What lathe?

[blsnelling]

pervert...

I think that makes YOU the pervert!

 

[Stihl 041S]

pervert...

Now. Now. Alternate life style.....

 

[Lakeside53]

Yes. I've been using a bar that's way too small, and it has a tiny HSS insert. It worked, but not like it could have. 3/4" is the biggest bar I can hold, and I don't plan on hanging the bit out too far, just as long as I need to, no more.

Toss the compound (ok, you can keep it), machine (or "obtain") a suitable block of steel, bolt it to the carriage using the compound mount post (or whatever) and use the lathe to bore whatever diameter you need for a bar. Also, make it so you can hold tooling. Light lathe compounds SUCK for rigidity; try a dedicated tool block when you don't need compound action and you'll be blown away by the improvement.

 

[parrisw]

Toss the compound (ok, you can keep it), machine (or "obtain") a suitable block of steel, bolt it to the carriage using the compound mount post (or whatever) and use the lathe to bore whatever diameter you need for a bar. Also, make it so you can hold tooling. Light lathe compounds SUCK for rigidity; try a dedicated tool block when you don't need compound action and you'll be blown away by the improvement.

I've often thought about that, then I'd need a boring head? Once you bore the hole, how do you clamp the bar in the hole? Cut the block in half and bolt back together. I've seen the boring bar holders that bolt directly to where the tool post mounts.

So you're just talking about getting rid of my quick change tool post? And just using a hunk of steel? Then I'd guess I'd have to shim to get the right height?

 

[Bob Wright]

try a dedicated tool block when you don't need compound action and you'll be blown away by the improvement.

I use a bunch of them. Gawd i love making fixtures. This fixture could just as easy hold a boring bar or a cut off tool...Bob

 

[Bob Wright]

So you're just talking about getting rid of my quick change tool post? And just using a hunk of steel? Then I'd guess I'd have to shim to get the right height?

Or start with a block of steel with the hole custom fit to your lathes centerline and tooling, like this one. Do it all the time...Bob

 

[Lakeside53]

Pics of you guys' tooling and setups would be great

Driving expanding mandrels. I hate dogs, so i built my own

Oh... I built the most useful machine in my shop - a 2x72 belt sander that can move the belt reliably at 0-> 6000sfm... Actually, I built 2 with interchangeable parts.

The belt tracking mechanisum (my design entirely)

One of several attachments - this one adapts buffing wheels and grinder wheels/disks.

The rest of the pics are here :
x72 Belt grinder pictures by lakeside53 - Photobucket

 

[Bob Wright]

Pics of you guys' tooling and setups would be great

Join my yahoo lathe group and look at all the pics in the folders and files for some great ideas. I thought so anyways...Bob
southbend10k : SouthBendLathe10k and lathe projects.

 

[wigglesworth]

I have no use for them.

Me either...

Oh wait, this isnt the autotune thread is it?

 

[Metals406]

Brad, Will already had you subscribe to tublecain on YouTube, but you need to sub to Keith too.

He's a job shop, and a good one at that. I've learned a lot from his videos -- I'd also like to shake his hand some day.

Turn Wright Machine Works - YouTube

 

[Lakeside53]

I've often thought about that, then I'd need a boring head? Once you bore the hole, how do you clamp the bar in the hole? Cut the block in half and bolt back together. I've seen the boring bar holders that bolt directly to where the tool post mounts.

So you're just talking about getting rid of my quick change tool post? And just using a hunk of steel? Then I'd guess I'd have to shim to get the right height?

Tool holder can't handle the right sized bar? Here's one with the compound:

It's bored to size with a boring head like this. You can also use and endmill and/or drill. if your insert isn't on center (most positive rake are, but...) set the block height so the resultant center of the bore for the exact insert centerline. The pic shows one of my fancy solid carbide boring bars. It can extend as shown and more.

Here's the base block with an AXA toolpost (the block above can bolt to the top also). Massively rigid in comparison to a compound:

 

[Lakeside53]

Join my yahoo lathe group and look at all the pics in the folders and files for some great ideas. I thought so anyways...Bob
southbend10k : SouthBendLathe10k and lathe projects.

And this thead is worth reading end to end when you have a couple of sleepless nights :Shop Made Tools

 

[Rudolf73]

[snip]


Here's the base block with an AXA toolpost (the block above can bolt to the top also). Massively rigid in comparison to a compound:

Is that an Emco Maximat you have there Lake?

 

[Lakeside53]

Is that an Emco Maximat you have there Lake?

It's one of 2 V10P's i owned and sold to immediate neighbors (so i can still get to them). Should have kept the last one...

The second I completely rebuilt (been in a damp basement for 35 years, but basically unused).

From this:

To this:

Pics here : Emco v10P rebuild pictures by lakeside53 - Photobucket

 

[blsnelling]

I remember when you were cleaning up those rusty gears.

 

[Lakeside53]

I do not want to buy an old lathe that needs refurbed. If buying used, I wouldn't know a worn out machine from a good one. I was thinking something along the lines of a Grizzly. Of course, if someone I knew had a good older US made unit, that would be different. It MUST be small though

Add European to that list... The above is an EMCO (not eNco) V10P. A wonderfully accuate and fully featured lathe. Old SMALL USA iron rarely competes with German or British offerings.

 

[Rudolf73]

It's one of 2 V10P's i owned and sold to immediate neighbors (so i can still get to them). Should have kept the last one...

[snip]

To this:

Pics here : Emco v10P rebuild pictures by lakeside53 - Photobucket

Very nice! The V10P is on my wish list. Its made in Austria so you can't go wrong. There was a local one advertised for $2600, but that's a bit high for me at the moment.

 

[Lakeside53]

I remember when you were cleaning up those rusty gears.

Yep...2009?

It''s really important that the "cleaning" doesn't included abrasive (even rotary wire brushes) methods. I restored that lathe and mill to new specs by safe chemical (not acids!) removal of the rust. Today I'd add electroysis to derusting (and de-painting) of selected parts.

 

[Lakeside53]

Very nice! The V10P is on my wish list. Its made in Austria so you can't go wrong. There was a local one advertised for $2600, but that's a bit high for me at the moment.

You see them for $1200 to $1800 often. I paid $800, but it was a basket case. I put maybe $200 in parts (mostly bearings), and a couple of hundred hours. The paint is original.

Of course it didn't stop there... I added a 3 phase motor and VFD, then aquired a genuine base and.. and.. lol..

 

[Tzed250]

We had a Super 11 at school. Nice machine.