What lathe?

[blsnelling]

Without pictures it didn't happen.

Sorry. It didn't happen today.

 

[Lakeside53]

Rats... it was pages back.... Yep, I'm late to this party.

Definitely get a way to hold the pipe tail. Bullnoses work OK, but... you still have to true up the pipe-end first. Best way I know is a "cats-eye" steady.

 

[parrisw]

I use solid Aluminum for mandrels, much better IMHO.

 

[Lakeside53]

I use solid Aluminum for mandrels, much better IMHO.

I've been reducing expensive aluminum to worthless chips all week. Then the final part was also reduced to worthless with one simple programming error. Damn it, right side, not center on the cutter. Had to get the brand new snapped off carbide EM out with a cold chisel. :msp_rolleyes: The good news.. I can now make the parts in about 17 minutes!. The first took 22 hours. lol... I only need two!

The aluminum I'm using is 7075 T651 - nice stuff.. almost as strong as mild steel, but it doesn't weld so no "repairs" after.

 

[Stihl 041S]

Expanding mandrill.

 

[parrisw]

Recognize this 4-Jaw Andy?

 

[parrisw]

I've been reducing expensive aluminum to worthless chips all week. Then the final part was also reduced to worthless with one simple programming error. Damn it, right side, not center on the cutter. Had to get the brand new snapped off carbide EM out with a cold chisel. :msp_rolleyes: The good news.. I can now make the parts in about 17 minutes!. The first took 22 hours. lol... I only need two!

The aluminum I'm using is 7075 T651 - nice stuff.. almost as strong as mild steel, but it doesn't weld so no "repairs" after.

I just like Alu better, plus I feel better slipping the cylinder over an aluminum mandrel as apposed to a steel one.

 

[Lakeside53]

Recognize this 4-Jaw Andy?

Guess I can quit looking for it now.


Hmmm... Looks like some old junk of foisted off on the unsuspecting:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Lakeside53]

I just like Alu better, plus I feel better slipping the cylinder over an aluminum mandrel as apposed to a steel one.

Also easier on the tools when you need to bite into it.

 

[parrisw]

Guess I can quit looking for it now.


Hmmm... Looks like some old junk of foisted off on the unsuspecting:hmm3grin2orange:

LOL, well, that junk is working out pretty good for me!! LOL

Also easier on the tools when you need to bite into it.

Yep!

 

[FATGUY]

I've been reducing expensive aluminum to worthless chips all week. Then the final part was also reduced to worthless with one simple programming error. Damn it, right side, not center on the cutter. Had to get the brand new snapped off carbide EM out with a cold chisel. :msp_rolleyes: The good news.. I can now make the parts in about 17 minutes!. The first took 22 hours. lol... I only need two!

The aluminum I'm using is 7075 T651 - nice stuff.. almost as strong as mild steel, but it doesn't weld so no "repairs" after.

I avoid using solid carbide when milling aluminum for that very reason, Hanita and International Mini-Cut make much better HSS/CO endmills. In production milling I've used a 1" mini-cut, full diameter, 1/2" DOC, 4000 RPM and 40 IPM. Sounds like pop-corn.

 

[Nitroman]

185 to 190 is more than enough for a saw that actually does get worked on a daily basis. im not talking about an occasional use firewood saw that sees a few hrs at a time every couple of weeks or months. im talking about saws that see all day tree tipping 5-6 days a week 52 weeks a year,you know ,a saw that lives up to the worksaw name. i think if you have one over 200 psi it will live a much shorter life. compression makes heat and causes more wear. when your running a saw all day long in extended long hard cuts that heat can add up to the demise of a saw.this is just my opinion on the matter and in no way means that others are wrong. im just telling it from my point of experience.

If one does end up with one thins too much comp, just another $50 to have the jug anodized black. Really shed the heat then.

 

[Nitroman]

Recognize this 4-Jaw Andy?

That looks to be a pretty big lathe there.

 

[Stihl 041S]

I avoid using solid carbide when milling aluminum for that very reason, Hanita and International Mini-Cut make much better HSS/CO endmills. In production milling I've used a 1" mini-cut, full diameter, 1/2" DOC, 4000 RPM and 40 IPM. Sounds like pop-corn.

Hey Nick;
Ever use a 2 1/2" OD 7/8"shaft corncob rougher for aluminium. We called it a weedwacker. Manual mill but the chips fly!!

 

[parrisw]

That looks to be a pretty big lathe there.

Not really. 9"

 

[FATGUY]

Hey Nick;
Ever use a 2 1/2" OD 7/8"shaft corncob rougher for aluminium. We called it a weedwacker. Manual mill but the chips fly!!

by corncob, do you mean knuckled? (ie ripping/roughing e/m) or do you mean inserted? I've never used inserted e/m on aluminum. I have used large e/m's on aluminum, but they weren't knuckled and I don't think it was bigger than 2". Let my try and find some pics online of the types I've used.

 

[Stihl 041S]

by corncob, do you mean knuckled? (ie ripping/roughing e/m) or do you mean inserted? I've never used inserted e/m on aluminum. I have used large e/m's on aluminum, but they weren't knuckled and I don't think it was bigger than 2". Let my try and find some pics online of the types I've used.

Non insert rougher

 

[FATGUY]

this is an online pic of the minicut e/m's I was talking about. That weird looking geometry is all for chip clearance and evacuation.

 

[FATGUY]

Non insert rougher

like this?

 

[Stihl 041S]

like this?

Except high helix, only 1 1/2" LOC and Tin coated. Snuggle it up to the collet.

Worthless on steel, but the Wrath of God on Aluminum.