What size/brand bar should I run on a Stihl 034 AV Super?

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641workmaster

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I recently got a good running Stihl 034 with the original 16" bar. My other saw is a Husky 350 with 18" bar. The Stihl definitely feels like more saw. I use my saws for cutting up firewood and occasionally felling. Most of the logs are about 24" round. I was looking at the 20" bars initially but am interested now in the 25". Can my older saw handle it? or is it just beyond the power band? Also would like information on the better bars out there. From what I read, the Stihl es would be the best but quite up there on price. I'm leaning towards a GB guide bar. One is a 20" Hardtop and the other is a 25" Protop. The price is like half the Stihl. The other more common brands (from what I read) are all sell outs to China or rebranded Oregons. The others are too much $$ for what you get. Replies appreciated.
 
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That saw would pull a 25" with skip chain, a 7 pin sprocket by taking your time. It will like a 20" bar a good bit better.
 
I come from the school of thought that 50cc=16", 60cc=18", and 70cc=20+". I say keep what you have until it wears out then buy another 16 or an 18. Stihl bars give the best bang for your buck.

That's ok if you have alot of saws, but a good 034 will be useable with a 25".
 
Deep down I really have been telling myself that a 25" bar is too much. I really would like something a little longer than 16" and 18". That's why I mentioned 20". I understand the Stihl bars are best but since it's an older saw I don't want to invest a $100+ in bar and chain. I'm more in the budget of $75 out the door.

I'd like to get an opinion on aftermarket bars. I'm not all that interested in what Lowe's, etc. has to offer, something more professional. I'm more interested in a solid steel bar. Not so sure I want a laminated one(Rollomatic e). So many companies and choices out there. Thanks for the comments thus far.
 
I'd say the ideal is 16", 20" is max with full comp chain. 24" is sort of Ok with skip chain, but balance obviously will suffer badly...
 
034 seems happy with 20" bar - also is roller nose the best?????

I run a Stihl roller nose 20" full comp 3/8 .050 Chis. on my 034 and it seem real happy with it. I don't usually use it fully in the wood, as I have larger saws for bigger rounds. I don't think that it would do real well with anything longer unless you were willing to go real easy on the cut. I have a 25" roller nose GB bar on my old Poulan 245 (74cc) and it has proven to be sturdy and reliable.

I have always believed that you get better performance from a roller nose bar due to less friction. Can anybody offer another opinion on this idea?
 
I have been running Forester bars for about 4 years now and have had zero complaints about them. And especially for the price you can't beet them. They offer 20 and 24" bars for your saw in both Oregon style single rivet tip and their Pro-Series 5 rivet tip for right about $30. You could try a 24/25" bar with semi-skip. I don't have any experience with it but I'm sure someone here does.
 
I run an 18" Arbor Max bar from Bailey's on my 034s. Personally I wouldn't go any longer than 20" on that saw. I am really happy with the performance of the private labeled Bailey's bars on several saws. They are made in the USA and after two chains they still have paint on them and no real rail wear.

I'm sure the Stihl bars are higher quality but you should ask yourself how much you are going to use the saw. If the answer isn't almost every day then do you really need a better bar? With a lesser bar you aren't married to bar size. You could probably buy an aftermarket 18-20 and 24" bar for what a Stihl bar costs. Run the 18 or 20 most of the time and keep the 24 and a loop of skip chain for occasional use.
 
I had a guy bring in an 028 with a 28" bar the other day. :taped: Even better was the (nearly cut in half) .325 sprocket with 3/8 chain. :msp_scared:

He got a new sprocket, and will be getting a nice 16 or 18 to replace.

As for the original question, 20" would be a good compromise of your need for longer bar. Make sure you are comparing apples to apples on the bars. The Stihl Rollomatic E bars are less than $50 retail. You could easily get out the door B&C for your $75 here. The ES bars have replaceable tips, and are more expensive. Seldom do I see a bar, even on a commercial saw, that has a worn tip with the rest of the bar still in good shape. Most people just get a new bar when it wears out even if it is an ES bar.
 
I run a Stihl roller nose 20" full comp 3/8 .050 Chis. on my 034 and it seem real happy with it. I don't usually use it fully in the wood, as I have larger saws for bigger rounds. I don't think that it would do real well with anything longer unless you were willing to go real easy on the cut. I have a 25" roller nose GB bar on my old Poulan 245 (74cc) and it has proven to be sturdy and reliable.

I have always believed that you get better performance from a roller nose bar due to less friction. Can anybody offer another opinion on this idea?
I suggest that you really mean sprocket nose instead of roller nose. Roller nose bars have what looks like an idler pulley on the end of the bar. They were common in the old days, but now are used mostly on the hot saws we see in timbersports racing.
 
I recently got a good running Stihl 034 with the original 16" bar. My other saw is a Husky 350 with 18" bar. The Stihl definitely feels like more saw. I use my saws for cutting up firewood and occasionally felling. Most of the logs are about 24" round. I was looking at the 20" bars initially but am interested now in the 25". Can my older saw handle it? or is it just beyond the power band? Also would like information on the better bars out there. From what I read, the Stihl es would be the best but quite up there on price. I'm leaning towards a GB guide bar. One is a 20" Hardtop and the other is a 25" Protop. The price is like half the Stihl. The other more common brands (from what I read) are all sell outs to China or rebranded Oregons. The others are too much $$ for what you get. Replies appreciated.


Your running an 18'' on your husky and you said yourself that the stihl feels like more saw so I would'nt think twice about a 20'' on the stihl. It will pull it fine and I would'nt worry about the tip either, the saw will run it fine.

They guys on here will want you buying a new $750.00 saw to pull that 20'' bar but we both know you don't need to spend that kind of money to get the job done. Hang out here long enough and you will be spending it though...
 
16-20 if it were mine. I had a 20 on my 360 and was just fine. Seems like the perfect balance on those saws are the 16-18's though.
 
the 034 super is a 62cc saw. i had a 25" on mine and it worked just fine. i had skip tooth but i think it would pull full comp without a problem. i got mine for free because a buddy got sick of trying to figure out a running lean condition it had. turned out fuel line was so swollen at the carb that it didn't seal worth a @#%&. was leaking gas there. couldn't believe he didn't see it. replaced line and it was golden. i sold that saw and wish i hadn't.
 
I recently got a good running Stihl 034 with the original 16" bar. My other saw is a Husky 350 with 18" bar. The Stihl definitely feels like more saw. I use my saws for cutting up firewood and occasionally felling. Most of the logs are about 24" round. I was looking at the 20" bars initially but am interested now in the 25". Can my older saw handle it? or is it just beyond the power band? Also would like information on the better bars out there. From what I read, the Stihl es would be the best but quite up there on price. I'm leaning towards a GB guide bar. One is a 20" Hardtop and the other is a 25" Protop. The price is like half the Stihl. The other more common brands (from what I read) are all sell outs to China or rebranded Oregons. The others are too much $$ for what you get. Replies appreciated.
I have a 25 on my 034 and it works fine
 
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