What lathe?

[blsnelling]

Brad;
Find a T-Base??

Nope. I had one picked out from MSC and Nik said it was junk.

 

[FATGUY]

I have no use for them.

 

[Stihl 041S]

why not? That's the same as the one you use at your shop:msp_ohmy:

burn!!!!!!

 

[FATGUY]

Why not? That's the same as the one you use at your shop:msp_ohmy:

to keep papers from blowing off my desk...

 

[Tzed250]

When I set fixtures on the table I'm usually inside of .015 by eyecrometer. I've hit it dead nuts a few times.

 

[FATGUY]

I never skimp on measuring instruments. Making parts is hard enough, I don't enjoy the challenge of not really knowing what I made.

 

[Stihl 041S]

'Ol Gator's are few and far between...

Progressive and heading die work were slow to go to CNC.

Too much art work to it.

All Ol Pharts where I was larned tool and die.






"Ours is not to reason why, ours is but to tool and die"

 

[Tzed250]

A T-base for calipers?? Unkjay, don't own one.

 

[Stihl 041S]

I have no use for them.

Checking tread depth on a tire???

Brad is covered till he gets spoiled with good tooling.

 

[Stihl 041S]

A T-base for calipers?? Unkjay, don't own one.

Great for ballpark work. To get a starting point. Till you can learn to use a scale.

 

[blsnelling]

Great for ballpark work. To get a starting point. Till you can learn to use a scale.

Actually, what I'm really after is a small T device that I can set on the base of the cylinder to mark my vertical layout lines with for porting. A 6" rule with a t-slide would work perfect. Something like this, LINK.

 

[parrisw]

Screws On the top for this bar.

Fine threads mean more pressure, enough to open it up. Keep away from the edge. Make sure there is enough lower support.

Yes all things I thought about, I made the lower support more then the top. Fine thread a must. Was actually thinking of welding the end closed so it won't open up.

 

[Lakeside53]

Dedicated depth micrometers get used little in my shop. I have a beautiful almost unused set. Pop-up on a piston? Touch tool to crown, cut back as required based on mag base travel indicator on carriage. Done. For the ports etc, back-end of a QUALITY caliper. Make a t support if you like but after a while you'll get good enough and the square end and extention will likely be sufficient.


Oh.... wait... maybe he needs one to copy other guys work! lol....


Brad - buy a a quality mag base stand (or a few of them!), at least one +/- 15 thou name brand (Mitutoyo, Starret etc) indiator, a few random dial indicators and a quality 1 or 2 inch travel indicator. You are going to some decent gear just to dial in your piston or cylinder in a 4 jaw chuck.


If you really want to measure from t-base, peruse these :

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=depth+micrometer&_sacat=0

 

[Rudolf73]

Actually, what I'm really after is a small T device that I can set on the base of the cylinder to mark my vertical layout lines with for porting. A 6" rule with a t-slide would work perfect. Something like this, LINK.

Yeah that's what I use Brad, I got one for a few dollars on fleabay.

 

[parrisw]

Dedicated depth micrometers get used little in my shop. I have a beautiful almost unused set. Pop-up on a piston? Touch tool to crown, cut back as required based on mag base travel indicator on carriage. Done. For the ports etc, back-end of a QUALITY caliper. Make a t support if you like but after a while you'll get good enough and the square end and extention will likely be sufficient.


Oh.... wait... maybe he needs one to copy other guys work! lol....


Brad - buy a a quality mag base stand (or a few of them!), at least one +/- 15 thou name brand (Mitutoyo, Starret etc) indiator, a few random dial indicators and a quality 1 or 2 inch travel indicator. You are going to some decent gear just to dial in your piston or cylinder in a 4 jaw chuck.


If you really want to measure from t-base, peruse these :

depth micrometer | eBay

Awesome info there. Ya for piston and cylinder work, I find that the dials on my lathe handles at accurate enough to get me within a thou of desired squish, however I don't do it that way anymore. I have a indicator on the carriage.

 

[blsnelling]

...but after a while you'll get good enough and the square end and extention will likely be sufficient.

That's what I've done for the last couple of years. A little larger base would be handy though.

 

[parrisw]

Yes, you just make what you need for a special purpose. I aquired several hundred "last century" specifically ground HSS bits (or lumps in some cases) for those "special hard-to-reach" areas. You can go bankrupt buying specialty carbide for those one-off projects.

One thing with 1/4 inch - you can reach far... maybe 2-> 2.5 diameters in steel... or you risk chatter or tool deflection. Same with the boring bar - a 1 inch is "good" for maybe 2.5 inches of reach, athough that's often abused by this writer! A solid carbide bar ($$) is good for about 10X diameter, so a 1/2 inch bar - maybe 5 inches. I have a few... down to 3/32 inch diameter, and that one has an insert on the end

Yes. I've been using a bar that's way too small, and it has a tiny HSS insert. It worked, but not like it could have. 3/4" is the biggest bar I can hold, and I don't plan on hanging the bit out too far, just as long as I need to, no more.

 

[blsnelling]

Pics of you guys' tooling and setups would be great

 

[FATGUY]

Pics of you guys' tools would be great

pervert...

 

[parrisw]

Pics of you guys' tooling and setups would be great

easy, a tool holder, we all know what that looks like, and either with a RH or a LH cutter in it!! LOL