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Almost wonder if previous owner ran used motor oil in it?
Im thinking cooking oil and then it sat till it set/hardened.
I tried all types of cleaners, including gas and diesel brake cleaners soap and water, royal purple.
So wire brush, picks, scrapers and all that stuff, sanded the plastics and satin clear coated them.
Dirtiest saw I have ever come across,, but for $15 im happy.
 
Im thinking cooking oil and then it sat till it set/hardened.
I tried all types of cleaners, including gas and diesel brake cleaners soap and water, royal purple.
So wire brush, picks, scrapers and all that stuff, sanded the plastics and satin clear coated them.
Dirtiest saw I have ever come across,, but for $15 im happy.
I’ve been there. A heat gun, scrapers, and swearing was involved.
 
OK.. update time! My electrical project went very smooth and with no incidents. The bottom box on the 2 box pole was for distribution purposes as I could not lengthen the underground wires.

Only dealing with 120V in this case but the feeder comes from the main property supply box off of a 200 amp breaker, requiring shutting down the whole property on 94*F plus days of the week not an option. I may add a smaller, dedicated breaker protected feeder box in the future.

I did all "end of the line" work first to minimize working with energized conductors. Which was only 1 conductor at 120V as the VERY last connection with 1000V insulated tools and gloves. Everything in these boxes are 600V rated, up to 200 amps.

New ground rods at every location along with separating the neutral and ground.

Yes, I have been through the NEC classes and held an apprentice license for 3 yrs until I went into a different direction of employment. No worries there as all is to code as per living in the country, outside of city limits. Trust me.... it is safer, looks and functions way better than before.
 
Now, the number 2 concrete saw is fully assembled and running but needs a bit more tuning. Waiting on throttle interlock lever and spring with the proper size screw also.

Mistress #3 350 is waiting on some small parts and fuel tank/rear handle cleanup. Did get the 346XP cyl here waiting. I may try that idea of making a copper shim for that Titanikel cyl on another saw maybe??? Hmmmm.... good idea J D!

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OK.. update time! My electrical project went very smooth and with no incidents. The bottom box on the 2 box pole was for distribution purposes as I could not lengthen the underground wires.

Only dealing with 120V in this case but the feeder comes from the main property supply box off of a 200 amp breaker, requiring shutting down the whole property on 94*F plus days of the week not an option. I may add a smaller, dedicated breaker protected feeder box in the future.

I did all "end of the line" work first to minimize working with energized conductors. Which was only 1 conductor at 120V as the VERY last connection with 1000V insulated tools and gloves. Everything in these boxes are 600V rated, up to 200 amps.

New ground rods at every location along with separating the neutral and ground.

Yes, I have been through the NEC classes and held an apprentice license for 3 yrs until I went into a different direction of employment. No worries there as all is to code as per living in the country, outside of city limits. Trust me.... it is safer, looks and functions way better than before.
The issue isn't with working on live fittings, any competent sparky should be able to do that safely. Try explaining to an office full of people on computers you're "just going to start flipping breakers off" to isolate a feed... 9 times out of 10 that's not practical & you do it live.
Difference is, with what you're doing ALL those feeds should be protected & easily isolated. NONE of the wiring you pictured earlier should be run directly of a 200A breaker. I know regulations vary from place to place, but here protection fuses must be no more than 2x the rated capacity of the conductor & anything newly installed outside must be RCD/RCBO protected. I didn't see much I would rate for even 100A.
Sounds like you've just tapped onto the main feed to the property after the primary breaker... Get that sub-box installed ASAP. If something unexpected happens to one of those cables (animal, vehicle, shovel, etc) it will be a disaster.
 
The issue isn't with working on live fittings, any competent sparky should be able to do that safely. Try explaining to an office full of people on computers you're "just going to start flipping breakers off" to isolate a feed... 9 times out of 10 that's not practical & you do it live.
Difference is, with what you're doing ALL those feeds should be protected & easily isolated. NONE of the wiring you pictured earlier should be run directly of a 200A breaker. I know regulations vary from place to place, but here protection fuses must be no more than 2x the rated capacity of the conductor & anything newly installed outside must be RCD/RCBO protected. I didn't see much I would rate for even close to 100A.
Sounds like you've just tapped onto the main feed to the property after the primary breaker... Get that sub-box installed ASAP. If something unexpected happens to one of those cables (animal, vehicle, shovel, etc) it will be a disaster.

You comparing where others live to our rules and regs?
Ever been to San Francisco and looked up at the overhead spiders web of supply wires? Most of that grid would make you cringe! :laugh:
 
Another saw off the bench...this is a 440 I hopped up for someone. Cut the squish, decked the cylinder, ported, advanced timing, etc. My goal was just a bad-azz work saw...these older Stihls are pretty straightforward to mod.

The owner should be really stoked. It's quite a bit stronger in the cut compared It's stock self. Very responsive power too...it's the kinda saw that you can fall a tree with and then zip the limbs off as fast as you can move.20220801_203803.jpg20220801_203756.jpg20220801_203741.jpg20220806_180054.jpg
 
Was donated a stray dumpster fire candidate this week. Needs the usual..... fuel lines with banjo bolt style fuel filter, carb kit, primer bulb, spark plug and remove fuel tank to clean it out.

Gobs of carbon in this poor thing. Half the piston ring was carbon stuck. Freed up with carb cleaner then WD40 final rinse. Exh. port 1/3 the way closed with build up as was the spark screen in muffler. It still had the H/L limiters from the factory on the needles but man...... the low was out 2 3/4 turns while the high was at 1.5 turns!

Waiting on intake gasket and air filter for final assembly. If it runs like **** after all this, I will introduce it to the barrel of one of my riffles! LOL

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Mistress #3 gained some weight today!.... for testing purposes anyways. 346XP cyl. with no base gasket was getting squish at .019-.020". A bit low for my taste with such a pricey top end kit so I think I will stick in the .018 gasket I have on hand.

Cleaned up the handle assembly and installed the new fuel line with filter and tank vents. New tank cap also.

I did have to source some shorter cyl. base bolts as the 346 base is not near as thick as the stock 350 base. Went from stock 30mm OAL to 25mm OAL. Local farm supply actually had these in stock for $0.89 each. SCORE! No waiting.

Had to clean up some casting flash on the flywheel and sand a few thousands off so it wouldn't hit the transfer port. No outside cyl. port grinding needed this time.

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Mistress #3 gained some weight today!.... for testing purposes anyways. 346XP cyl. with no base gasket was getting squish at .019-.020". A bit low for my taste with such a pricey top end kit so I think I will stick in the .018 gasket I have on hand.

Cleaned up the handle assembly and installed the new fuel line with filter and tank vents. New tank cap also.

I did have to source some shorter cyl. base bolts as the 346 base is not near as thick as the stock 350 base. Went from stock 30mm OAL to 25mm OAL. Local farm supply actually had these in stock for $0.89 each. SCORE! No waiting.

Had to clean up some casting flash on the flywheel and sand a few thousands off so it wouldn't hit the transfer port. No outside cyl. port grinding needed this time.

View attachment 1009433 View attachment 1009434
As much as you tweak with saws and change out cylinders, you need to get yourself a bench lathe. I'll be totally honest, a lathe makes little financial sense...but it is handy to be able to measure a cylinder and decide to chuck it up on the lathe and take a few thousandths off the base or squish band.

Be forewarned though...a bench lathe is the gateway drug into the world of modding saw cylinders. I had my bench lathe for only a few months before I decided I needed the 12x36 Grizzly lol. Before you know it, you'll have Foredom grinders and a milling machine...that's my next purchase, I'm on the lookout for an affordable mill.
 
Trust me SR, I know. I would love a lathe and a mill. So damn handy for bout anything you need to make or repair. I may have a chance at both from my place of employment as the new maint. "kid" doesn't know how to use either. Plus, they now farm out most of the machine work that needs done anymore. Sad....

I would need a phase converter to power them cuz they 480V 3ph. The lathe is a Clausing, 72" bed and the mill is a Comet with auto feeds added. They probably will want stupid money for them even though they are older but not ancient.

Mistress 3 will be my last full build for a while as I need to sell all the others already built! LOL .... althouh I do have a Rancher 55 basket case to mess with sometime.... Bwaaaahhhh!
 
with no base gasket was getting squish at .019-.020". A bit low for my taste with such a pricey top end kit so I think I will stick in the .018 gasket I have on hand.
I would've called that about perfect (after triple checking it)... might get 1 or 2 thou more by giving the squish band & top of the piston a good polishing too.
I did have to source some shorter cyl. base bolts as the 346 base is not near as thick as the stock 350 base. Went from stock 30mm OAL to 25mm OAL. Local farm supply actually had these in stock for $0.89 each. SCORE! No waiting.
Be mindful that bolts/screws etc are not all created equal & inferior ones may stretch & come loose
 
This one I was kind of excited to do, I'm building an 064 for someone else. It came with a brand new OEM top end in the box that I'll mill/port. It actually doesn't look like hit has a bunch of hours on it, especially for the age(1991?) That being said, it looks like it's had some really "talented" mechanics work on it in its life. The flywheel cover/recoil is an aftermarket 660 piece and doesn't actually engage the flywheel. The piston had a big divot in the top that I'm guessing was caused by a thread-in piston stop and an impact wrench.

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