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Three 2" round bars of 6061-T6, had I known just how little room I had to play with I probably would have gone 2-1/4" to begin with. I finished out at 1.962 since my tightest cylinders are 1.964 so it still only left me having to take off .038. I was able to center find pretty close using a sliding square but the ends where not cut that true from the saw so it through me off of center to begin with. Next time I will use a height gauge and hit closer to true center.
 

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The first pic here I had ran a pass to smooth the outside and used my homemade center carrier (works great) and I'm getting ready to true up the end and get it center drilled for the live center. The second pic is the final pass, I'm taking off just under .002 to get my final dimension.
 

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And last. Test cut on an old cylinder. This was the Huztl cylinder I was testing on last year, I honestly expected the base to be way out of wack since that is what I hear about them but to clean up the base of the cylinder actually only required me to take .003 off to true it with the cylinder bore. I have a Mako cylinder that should be here next week to practice with once I get my numbers back down again, I plan to spend a bit more time working with the duration timings this time. I still need to get something to help when working the cylinder inside and a CC specialties is still out of my range so I'm figuring on still going with the dental drill and a Contra head, it's slower but will still get the same thing in the end.
 

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I guess it's about time, I have been threatening Yota that I was going to get started on this for a year or better. :dancing:
Yota, it's everything my little 6" lathe can do to back the cross slide out and get the base on a 372xp cylinder so in two months I will be ordering the Precision Mathews PM-1228VF-LB.
 
Just started making the 45mm mandrel for the CS-590 that I will be doing after I get done with the 372, I'll have to wait until I get the cylinder off to do the final turning on the mandrel to get it to the size I need.

No wonder they want so much to do a port job on an engine. It's not easy and it's NOT cheap even going the cheap route.
 

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Bone head move on my part. I ordered a 52mm cylinder :angry:. I had to make another order this time I ordered two of the 50mm kits and made sure I didn't pull a "Lost-One". I have no idea what the numbers will come out yet or how well it will act (these are my test cylinders, I have two new Husky cylinders I will do my final ports on). I also ordered a piece of 2-1/4" 6061 T6511 to make a mandrel for the 52mm when I get around to it.
 

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I had received some parts to finish up my Junk Yard Dog SP125 (thanks again to JJ, Vinny, and Lee) plus a few bits that I found while moving stuff over to the new building that were better that what I'd used the first time 'round.

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I also noticed the fuel tank was weeping in a couple of spots so I change it out for one that I'd cleaned up and given the Red Kote treatment a few weeks ago.

It is all back together now and ready to cut wood.

Mark
 
The 61 from hell is leaving my bench! A new clutch spring solved the chain’s perma-spin and it runs like a champ! The old spring was at least an inch longer than the new one and was far weaker. Also, I found the old clutch side seal from my 048 in a box of parts and figured I’d share it with y’all.
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I finally got this on the bench 4 years after removing the carb. I got it for free from my old neighbor with a bunch of tilts. Doesn’t look like it was used much. Piston looks new. Had no spark, cleaned the points, all set now. Rinsed the tank, new fuel and primer lines, quick carb clean and it will only pop. Ordered a kit and I’ll ultra sonic the carb. These old Jiffy’s are the best. You can post hole with them too.E7418EB4-5715-4DCF-90B8-153609B9A257.jpeg299ED4E2-78CF-4F78-8AF1-4D4DC13049A2.jpeg
 
I put the new 6 speed in my car, detailed it and put up another new canopy...
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Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

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