.

Andy was referring to the lower transfers (at least of what you quote him)

edit: here it is:



Andy is talking about the meat underneath the cylinder, where the air and fuel mix will enter the transfers from the crankcase. No risk of a free port here.....

Andy, if you take it back down, you can hog those lower tansfers out more. From a 2nd look, the edges of the lower transfers have not been cleaned up. Take the sides and back to the edge of the old gasket line.

Also, did you radius, or chamfer the ports when you were done playing?

My bad deleated the wrong paragraph.
This is the one I ment to talk about. 4mm on each seems to be alot.
But as he said he is not that brave.
never talked about how he was taking measurements.


Quote from Red:
The intake and exauhst ports it is hard to tell I did do more than polish them. I found I could remove 3-4mm from the sides, about .120". I am not that brave, I took about .030" from each. I also could have raised the exauhst port and lowered the intake port 1mm, .040" I moved them around .010", very little!!!
The reasons I went this way, is the reaserch I have done shows move the ports up and down, you gain RPM, open them up side to side, more tourqe. I need tourqe from this saw, it has penty of RPM, but not the balls I wanted from it. Removing the base gasket upped the compression gaing a hair more HP as well.
.

 

[sawinredneck]

Sounded a little lean on idle, and sounds like the saw isn't turning very high. Set the carb to about 14K and try it. Or better yet, where is it at now? What kind of wood?

Kinda hard to get an accurate feel of a saw over the interent...
You like to work the saw from the looks of it.. let the saw do the work, don't force it, should cut quicker without changing anything.

If anything, change you chain. I'm not trying to insult you at all...but it appears and sounds like you push pretty hard. Keep your rakers high if you are going to push...

Not sure where it's set at, I leaned it until it was a screaming 4 stroke and brought it back to a slight burble and called it good. Really seemed rich on idle to me, that was on the limiter on the low side, I'll open it up a bit next time and see. It had cooled off from ealier, it would go off idle to full throttle in a snap when it warmed up. That was about two minuets of warmup on both saws at 30deg.

The wood was White Oak, that piece was a bit green and had to be broken loose off of the trailer as it was frozen to it, no punk in there at all!!! Rakers at .022 on the 346, .025 on the 046. As the wood was frozen, I had to push LOL!!! I tried the "deft touch" earlier on a burnt piece (this was a fire killed tree) and all I did was burn up a chain. Had to work this wood!!
Andy

 

[sawinredneck]

My bad deleated the wrong paragraph.
This is the one I ment to talk about. 4mm on each seems to be alot.
But as he said he is not that brave.
never talked about how he was taking measurements.



.

I used a telescoping gauge and a 1-2" micrometer. Never could figure out how to scribe the lines inside the cylinder properly, and good luck getting calipers in there!!! As I said, this is really all coming down to guestimating at best near as I can tell!!!
Andy