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Nothing too cool that I'm working on right now, just that 192t that someone wanted me to "just tune." Right away I figured it had an air leak...looking through the intake port convinced me to just dive into a complete tear down before I wasted any time.

Good call on my part...judging by the gobs of RTV inside and outside of the motor, someone probably had been inside this before. It technically did run, but the motor is roached...piston and cylinder scored.

I gotta figure out what the owner wants to do. He was leaning towards buying a new Echo 2511t anyway, this would be a good reason to. IMO, these clamshell Stihls aren't worth rebuilding with OEM parts and I'm not sure about going with an aftermarket cylinder on a clamshell. The ones I've seen in the past had terrible squish #'s and it's not something I can correct on the lathe.
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Still waiting on parts for the 064, so I put the finishing touches on the muffler. The muffler was a bit mashed, so I got it straighter, but not perfect. Built a flange on the inside of the muffler. Cleaned up the deflector, etc...it's a triple port now. Going to be loud AF...just how the owner wants it lol.
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Almost forgot, got a friends PP446 pole saw with about 4hrs on it he says. I got it to run but not tune and hold a good tune properly. Pressurized the crankcase and found the o-ring seal leaking on the carb adapter/rear housing. Sourced a NOS seal and gasket kit on evilbay for $10. We shall see!!!

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Picked up another 020AV Super the other day. May be too pretty to keep :p Seems all OE, domed piston, saw didn't get much use during its life. Waiting on a few minor parts and a carb kit now. SN shows up as early to mid 80s.
I really need to clean the bench :p
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Tonight's project...modding my 2511t. I'll just post the before pics for now...I still need to reassemble and I'm not sure if this saw is going to be bad-azz or a bust. I went pretty aggressive with removing some material in the ports, so we'll see. Also decked the cylinder in this one, but did not cut the squish band.
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Tonight's project...modding my 2511t. I'll just post the before pics for now...I still need to reassemble and I'm not sure if this saw is going to be bad-azz or a bust. I went pretty aggressive with removing some material in the ports, so we'll see. Also decked the cylinder in this one, but did not cut the squish band.
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Wow 😀
I did 2 of those but just muffler and slight time advance. I’m not qualified to do any real porting…I just clean out carbon and any casting junk. Made a big difference. Tree service owner was happy. He’s switching from 201s to the Ecco’s.
 
Wow 😀
I did 2 of those but just muffler and slight time advance. I’m not qualified to do any real porting…I just clean out carbon and any casting junk. Made a big difference. Tree service owner was happy. He’s switching from 201s to the Ecco’s.
I previously gutted and opened up the muffler in this saw...that alone was a game changer on it. Curiosity finally got the better of me and I decided to tear into it. There is some weird stuff going on with the factory porting...I'm not saying I know better than an Echo engineer, but I think there is more power to be had in this saw. Either that or I end up having to buy a new long block lol.

My other climbing saw is a 201tcm. It's the new version of the 201, but it was still a dog in stock form. I did really minor machine and port work to it, like really minor, but that little bit made an incredible difference. It was torquey before, but not zippy...it was a terrible limbing saw. I can see it not being a big deal when working in broad trees...but in conifers, where you have a bunch of limbs that you're zipping off as fast as you can move, it was very annoying. Now it spools up like a 200t. I like that saw a lot, but I just prefer the weight of the 2511. If I can get similar power out of the 2511, that'll be a big deal for me...I might have to tear back into the 201 and see what else I can do to it...
 
I previously gutted and opened up the muffler in this saw...that alone was a game changer on it. Curiosity finally got the better of me and I decided to tear into it. There is some weird stuff going on with the factory porting...I'm not saying I know better than an Echo engineer, but I think there is more power to be had in this saw. Either that or I end up having to buy a new long block lol.

My other climbing saw is a 201tcm. It's the new version of the 201, but it was still a dog in stock form. I did really minor machine and port work to it, like really minor, but that little bit made an incredible difference. It was torquey before, but not zippy...it was a terrible limbing saw. I can see it not being a big deal when working in broad trees...but in conifers, where you have a bunch of limbs that you're zipping off as fast as you can move, it was very annoying. Now it spools up like a 200t. I like that saw a lot, but I just prefer the weight of the 2511. If I can get similar power out of the 2511, that'll be a big deal for me...I might have to tear back into the 201 and see what else I can do to it...
Not to mention the huge price difference
 
Not to mention the huge price difference

For sure. The big problem with Echo and climbing saws, is just the dealer network. There isn't any Echo dealers/shops nearby and the closest places to me that sell Echos, don't stock parts for them. My tree service buddies will never stop running Stihl, just because they can break something on a tuesday, pick up the parts that afternoon, and have the saw back in service by wednesday morning. I've got a couple of climbing saws, so I do have a backup...but not everyone has that luxury. It also helps that I don't do it full-time and don't mind waiting for parts to arrive from online.

The Echos are pretty reliable, but climbing and work saws just lead hard lives. Last time I climbed with my 201, I ended up with a severely bent AV spring...I didn't even know how it happened lol.
 
@Lightning Performance

36" full comp in oak was not even a challenge for it on first tank testing out new piston kit.

Weighed PHO with as much bar oil as I could get out. Mix drained, chips etc cleaned from under covers etc. Cover on with both spikes and bar nuts.

Had a dealer weigh 2 dry out of the box G395 G660 too.

Have oem weights too. The oem spikes being bigger also weigh 6ozs more and the case protector add to the oem weight PHO too.

G660 and oem both half too.

OEM from other folks saved from here. 2 PHO dry from dealer.



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@Lightning Performance

36" full comp in oak was not even a challenge for it on first tank testing out new piston kit.

Weighed PHO with as much bar oil as I could get out. Mix drained, chips etc cleaned from under covers etc. Cover on with both spikes and bar nuts.

Had a dealer weigh 2 dry out of the box G395 G660 too.

Have oem weights too. The oem spikes being bigger also weigh 6ozs more and the case protector add to the oem weight PHO too.

G660 and oem both half too.

OEM from other folks saved from here. 2 PHO dry from dealer.



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What jugs are running on the clones?
Some people know some don't. That makes a difference in plating. I prefer anything but soft chrome.
 
I never ran this particular saw, but it's similar/same to my 066 that I modded. Maybe it's a bit louder w/the baffle removed...regardless, it's a restriction close to the port, so I figure it's best to see it go.
I cut the end out of my 66 baffle and it rattles my brains out with plugs and muffs after about three hours. The front port is brutal. Those CDN covers have a very large exit hole. I might move it or add a much bigger front cover deflector. Those bark boxes and WCS covers are too much for many places around me local. They're fine out in the woods felling but not great for urban stuff or constant bucking imho.
 
I cut the end out of my 66 baffle and it rattles my brains out with plugs and muffs after about three hours. The front port is brutal. Those CDN covers have a very large exit hole. I might move it or add a much bigger front cover deflector. Those bark boxes and WCS covers are too much for many places around me local. They're fine out in the woods felling but not great for urban stuff or constant bucking imho.

This saw is going to be used out in the woods, away from populated areas, so sound isn't a huge concern. It also has to have legal spark arrestor screen, so I go a little large on the openings to make up for the screen.
 
This saw is going to be used out in the woods, away from populated areas, so sound isn't a huge concern. It also has to have legal spark arrestor screen, so I go a little large on the openings to make up for the screen.
I put a screen back in mine but it made little difference over the front exit. It did blowout the screen in a few days this spring. Being mounted out front let it vibrate more. Maybe the larger cover will tone it down some. If not I'm adding an internal forward plate wrapped with screen to silence the high pitch. A screen should absorb more sound than a plate does.
 
What jugs are running on the clones?
Some people know some don't. That makes a difference in plating. I prefer anything but soft chrome.
These are just 26$ Farmertec p+c kits that came on saw. Piston was out of spec and why stuck a Sawsalvage moly 21 $ piston kit in it.
Sawsalvage has a real nice looking p+c set for 70$

Never paid attention to what they claim coating is on either. IMO just look it up.
 
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