What kind of shop

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Wolfking42084

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I am getting ready to build a shop in the next couple of months for my business. I have been using my old mans barn for storage for the past several years and i'm wanting something bigger and nicer. What do you guys have to work out of. I was thinking something with tin roofing and siding, maybe 30'x60' with 3 bay doors? Anyone have any pictures of their work area? thanks
 
24 x 48 shop.....not big enough....keep tractor, stump grinder and gator in it plus saws, ropes

has running water, heat, refrig and ice machine but no toilet....put a toilet in for you help...trust me

16 x 20 storage shed

12 x 16 office
 
Mine is a 30x60 typical post frame building. It is divided into two sections. shop is 24x30 and has a single 8x7 garage door. It is insulated and has a two barrel wood stove. The 36x30 side is not insulated and is used for storage, boat, lawn equip. It has a normal 2 car garage door. It has 9 ft ceilings.

Things that I would do differently now that I have lived with it for seven years:

Go with 10 foot sidewalls

My tractor barely fits. I actually have to throttle down so the little flapper on the exhaust doesn't get stuck on the door.:dizzy:

When you have regular garage doors you have a header which robs door open height. I could have had a taller door with the 10 foot instead of 9 foot. Also, when I had a slide in camper I couldn't back into the shed with the camper on, so it had to stay outside.

Insulate the whole thing

It would have cost less than $1000 more to do the whole thing. The insulation is sandwiched between the tin and the girts. You can insulate after the fact but it is a pain and doesn't go in neatly. This is assuming you are doing a pole shed. It is also more expensive to do after the fact.

Concrete the whole thing right away

I did the shop part first and left the storage side dirt. I eventually did the other side but then I had to haul everything out and deal with it again.

Go with a 40x60

It doesn't seem like much more but that extra 10 feet is 25% more space. Also, it allows more "stuff" to be along the walls and still be able to pull vehicles in behind the stuff. Plus, you can double park. Can't do that in a 30 foot deep.

If not using sliding doors, go with 9' tall doors.

See above.

Allow for two post lift


This really kills me now. I want a lift. They are less than $2K for a decent two post. The insulated shop part has the garage door right under a truss and the uninsulated part has the two car door. Plenty of room for the lift, but....it's not insulated.:cry:

If not a lift, consider putting in a "drive over" pit when you do the concrete work. You can change oil, even drop a transmission with a tranny jack in a nice pit. Super cheap to do if you do it when you are building and before concrete. Not cheap to do after the fact.

Have water plumbed in, possibly a bathroom

Another thing that kills me now. What was I thinking? Plus, now I have installed underground sprinklers so I can't trench a line to the shop from the house. The bathroom can wait, but get the water and sewer at least roughed in.

Well, there you have it. Not that I haven't given this any thought since I built it.:givebeer:

I do have a new central air conditioning unit ready to install this year. Free hookup on the unit from a buddy. Mmmmmm, AC in the shop.:clap:
 
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Very nice, I want one that size. I'm just trying to get an idea of how much to frame it. If I can just get a roof on it, I can do the sides and everything else when time allows
 
It depends how many toys you have, skid steers chippers trucks etc etc. Go with the absolute BIGGEST you can absolutly afford. I can tell you you will honestly never have enough room. Also make a loft for storing your "shtuff" that should probably be thrown out. Make a loft w/work benches under neath. Then you can put bar oil, spare parts filters etc up on shelves etc.
 
Sounds like a great idea. Another question for you guys...how many spare parts do you catch yourself having for various tools. I know I have several replacement parts for each saw(7). And then like filters for my ford super duty dump. Probably 5-6 gallons of bar oil, hand saw blades, etc. My best investment lately is a 25gallon tank with a hand crank for 50:1 gas.
 
Definately get the biggest doors you can find. Width and height. Make sure you get it wired up just the way you like it, with plenty of 220 plugs throughout the building. Also, if you spray at all make sure you've got a big ass well pump, or access to a good water supply.
 
Hey TeamTree, could you possibly post a pic of your GM 3500 with the dump? I have a 1993 GM crewcab with a 8 foot box and I was thinking of converting it to a dump. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Two 2000 square foot bays with 12 foot doors and a 1200+ square foot office. The owner of the company owns the entire building which is comprised of 8 2000 square foot bays with to offices both over 1200 square feet sitting on 10+ acres of land. Anyone looking to rent a bay we have one open?
 
consider heating it with an outdoor wood boiler.

you can burn all your pine and crap wood in it.
 
Make your building in multiple of 8' sections. Don't go 40x60. If you want around that size go 40x64. You get 4' extra and you use the same number of 6x6 posts. The only extra cost is a truss and the metal.

Scott
 
No matter what size building you put up use the concrete piers to set the posts on. It costs a little more but saves you in the long run.
 
here is the pic of the truck rickytrees

and here is a pic of the inside of my shop...well a corner of it
 

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