What is "normal" bar/chain temperature when running?

[buzz sawyer]

Also with a new chain it kept getting loose, so I kept retensioning it, so I don't think that was the issue.

When I first found this site, I was using standard motor oil for the bar and had noticed I was constantly retensioning my chains. I thought the bar was slipping. After going to bona-fide bar oil, I rarely have to re-adjust - maybe a little more with a new chain. The chain and bar are fairly warm right after a heavy cut, but in a few minutes, no problem touching. Keep in mind, the limit of human tolerance to hot water is only about 112 deg F., so this could just be a matter of perception.

I've heard the Motion Lotion is good stuff, but I've never tried it.

 

[fsfcks]

Well the minute was more like 20 to max 30 seconds, which would not be much different from H setting. And the reason I was using full throttle while girdling etc was to avoid issues with partial throttle. So now I'm completely confused as to what to do. It seems like running at full throttle I might not be able to get enough load on the saw unless heavy cutting. This does not make sense.

When the tach arrives I'll check the settings. Perhaps the H adjustment is incorrect.

 

[1953greg]

the H adjustment will not affect chain temp

did you try the spit test??

if so, did it fry?

if not, run it

 

[BlackCatBone]

I have noticed a very high bar temp with brand new bars when the paint is still intact in and around the chain groove. To a lesser degree, a brand new chain seems to run a bit hot until it gets completely doused in bar oil. You can try to soak your chain in penetrating oil for a day or so to lessen the link to link friction.

 

[B_Turner]

I made not have read every post in this thread carefully, but for me when my chains are sharp my bars are never too hot to hold for a couple of seconds. When a chain starts to dull, the heat begin immediately and I cut with people sometimes that you could spit on their bar and it would steam. Too dull!

Dino, vege oil it should not matter much on bar temp under normal conditions. I run both and find with the commercial bio or canola oil the bars run maybe even a little cooler yet because they are thinner and more oil is pumped (I don't turn the oilers down).

I doubt this is your problem, but once I ran a saw with the wrong sprocket (.404 instead of .375) and that sucker made the chain hot in seconds! Very weird.

 

[fsfcks]

Chain is soaking. I'll clean the remaining paint off the bar/chain contact areas. Good idea to check the sprocket, but it is 3/8" as is the bar and chain. I know H setting does not change bar temp directly, but if the rpm's are too out of spec that would indirectly cause increased bar/chain temperature through higher chain speed. Didn't try the spit test, but a small part of the bar edge is blue so clearly something got hot.

 

[sILlogger]

there is a possibility that the "small portion" of the bar that is blued has gotten pinched and is causing a high amount of friction on the chain....i'd check the bar rail groove to make sure it is opened up correctly...post some pics of the bar and chain if you can..

 

[385XP]

Chain is soaking. I'll clean the remaining paint off the bar/chain contact areas. Good idea to check the sprocket, but it is 3/8" as is the bar and chain. I know H setting does not change bar temp directly, but if the rpm's are too out of spec that would indirectly cause increased bar/chain temperature through higher chain speed. Didn't try the spit test, but a small part of the bar edge is blue so clearly something got hot.

sounds maybe your bar grove is pinched shut a little or bent. also i run my saw wide open most of the time when girdling tress .just make sure your carb is ajusted right and it skouldnt be a problem.

 

[fsfcks]

I'm making some progress. Soaking the chain in bar oil for 24 hours definitely helped. It runs round the bar much smoother and quieter. I smoothed (more like polished) the bar rails to bright metal with a very fine file, cleaned out a couple of metal burrs from the bar groove, and pre-lubricated the sprocket with oil. The bar is absolutely straight and not pinched. The bar groove is just over .051" and less than .052" as measured using feeler gauges. The 72V chain is .050".

Then reading the Oregon Safety and Maintenance manual just now I've learned that I am leaving the chain too loose for a sprocket nose bar. I've been tensioning the chain (looser) like you would for a solid nose bar. I'll try a tighter tension tomorrow night.

That just leaves the carb settings to check when the tachometer gets here.

 

[stihl 440]

90 degrees

A chain should run a almost a constant 80-90 degrees. That's cool to the touch for people. And that's cutting wood constantly..........

 

[kurtty]

there is a possibility that the "small portion" of the bar that is blued has gotten pinched and is causing a high amount of friction on the chain....i'd check the bar rail groove to make sure it is opened up correctly...post some pics of the bar and chain if you can..

+1

edit:
damn it says i have given you to much rep lateley.
i must aprove of alot of your posts.

 

[fsfcks]

Thanks guys...everything now appears to be fixed, although I've still to cut wood as a final test. Apart from the above fixes (oiling chain etc) it appears I was not tensioning the chain enough i.e. it was too loose, although it looked and felt ok. I followed the instructions in the Oregon manual. I'm guessing the loose chain was rubbing against the bar sides as there is only about .001" clearance given this is a new bar and chain. Obviously this is something you all do without thinking, but I got wrong due to lack of experience.

Since the DTI tachometer arrived I also tach'ed the saw (and all my other power equipment). Fantastic test tool. I lowered the idle which also avoided some minor chain creep, but the high end was already set correctly.

Thanks for all you help. I'm looking forward to next weekend!

 

[Boogieman142]

If this post was directed to me. I am not new to chainsaws, i just don't have a need for many of them. the ones i have are all i need. the other 2 saws are relitavely big so i thought i'd keep the trend. Have u ever seen a big guy walking a kitten sized dog, no. Thats kinda the same idea here. Just cause i don't have that many posts here doesn't mean i don't know about chainsaws. I have been heating my house with wood for the past 29 years and i cut, not buy all of my wood, 10 cord every year. So if this post wasn't for me then i apologize.

Somebody that is new to chainsaws does not write a post like that or buy that chainsaw.

 

[buzz sawyer]

If this post was directed to me. I am not new to chainsaws, i just don't have a need for many of them. the ones i have are all i need. the other 2 saws are relitavely big so i thought i'd keep the trend. Have u ever seen a big guy walking a kitten sized dog, no. Thats kinda the same idea here. Just cause i don't have that many posts here doesn't mean i don't know about chainsaws. I have been heating my house with wood for the past 29 years and i cut, not buy all of my wood, 10 cord every year. So if this post wasn't for me then i apologize.

I believe it was directed at fsfcks, who started the thread. There was so much accurate detail and descriptions, JLRoot was just commenting that he thought it unlikely the post could have some from someone who was "new to chainsaws." Sometimes these threads are a little difficult to follow.

 

[Boogieman142]

I then apologize

 

[Rein]

I realize this is a very old post. I happened onto just by chance. I would have said that running it at WOT just to girdle and then turning it off after every tree was a recipe for overheating because the saw was really not into the wood and slowing down under load properly due to the job being done. He seemed to be saying he was running it at WOT all the time with little to no load - a recipe for running lean and burning up the cylinder, not to mention the rest of the saw. Just my amateur opinion. If anyone had anything contrary to that to say I'd certainly appreciate hearing it. If he was doing that on a regular basis instead of felling or bucking then I'd suggest dialing back with the tach to limit WOT speed plus adjusting the L mixture slightly richer.