What do you all think of these spikes?

[Diesel JD]

Justin and everyone. Looks like you gusy were right. there is a big difference between i side and the other. I measured one gaff was barely 1.5" while the other is almost 2" So either we have 1) 1 badly worn and 1 decent gaff 2) a set of gaffs where 1 bad gaff was replaced with a pole gaff(no way right>?) Anyhow, it appears that they are well worn. As I say the gaffs are heldf in with only one drive link type rivet. Does anybody think I could make something from Bashlin or Buckingham or somebody else fit...or are they different enough to make that impossible? Thanks,
J.D.

 

[Stumper]

Nothing else is compatible. American Arborist Supplies had the replacement gaffs 5 years ago-I have no idea if they do now....... if the short is 1.5 inches then they should be sharpenable for use. Having differing lengths shouldn't matter so long as they are both contoured properly.

 

[doggonetrees]

Pole gaff are what they look like to me. Brooks probably sold replacement gaffs, and these got intermixed somehow. I know Klein "hooks" are sold with either, and some are interchangeable. Not enough padding for me and the connection with a drift pin isn't most secure method for gaffs. Put them on a nostalgia wall, and get some decent, comfortable hooks. Imagine being on a pole for an extended length of time sagging wire, pulling in a service, or hanging a transformer. My shins are hurting already!

 

[woodchux]

I'd buy a new pair, and keep those as a backup/rescue set.

 

[Stumper]

Not enough padding for me and the connection with a drift pin isn't most secure method for gaffs.

Perhaps you are opining about something you are unfamiliar with. The Brooks design is secured with a pin but the gaff has a steel arm that travels through a trough in the Iron under the instep and is secured on th efar side by a second pin though the strap ring. It is arguably the most secure replaceable gaff system ever designed since if the entire iron dematerialized you would still be standing on tha gaff strapped to your ankle.

 

[hammer0419]

Those gaffs are NOT in climbing condition. Especially for trees let alone poles.
My pole gaffs are 1 5/8" and my tree spikes are 2.5" long. They MUST be kept sharp with a hand file and a gaff guage. Do not risk your safety with those...........

 

[Monk]

they aren't safe to climb with in the condition they are in. I use pole gaffs to do most of my climbing and mine are shorter than them but they have to be sharpened properly for them to work right a gaff gauge is the best way or have someone that knows how to do it for sure sharpen them for you. They have to have a slight angle at the end of them this is what helps keep you in the tree. If I were you I would look on ebay and pick yourself up a nice set of bashlin pole gaffs and order a set of tree spurs for in them. Try both sets of spurrs in them to see what you like best I have to sets one with pole and the other with tree I primarily use the pole gaffs unless I am climbing something like a walnut or locust with real thick bark.

 

[(WLL)]

most leg irons are 4 both pole or tree but the tree gaff is longer these look like broken pole gaffs should be replaced with tree gaffs never sharpen outside edges will loose temper and only hand file inside because grinder creates to much heat

 

[AbTeK]

does anybody ever tried these ones ?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

There are a few points from this thread I'd like to address.
First, dull gaffs or bad straps should never be a safety issue. Arborists need to tie in so they can't fall and get hurt. How does gaffing out change that? It doesn't. If you are depending on your gaffs for safety, you are climbing wrong!
Climbing 18 feet up a pole without a secure attachment to the pole, or a safety net of some type is idiotic! The trainer mentioned should be fired immediately!
Second, is gaff length. On thick bark, long hooks work better. On poles and thin bark trees, or even on thick barked trees higher in the canopy, pole gaffs (shorter gaff hooks) work better.
I typically ladder up 20 or 30 feet into the tree, which puts me past the thick bark of any trees we have around here, so I favor the comfort and ease of climbing on pole spikes. Tree spikes suck to stand in.
As for the spikes in the picture, sharpen a point on the spikes and get some good leg pads, they should be great.

 

[clearance]

There are a few points from this thread I'd like to address.
First, dull gaffs or bad straps should never be a safety issue. Arborists need to tie in so they can't fall and get hurt. How does gaffing out change that? It doesn't. If you are depending on your gaffs for safety, you are climbing wrong!
Climbing 18 feet up a pole without a secure attachment to the pole, or a safety net of some type is idiotic! The trainer mentioned should be fired immediately!
Second, is gaff length. On thick bark, long hooks work better. On poles and thin bark trees, or even on thick barked trees higher in the canopy, pole gaffs (shorter gaff hooks) work better.
I typically ladder up 20 or 30 feet into the tree, which puts me past the thick bark of any trees we have around here, so I favor the comfort and ease of climbing on pole spikes. Tree spikes suck to stand in.
As for the spikes in the picture, sharpen a point on the spikes and get some good leg pads, they should be great.

Couldn't disagree with you more, to start with, ladders, ladders are flat out bad news and dangerous for tree work, as the injury and fatality section here suggests. Not to mention a pita if you have to carry them far, and, of course, not needed at all if you are climbing with spurs. Pole spikes are for poles and tree spikes are for trees, thats why they have different names, because they are made for different things. The condition of your equipment is of the utmost importance, to suggest that straps or gaffs are should not be a safety issue is foolish, in the extreme. I remove trees constantly, strip and chunk by powerlines, sometimes this work is real close to the wires, the last thing I need is to gaff out or have a strap break while removing overhang. I have always climbed with tree gaffs, never been comfort problem for me, I figure because I wear heavy Viberg linesman boots. Anyways, right tool for the job, or right job for the tool, whatever.

 

[jefflovstrom]

They look like crap! You are only using for removals, right? Go Bashlin!
Jeff Lovstrom

 

[beowulf343]

Clearance! Glad to see you back man. Hadn't seen a post by you in so long I was afraid you'd been banned!

Funny you should mention ladders. I've spent 11 years climbing full time with never a bad fall. Was putting up Christmas lights two days ago and the :censored: :censored: ladder slid out from under me and I ended up with two cracked ribs, a sprained wrist, and two broken fingers! It will be a cold day you know where before I ever get on another ladder again!

Also curious as to what make tree spikes more uncomfortable to stand in than pole spikes. The only problem I've had with tree spikes is the gaffs are so long that when you stand on the ground they sink into the dirt or hit a rock and thus become dull. Easy solution though-don't walk around on the ground with tree spikes.

 

[beowulf343]

By the way, is it just me or do the spikes in Abtek's picture look a little short? Are they even adjustable?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Ladders can be very dangerous, or perfectly safe if used proprerly. In my neck of the woods we climb all deciduous trees. Some are great for spiking up, others are 25 feet around and full of branches, just not good to spike up. So the ladder is a big work saver and real fast. If it's a long way to the truck, I'll throw a rope up and go up that way.
Clearance's comments about the danger of spiking out while cutting near power lines are valid, but my point was to be tied in properly and have redundancy in your life support. If I were cutting in a hazardous situation like near a transmission line, I would make extra sure I was stable and secure so a spike out wouldn't cause my death. That was my point.
A newbie climber should know the spikes are just climbing aides, they are not intended for life support. You need to be tied in so you can't fall.
Tree spikes, some of them anyway, are quite long and stick way out. This causes a torquing on the leg pad. With shorter spikes, the side of your boots come right up against he wood and give you leverage for moving around. They are just like standing on a stub.