What Chain To Use

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clearance said:
Can't answer everthing, full comp is a little faster than skip, but you need skip for this job for sure. Learn how to hand file, it takes some determination and practice but once you learn it is very satisfying and quick. You can take a cheap axe and hack a bit where you want to cut. Use the search on this site to see how to file, lots of info, I am sure lots will pitch in to help, thats it for me, good luck.
I started a thread on hand filing, it went on and on for many pages, lots of good stuff, look on search for it. Basically to me its like this, do you want to learn how ride your bike without the training wheels or not?
 
Dale said:
Hey 028AV Super. I have the same saw (028AVSuper) and just love the heck out of it. It's my understanding that the MS260 compares to the 028AV Super, and the MS270 and MS280 has even a bit more HP, but are MidRange saws compared to the Professional MS260. Problem is though... MS260 around here costs $ 450 pre tax. You may want to keep that Super running.

GOSH 24" Bar on an 028 Super ??? They reccommend 16,18, or 20" bars. that has to be a dog no ?


and, the MS280 won't work much better then the 028 super you have now...
 
clearance said:
I started a thread on hand filing, it went on and on for many pages, lots of good stuff, look on search for it. Basically to me its like this, do you want to learn how ride your bike without the training wheels or not?

It's still near the top of the page in Commercial Tree Care and Climbing. I'm surprised it was never moved over here, since it is more about chainsaws than climbing.
 
Dale said:
Hey 028AV Super. I have the same saw (028AVSuper) and just love the heck out of it. It's my understanding that the MS260 compares to the 028AV Super, and the MS270 and MS280 has even a bit more HP, but are MidRange saws compared to the Professional MS260. Problem is though... MS260 around here costs $ 450 pre tax. You may want to keep that Super running.

GOSH 24" Bar on an 028 Super ??? They reccommend 16,18, or 20" bars. that has to be a dog no ?

You are right Dale about the Stihl saws and their price. I guess you get what you pay for... As for 24" bar, it does work pretty good on the small stuff and also has pretty good reach. Down side is bogging as Andy mentioned. I'm thinking about 18" bar, I should help.
 
Lakeside53 said:
and, the MS280 won't work much better then the 028 super you have now...

Hey Andy,
What was the rated hp on the 028 Super? Although my saw looks excellent, it is worn and probly down on the power. The piston has nice scars on it (front/back). I don't think it's worth the money to replace piston/cyl at the going price (50% of a new saw). Sounds like you run a saw shop up there. Do you have nice used one?
 
028AV Super said:
Hey Andy,
What was the rated hp on the 028 Super? Although my saw looks excellent, it is worn and probly down on the power. The piston has nice scars on it (front/back). I don't think it's worth the money to replace piston/cyl at the going price (50% of a new saw). Sounds like you run a saw shop up there. Do you have nice used one?



Not sure what the exact HP is 'cos my file is corrupt!!

Just putting a really sweet one back together right now... with a new tecomec piston/rings. The cylinder is fine.. My boss will likely want a pound of flesh for it though... bad time of year for great deals..

Are you sure you can't save you cylinder - they usually clean up real nice. Add a Tecomec pisiton, and...
 
I thought cylinders couldn't be repaired because they're chromed, and once the chrome is scratched, it's done for?

Speaking of chrome cylinders, what sort of rings are used in chainsaws?
 
NovaMan said:
I thought cylinders couldn't be repaired because they're chromed, and once the chrome is scratched, it's done for?

Speaking of chrome cylinders, what sort of rings are used in chainsaws?

It's normally nikasil on newer saws including your 028, and unless it is scored too badly, it can be honed with a flex hone to clean it up. Most cylinders will clean up nicely and can be fitted with a fresh piston and rings.
 
Most of the "scratches" on the cylinder might be piston material left behind. Try cleaning it up (With a hone like mentioned above) before you buy parts. New piston/rings might make a whole new saw out of it. Just went through this with my new(used basket case) 084, and did my 034 super a couple of years ago too, same thing.
 
Lakeside53 said:
Not sure what the exact HP is 'cos my file is corrupt!!

Just putting a really sweet one back together right now... with a new tecomec piston/rings. The cylinder is fine.. My boss will likely want a pound of flesh for it though... bad time of year for great deals..

Are you sure you can't save you cylinder - they usually clean up real nice. Add a Tecomec piston, and...

Hey Andy, I haven't split the cylinder yet in fear of $$$$. My Super is a very faithful saw and I know she (the saw) wants to be overhauled. I've been working/rebuilding car engines as a hobby since teenager and worked as jet engine technician for over 26 years in the USAF. Besides I don't buy new stuff every time something breaks. You make it sound it's not that bad on the pocket. Do I need to take it to machine shop for honing and does it require over-sized rings? What other parts get replaced besides gasket/o-rings? I'll bet a new rod, clutch, bearings, gears, etc. add up very quickly... I know with a power train overhaul and 18" bar setup, it'll be a little hotrod that will serve me many more years of my typical homeowner usage i.e., bucking, limbing, general property clean-up. I figure cost factor would be around 40-50% ($200-250) of say, nice clean mid 4 hp saw that I'll use for felling and bucking. Then Super can chill-out just limbing... Please advise,
 
PWB said:
Most of the "scratches" on the cylinder might be piston material left behind. Try cleaning it up (With a hone like mentioned above) before you buy parts. New piston/rings might make a whole new saw out of it. Just went through this with my new(used basket case) 084, and did my 034 super a couple of years ago too, same thing.

Hey PWB Man,
What was the overhaul bill (in US dollar) on your 034 Super? Did you do everything except the machine work?
 
TimberPig said:
It's normally nikasil on newer saws including your 028, and unless it is scored too badly, it can be honed with a flex hone to clean it up. Most cylinders will clean up nicely and can be fitted with a fresh piston and rings.
Hey TimberPig,
Is the flex hone the larger version of lifter bore honing tool that gets attached to a drill? I get the feeling that clearances/ torlances aren't critical on saw cylinder/piston rebuilds. Am I applying too much of Chevy 468 BBC rebuild procedures on my Pro Street 1957 Bel Air? Making a mountain out of mole hill? Thanks,
 
Flex Hone

There's a link to a website with flex hones and info on them.

Basically if the plating is in good shape, and the cylinder isn't worn beyond spec, clean it up, toss in a new piston and rings, and it should bring it back to almost like new power. You will likely be surprised at the condition of the cylinder, it probably isn't as bad as you think.
 
I would try the easy off oven cleaner or the muriatic acid to take the alum off the cylinder. Honing takes material where you dont need to and tends to smear the aluminum around. A few vertical scratches after honing will still allow some more use out of the cylinder if the saw is not worth the price of a new jug. I would leave a few scratches rather than trying to hone them out. They are not going to be as rough on the piston and rings as running over the open ports.
 
TimberPig said:
Flex Hone

There's a link to a website with flex hones and info on them.

Basically if the plating is in good shape, and the cylinder isn't worn beyond spec, clean it up, toss in a new piston and rings, and it should bring it back to almost like new power. You will likely be surprised at the condition of the cylinder, it probably isn't as bad as you think.

Thanks for link!
 
TimberPig said:
Flex Hone

There's a link to a website with flex hones and info on them.

Basically if the plating is in good shape, and the cylinder isn't worn beyond spec, clean it up, toss in a new piston and rings, and it should bring it back to almost like new power. You will likely be surprised at the condition of the cylinder, it probably isn't as bad as you think.
This sounds like I don't need to split the case. Just take the jug off replace piston/ring and clean/hone cylinder wall? I don't have a maintenance manual, just the parts break down list from the net. Thanks for the info,
 
028AV Super said:
This sounds like I don't need to split the case. Just take the jug off replace piston/ring and clean/hone cylinder wall? I don't have a maintenance manual, just the parts break down list from the net. Thanks for the info,

Unless your crank has obvious damage or wear when you inspect it, all you need to do is pull the cylinder to freshen up the top end. It's actually a rather easy job when you get down to it. I'm sure you'll be glad you freshened it up, when you get it all back together, it'll be good for a long time after that.
 
Crofter said:
I would try the easy off oven cleaner or the muriatic acid to take the alum off the cylinder. Honing takes material where you dont need to and tends to smear the aluminum around. A few vertical scratches after honing will still allow some more use out of the cylinder if the saw is not worth the price of a new jug. I would leave a few scratches rather than trying to hone them out. They are not going to be as rough on the piston and rings as running over the open ports.
Hey Frank, sounds like you did some home experiment and worked! As for the jug (parts only), it varies from $230 from Stihl shop to $120 on ebay.
Thanks,
 
TimberPig said:
Unless your crank has obvious damage or wear when you inspect it, all you need to do is pull the cylinder to freshen up the top end. It's actually a rather easy job when you get down to it. I'm sure you'll be glad you freshened it up, when you get it all back together, it'll be good for a long time after that.
Gee, sounds easier then changing the impulse hose! I wish I had known this last year when I was going through the saw and had everything apart except the case and jug... Yeap, she'll be very happy soon. Thanks, While I got you, I read a thread sometime ago about muffler mods. Is it worth while on small saw like mine? The muffler does look restrictive by design (flame arrestor, noise, etc) and if you open it up, isn't going to require more fuel?
 

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