What saw would YOU buy for stumping with a 36" bar?

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What new 90-100cc saw should I buy for a 36" B&C?


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With all that has been done, all the work and taking everything into consideration, if you had to do it all over again, knowing what you know now, what saw would you have chosen? What would be the best saw for stumping with a 36 inch bar modded or stock?
 
With all that has been done, all the work and taking everything into consideration, if you had to do it all over again, knowing what you know now, what saw would you have chosen? What would be the best saw for stumping with a 36 inch bar modded or stock?

This is just my opinion, so ..........

I think ''stumping'' and ''36 inch bar'' is 2 key words here. Husky only rates the 390s for a 28'' bar, which I know for a fact they have more than enough power to pull a lot more than 28''....but not sure the rest would last that long in ''stumping with a 36'' bar'' conditions. Maybe Im wrong too :).

Here's an interesting quote I copied and pasted.

Ok for starters there is nothing wrong with a 390/2188 with a 36" bar up north in soft wood country gut in hard wood about a 30" is about max that I would run starting to put to much pressure on the PTO side bearing. Reason if you are liming with a long bar the chain likes to come off a lot easier than a short bar say 24" so the automatic thing to do is tighten the chain super tight so this happens less . But what people don't think about is how much more pressure that you are putting ion the PTO side bearing and with the inboard clutch design of the 2188 there is a farther distance between the bearing and the sprocket than there is on a 395 with a out board clutch .So the more distance between the bearing and the sprocket the more pressure that you are putting on the bearing when running the chain to tight. First the 395's Outboard clutch a plus when running a 33" and above bar length. Second the 395 has bigger crank bearings and a stronger clutch than a 2188/390. Third the 395 is one tough SOB and it is way lighter and cheaper than a 3120/880. So if I haven't made up your mind for you yet PM me and we'll talk. I have owned both 390/2188 is for average timber and the 395xp big timber and Harder hardwood like Hard Maple, Birch, and Beech. Oh and they run forever.
 
That was close to my opinion of them after having several 390s and a 394 and 395. They didn't seem to mind a 32" to 41" as much as a 660. The 390 I never tried with a 41" as I never thought it would oil it. If I were going to buy a new one tomorrow to wear a 36" for the life of it a 395 would be my choice.
 
Yes 395's are one tough SOB! I would not run a 36" full time on a 390, to me the 390 just doesn't feel like a stump saw, 395 is just tougher in every way, I love my 390, however I'll never not own a 395. My last 395 would pull 36" full comp 8pin all day, don't think a 390 would be too happy about that.
 
You guys seem to know these huskies inside and out. The carb set up is the only difference i know of between the 394 & 395. Are there anymore differences between the two and are the 394's as tough as the 395's?
 
The 395s are a quad port cylinder, the 394s are dual port like the 066/660s. The 394s are thick ring piston, the 395s are thin ring, not sure if dimensions are different or not. 394s have a different crank and flywheel with a square keyway, the 395s have the keyway cast in the flywheel. They have a lot of similarities, but not everything will swap out unless you have all the parts to go along with it. A 395 topend can be put on a 394 if the intake track and carb stuff from the 395 is used. Ive herd some say they like the 394 better, others like the 395 better.
 
Some good posts. I've had and busheled with 5 , 394 s . 3 were stock 2 were Ace Morgan modified. . The Ace Morgan saws were as blippy as any saw I've seen on utube. They were tuned to around 13,400 free and would pull over 11,000 with 34" in 500+ year old Sitka spruce. 36" bar minus 2" for the dogs. I couldn't run a 7 tooth 3/8 rim on them, it would explode the 1 st time the chain hung.
Ron Hull + Clayton Smalley ran Hunts modified 394 s running 8 tooth 404 full comp. They didn't blow rims. as I remember Clay ran the 109 driver Windsor bar. Ron ran Oregon and Woodland Pro. wien I was on the same crew. I ran 8 tooth 3/8 Oregon 75 CKX. Everyone chisel ground their own chains.
 
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The difference between the 88 cc and 94 cc saws as far as production went was mostly the size of the timber you were in.
Just because a saw has the snort to rip chains in half doesn't always mean you will cut the most itimber with that saw .. The 066/660 + 394/395 seem to get around 25 minutes on a tank of fuel. the 064 and 288 would get over 40 minutes most of the time. Burn about half
a gallon less fuel per day.
Fewer fill ups means less down time.

If your timber is running 4' on the stump average, a 394/5 is the ticket. if it's 3' , a 390 will probably do as good for fallin, limbin+ buckin. . JMO+E
 
This is just my opinion, so ..........

I think ''stumping'' and ''36 inch bar'' is 2 key words here. Husky only rates the 390s for a 28'' bar, which I know for a fact they have more than enough power to pull a lot more than 28''....but not sure the rest would last that long in ''stumping with a 36'' bar'' conditions. Maybe Im wrong too :).

Here's an interesting quote I copied and pasted.

Ok for starters there is nothing wrong with a 390/2188 with a 36" bar up north in soft wood country gut in hard wood about a 30" is about max that I would run starting to put to much pressure on the PTO side bearing. Reason if you are liming with a long bar the chain likes to come off a lot easier than a short bar say 24" so the automatic thing to do is tighten the chain super tight so this happens less . But what people don't think about is how much more pressure that you are putting ion the PTO side bearing and with the inboard clutch design of the 2188 there is a farther distance between the bearing and the sprocket than there is on a 395 with a out board clutch .So the more distance between the bearing and the sprocket the more pressure that you are putting on the bearing when running the chain to tight. First the 395's Outboard clutch a plus when running a 33" and above bar length. Second the 395 has bigger crank bearings and a stronger clutch than a 2188/390. Third the 395 is one tough SOB and it is way lighter and cheaper than a 3120/880. So if I haven't made up your mind for you yet PM me and we'll talk. I have owned both 390/2188 is for average timber and the 395xp big timber and Harder hardwood like Hard Maple, Birch, and Beech. Oh and they run forever.

Wouldn't this logic then suggest that the 660 is not adequate for a 36" bar? This is just fuel for discussion.
 
A 660 does just fine with a 36" bar. If the bar is full a 395 will pull better. But that isn't to say the 660 is bad. with the new LW bars it would balance better than with an all steel bar, which is a big problem I have with them. Handle bar is too far to the rear, They vibrate too much, don't oil enough and have too small a fuel tank.
 
A 660 does just fine with a 36" bar. If the bar is full a 395 will pull better. But that isn't to say the 660 is bad. with the new LW bars it would balance better than with an all steel bar, which is a big problem I have with them. Handle bar is too far to the rear, They vibrate too much, don't oil enough and have too small a fuel tank.

Yep, I had one for a bit. It was a really great saw, but im over sensitive to vibes and I couldn't stand to run it long. Probably too much of a 90lb rock drill and jack hammer in the younger days got to my hands.

My 066 would almost starve a 28'' to death IMO. The 395 will sling a stream off the end of a 36 incher.
 
Well............................................. I dunno :laugh:. Never thought about it that way, but you do have a point.:D

I'm very much still undecided. In my mind, the 395 needs to be spectacular to win my affection. IMHO, it has several disadvantages over the 390 and 660. I do not like outboard clutches. I was shocked to see that it still has an inboard chain tension adjuster. It's also much heavier, larger, and bulkier. So far, I haven't seen it do anything a 390 or 660 couldn't do. What I can't speak for is durability and longevity in a demanding environment. I'll never wear out any of these models, so it's not a factor in my decision making. I VERY much like the 390. I really want to build one with a 395 piston. That might be the cat's meow....maybe not. Either way, I enjoy the search.

Keep in mind, I'm only interested in what these saws can do with a 36" B&C. Would the 395 shine with a 42" bar? Maybe, but that's not what I'm looking for.

Yesterday I advanced the ignition 6°. I also swapped back in the original carb. The Tilly HS just wouldn't tune right, particularly on the low side. It runs perfectly now with the original carb back on. It also seemed to really like the advanced ignition. I now need to get it back in bigger wood and see how it does against the 064/066.
 
Wouldn't this logic then suggest that the 660 is not adequate for a 36" bar? This is just fuel for discussion.
LOL! Good one, shiat fellas I have seen 66's put more big wood on the ground here Brad, ah if you could only spend a weekend here. As far as abuse, and not coming apart and holding together they are second to hardly any. I would agree a 395 with the cc diff, and longer stroke I am sure would have more stump power. Agreed high output oiler may be needed. You guys know me I love both and do have more huskies in the shed, but gotta give credit where due, and the 66 has sure earned some. That being said my 2101 in the shed will out torque them all, and oil as much as you can pump. But then guys say oh there heavy. Well how much torque do you want? Put a light bar on it, and run the 3 side by side, and you wont feel enough difference. Trust me I got 25 years in actual wood. My buddy's dad fell quite a few like this, and it was 56 mag 2, and or 064. 750 homelite with a 48in Canon too. I will ask him, may have dropped it with the 750. But he put alot of big wood on the ground with a 56-64. Then went to a 66. The 66 has had one hell of a long run for being infererior. LOL! Its all good I love em all. P.S the 288xp fell and wore a 42in bar here quite often, and held together. Proof some are not made like they used too, and those who put the 288 in there tialights when the 390 came out, don't forget it too soon. Also the ten year old or more 660 that I have in my shed I will put against any new one, with just a dp Muffler stock. They had more torque, smog has added wieght, and become restrictive. Proof was the lighter faster 046 mag, before the ms series. Hope none take this personal just sharing some of what I have seen with my own eyes here, grew up with veteran loggers, and fallers, learned a hell of alot, and always payed attention to saws they run.
 

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