What saw would YOU buy for stumping with a 36" bar?

[blsnelling]

Trust me, I don't doubt that one bit!

 

[SilverKing]

I bought a used 2095 Jonsered a few years ago.Kinda impractical for what I do,but a hell of a saw .Sold the thing on the bay and wish i had it back.Too bad you dont want an older saw,cause id go with a 750 Homelite

 

[blsnelling]

I bought a used 2095 Jonsered a few years ago.Kinda impractical for what I do,but a hell of a saw .Sold the thing on the bay and wish i had it back.Too bad you dont want an older saw,cause id go with a 750 Homelite

Got one

 

[MCW]

the limb that hit you wasnt but a few inches. theres men that have been killed by 2'' limbs. my uncle being one of them.

True for sure Terry. A logger with a lot of experience over here was speared through the shoulder a few years back with a very small branch from a great height which caused massive injuries. Helmet or not they reckon he'd have been killed if it had copped him in the head.
You don't see the small ones coming as easily either...

 

[blsnelling]

Any of you guys played with advancing the ignition timing on the 395? I need to find some more in this saw. Right now, it's exactly on par with my 064/066. The 066BB I sold was significantly strong than it, meaning this 395 is weaker. Maybe I'll send this 395 jug to Randy and let him do his squish band mod, but it already has 180 PSI compression. I'm seriously beginning to think about a 395 piston in a 390 If I could get the same power out of a smaller, lighter, inboard clutch, outboard tension adjuster, I'd be more than happy. It would make a fun project anyway.

Now let me put this in perspective. Everyone that ran it at the GTG Saturday was impressed with it. All of these saws are FANTASTIC runners. Being the hobbiest gear head that I am, I'm always looking for the holy grail of saws. That will never change as long as I'm playing with saws. Any of these saws would make a fine choice for anyone.

 

[komatsuvarna]

Any of you guys played with advancing the ignition timing on the 395? I need to find some more in this saw. Right now, it's exactly on par with my 064/066. The 066BB I sold was significantly strong than it, meaning this 395 is weaker. Maybe I'll send this 395 jug to Randy and let him do his squish band mod, but it already has 180 PSI compression. I'm seriously beginning to think about a 395 piston in a 390 If I could get the same power out of a smaller, lighter, inboard clutch, outboard tension adjuster, I'd be more than happy. It would make a fun project anyway.

Now let me put this in perspective. Everyone that ran it at the GTG Saturday was impressed with it. All of these saws are FANTASTIC runners. Being the hobbiest gear head that I am, I'm always looking for the holy grail of saws. That will never change as long as I'm playing with saws. Any of these saws would make a fine choice for anyone.

They should be a little more in it somewhere. IIRC at Jeremy's, your 066 and my 066 were fairly close, and I think your 066BB was about the same too, right? 29ish-30ish second cuts?

I never ran my 066 and 395 together with a 32'' bar. In the same wood, and with a 28'' bar with a 8 pin,,,,my 395 was a little faster than my 066 by 2.5-3 seconds average, and the 395 felt to have a lot more torque...same bar and chain on both saws. This is just me though . My personal favorite is the 395 mainly because the spring AV, but vibes don't bother a lot of people like they do me. Ill take the extra couple pounds of the 395 myself, but then again, thats just me .

 

[parrisw]

Any of you guys played with advancing the ignition timing on the 395? I need to find some more in this saw. Right now, it's exactly on par with my 064/066. The 066BB I sold was significantly strong than it, meaning this 395 is weaker. Maybe I'll send this 395 jug to Randy and let him do his squish band mod, but it already has 180 PSI compression. I'm seriously beginning to think about a 395 piston in a 390 If I could get the same power out of a smaller, lighter, inboard clutch, outboard tension adjuster, I'd be more than happy. It would make a fun project anyway.

Now let me put this in perspective. Everyone that ran it at the GTG Saturday was impressed with it. All of these saws are FANTASTIC runners. Being the hobbiest gear head that I am, I'm always looking for the holy grail of saws. That will never change as long as I'm playing with saws. Any of these saws would make a fine choice for anyone.

Put more time on it Brad, its still brand new.

Those can easily take more compression, I've had them up to 195-200 and still be happy.

This aint much to compare to. But this is one of the better running 395's I've done. 36" full comp chain 8 pin.

[video=youtube;Na6iUZWFPSk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Na6iUZWFPSk[/video]

 

[blsnelling]

They should be a little more in it somewhere. IIRC at Jeremy's, your 066 and my 066 were fairly close, and I think your 066BB was about the same too, right? 29ish-30ish second cuts?

I never ran my 066 and 395 together with a 32'' bar. In the same wood, and with a 28'' bar with a 8 pin,,,,my 395 was a little faster than my 066 by 2.5-3 seconds average, and the 395 felt to have a lot more torque...same bar and chain on both saws. This is just me though . My personal favorite is the 395 mainly because the spring AV, but vibes don't bother a lot of people like they do me. Ill take the extra couple pounds of the 395 myself, but then again, thats just me .

My 066BB was quite a lot stronger than my 064/066 build-off saw. I knew that long before the GTG. In the build-off cant, it cut a 25.xx. My 395 is cutting right with the 064/066, meaning it's not as strong as my 066BB was.

I just remembered this morning that Paul's 390 spanked all of the 066/660s at the build-off in 20" wood. Add another 1mm to the bore with a 395 piston, and what's not to like? As far as saws go, I much prefer the 390 to the 395. The 395 is significantly bigger and heavier than the 390, or the 660 for that matter. I also do not like the outboard clutch, and was shocked to see an inboard chain tension adjuster. If I can make a 390 as strong, or stronger than a 395, then I'm all over that.

I'd love to see Paul's 390 against Komatsuvarna's 395 in big wood.

 

[komatsuvarna]

My 066BB was quite a lot stronger than my 064/066 build-off saw. I knew that long before the GTG. In the build-off cant, it cut a 25.xx. My 395 is cutting right with the 064/066, meaning it's not as strong as my 066BB was.

I just remembered this morning that Paul's 390 spanked all of the 066/660s at the build-off in 20" wood. Add another 1mm to the bore with a 395 piston, and what's not to like? As far as saws go, I much prefer the 390 to the 395. The 395 is significantly bigger and heavier than the 390, or the 660 for that matter. I also do not like the outboard clutch, and was shocked to see an inboard chain tension adjuster. If I can make a 390 as strong, or stronger than a 395, then I'm all over that.

I'd love to see Paul's 390 against Komatsuvarna's 395 in big wood.

Im sure Pauls 390 would take my 395..... Scott done an excellent job on it, Im just a hack!

 

[blsnelling]

What the 395 is missing is RPMs. Mine only likes to be tuned to 13,000. Tune it any leaner, and it starts losing torque fast. I forget what my 390 turned, but it was a lot more than that. IIRC, it was closer to 15,000. I never got a chance to run it in very big wood before it went south. When the ears were too long from cutting the squish and base, and not enough taken off the cylinder extensions, those cylinder extensions got bent when the cylinder was tightened down. I don't believe anything is cracked, but the cylinder is out of round at the very bottom. So, I want to have Nik recut the base square, then send it off to US Chrome and have it bored 1mm oversized and replated for the 395 piston. I want to try this whether it goes on a new 390 to replace the 395, or swap the piped topend back and forth with my current 390.

 

[komatsuvarna]

What the 395 is missing is RPMs. Mine only likes to be tuned to 13,000. Tune it any leaner, and it starts losing torque fast. I forget what my 390 turned, but it was a lot more than that. IIRC, it was closer to 15,000. I never got a chance to run it in very big wood before it went south. When the ears were too long from cutting the squish and base, and not enough taken off the cylinder extensions, those cylinder extensions got bent when the cylinder was tightened down. I don't believe anything is cracked, but the cylinder is out of round at the very bottom. So, I want to have Nik recut the base square, then send it off to US Chrome and have it bored 1mm oversized and replated for the 395 piston. I want to try this whether it goes on a new 390 to replace the 395, or swap the piped topend back and forth with my current 390.

Yep, I agree with the RPMs. It may be in the timing. Ill put a light on mine in the next few days, Then we'll know exactly where it is. :msp_thumbsup:

 

[parrisw]

What the 395 is missing is RPMs. Mine only likes to be tuned to 13,000. Tune it any leaner, and it starts losing torque fast. I forget what my 390 turned, but it was a lot more than that. IIRC, it was closer to 15,000. I never got a chance to run it in very big wood before it went south. When the ears were too long from cutting the squish and base, and not enough taken off the cylinder extensions, those cylinder extensions got bent when the cylinder was tightened down. I don't believe anything is cracked, but the cylinder is out of round at the very bottom. So, I want to have Nik recut the base square, then send it off to US Chrome and have it bored 1mm oversized and replated for the 395 piston. I want to try this whether it goes on a new 390 to replace the 395, or swap the piped topend back and forth with my current 390.

Likely needs to be broken in still. How much fuel have you put through it? Sounds like you're trying to talk you're self out of the 395 already. The one I posted the vid of I think I had it tuned close to 14.5K, the vid I posted, that saw was still on the first few tanks of fuel with a new piston and rings.

 

[parrisw]

What did you do with the transfers? Upper and lower?

 

[srcarr52]

Any of you guys played with advancing the ignition timing on the 395? I need to find some more in this saw. Right now, it's exactly on par with my 064/066. The 066BB I sold was significantly strong than it, meaning this 395 is weaker. Maybe I'll send this 395 jug to Randy and let him do his squish band mod, but it already has 180 PSI compression. I'm seriously beginning to think about a 395 piston in a 390 If I could get the same power out of a smaller, lighter, inboard clutch, outboard tension adjuster, I'd be more than happy. It would make a fun project anyway.

Now let me put this in perspective. Everyone that ran it at the GTG Saturday was impressed with it. All of these saws are FANTASTIC runners. Being the hobbiest gear head that I am, I'm always looking for the holy grail of saws. That will never change as long as I'm playing with saws. Any of these saws would make a fine choice for anyone.

Yes I've run 4 degrees of advance on a 394 there is a little torque gain but no RPM.

In my experience a ported 066 will out cut a ported 394/5 when using a 7 pin and with smaller bars. The Huskys really shines when you start to load them with larger bars or 8pins and you've already found the reason why. The last 066 I did was pig rich and still turning 14.5k free speed but the last 394 I did likes to be around 13-13.5k, RPM in the cut is much closer but the 066 still likes to pull at a little higher RPM. With that I went searching for more and did a completely different exhaust port design similar to the Stihl and this is what I finished with. I was able to gain more RPM without killing the beloved torque of these saws.

[video=youtube;uOgBLD6LdMA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOgBLD6LdMA[/video]

Here is the build thread.
Husqvarna 394xp with Stihl envy.

 

[blsnelling]

What did you do with the transfers? Upper and lower?

I widened them towards the intake, but did not raise them at all. I went in the lowers and cleaned up around the divider. I also tapered the very bottom of them a little towards the base, but not much.

 

[srcarr52]

I widened them towards the intake, but did not raise them at all. I went in the lowers and cleaned up around the divider. I also tapered the very bottom of them a little towards the base, but not much.

In my experience you have to raise them back up to the stock level after removing the base gasket. I think most of the gains are found in more intake timing and a tad more exhaust. Where did you go with those?

I'm usually around: Note these are mesaured with a dial caliper and then converted into degrees. They'll differ a few degrees depending on how picky you get with port bevel with your degree wheel.
Ex 158
Intake 157
Trans 118-120

 

[blsnelling]

I left the exhaust and transfer port timing alone, only widening them. I did drop the intake just a little, to clean it up a bit.

Exhaust - 101
Transfers - 120
Intake - 80

Compression is already 180 PSI, and it's only wearing one ring.

Here ya go.

 

[Tzed250]

Probably needs more break-in. My 660 only began to loosen up after 6-7 tanks.

 

[parrisw]

Put more time on it Brad, its still brand new.

Likely needs to be broken in still. How much fuel have you put through it?

Probably needs more break-in. My 660 only began to loosen up after 6-7 tanks.

What? Am I talking to my self ova here? LOL :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[rms61moparman]

What? Am I talking to my self ova here? LOL :hmm3grin2orange:

I hear you Will!
Loud and clear.


Mike