Brand new chain - no worries there. I think it's gotta be oil/gas ratio + carb adjustments. My previous carb adjustment (within limiters) had the H jet at 12,300 rpm, which was enough for smallish logs. The monster log from the other day obviously needed less rpm.Good morning all.
I have read the entire thread. HarleyT made one comment about the "Oil thread" (funny) and I'm amazed that nobody has mentioned the fact that resistance causes HEAT. All are talking about oil mix, etc. Nobody has asked the OP if his chain is sharp and in top notch condition. Just curious.
I run a Wood Mizer LT40HD. If I hit just one little fence staple, piece of fence, etc., it's time for a new blade. Ya never know what you will find in a log. JMHO OT
What's the justification for not using 50:1 for milling?
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Have a great day. OT StihlPotlicker
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i think it is because he runs a Husky.Good morning all.
I have read the entire thread. HarleyT made one comment about the "Oil thread" (funny) and I'm amazed that nobody has mentioned the fact that resistance causes HEAT. All are talking about oil mix, etc. Nobody has asked the OP if his chain is sharp and in top notch condition. Just curious.
I run a Wood Mizer LT40HD. If I hit just one little fence staple, piece of fence, etc., it's time for a new blade. Ya never know what you will find in a log. JMHO OT
. i was milling a red oak with my 084 and 60"b/c and i hit nails and kept milling.Lend me your 084, I'll burn it up for youi think it is because he runs a Husky.
I highly doubt it just kept trucking along like nothing happened.i think it is because he runs a Husky.
In a two cycle there is such a thing as oil migration time. The higher the load and RPM the faster the oils moves through the motor. Milling, buy its nature is high load and rpm hence running more oil is beneficial.
I would set the carb 500 rpms or so below factory spec. It should four stroke when unloaded after a long cut. If it doesn't richen it up until it does so. I would then run no less than a 32:1 ratio and probably a 24:1 ratio using a good quality FD oil.
I would set the carb 500 rpms or so below factory spec. It should four stroke when unloaded after a long cut. If it doesn't richen it up until it does so. I would then run no less than a 32:1 ratio and probably a 24:1 ratio using a good quality FD oil.
StihlPotlicker
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oh it slowed down yes. but I milled 2 more slabs before I saw the nails, Don't mill at dusk lol. but I was really green, and was just trying to get it done.
I hate unexpected nails....
StihlPotlicker
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ok, 3g and you can. I know what I haveLend me your 084, I'll burn it up for you
StihlPotlicker
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yup, i think the full house chain helped, if it would have been a skip, I would have, noticed sooner i am sure.
Thank you...
I have plenty of large cc saws that I refuse to mill with. Just too painful to watch and too expensive to repair-myself.
To answer the OP, yes I would use more oil than 50:1 for milling. Some instructions even recommend this. I use 40:1 for everything now, even when using canned fuel, I top up with oil. Use good FD rated oil (some of the Stihl synthetic oils are rubbish) fresh petrol and make sure you tune the engine to the new fuel. Finally treat your saw well - warm the saw up, don't push the bar in, keep the chain sharp and use an auxiliary bar oiler. Get the biggest saw you can.
If you do all this, you cannot overheat the saw! I've been milling for six years now with a 20 year old 088 and the piston looks like new.
If you do all this, you cannot overheat the saw! I've been milling for six years now with a 20 year old 088 and the piston looks like new.
Which Stihl oils are rubbish? I use the HP ultra stuff, because it's biodegradeable.
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The HP ultra is not great, and is overpriced for what it is. There are plenty of other oils out there that are better quality, cause less issues, and cost less.
Thanks for the info. I had no idea that Stihl ultra (which I use) is only JASO-FB certified while what I need is JASO-FD. This actually might have been part of my problem. My tech (who put in a new top end within 24 hours!) said that the fuel in the tank looked kinda off, but he had no idea what that meant. It's possible that the Ultra oil, which is biodegradeable, did indeed biodegrade a bit in the 1.5 months that the oil/gas mix has been sitting around in my 5-gallon jug. Thoughts?
Biodegrading isn't an issue as long as it's mixed with fuel and 1.5 months isn't terribly long.
And yes, Stihl Ultra oil is garbage at a premium price.
Yes stihl ultra is not good. There are plenty of videos showing many issues such as insufficient oiling in the crankcase.
I'm not sure having a biodegradable oil is required either - remember two stroke oil gets burned. Personally I currently like FD rated semi synthetic oil made by Oregon.
It didn't biodegrade in the tank, it'll biodegrade in the environment.
The issue with 50:1 is the same as draining 3.5 quarts of oil out of your car and driving it around on 1.5 quarts of oil. It might be just fine, even for a long time. You're just operating so close to the edge of disaster that it's basically inevitable you'll go over the edge at some point.
50:1 is perfectly fine for most people in normal use, but milling is being over the edge into disaster all the time.
The issue with 50:1 is the same as draining 3.5 quarts of oil out of your car and driving it around on 1.5 quarts of oil. It might be just fine, even for a long time. You're just operating so close to the edge of disaster that it's basically inevitable you'll go over the edge at some point.
50:1 is perfectly fine for most people in normal use, but milling is being over the edge into disaster all the time.
Pretty well known to cause severe carbon in saws. Works well in a bike.
Original Techniplate works great in saws
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