Where's WYK been, and what trouble is he making?

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IMG_2419.JPG Now this one ticked me off, I bored it and bored the heart but it still split, may have had more to do with the crotch at the top of the tree. This pic is after taking 20' of butt log off.
I've had this discussion last year with several members and the general consensus is ash is more suseptible to splitting than some other species especially when frozen.
 
Just now got to read your post Ron. Heard a bit about D.Dent. I'll reread it again then post on it.
I can see why bitzer does it for turning a tree. It's a bit of a double edge sword (no pun) but it should start to rotate in quicker at a depth
 
View attachment 718007 Now this one ticked me off, I bored it and bored the heart but it still split, may have had more to do with the crotch at the top of the tree. This pic is after taking 20' of butt log off.
I've had this discussion last year with several members and the general consensus is ash is more suseptible to splitting than some other species especially when frozen.
You mean you got two 20' rippers off the butt. Yeah that sucks. Can you still sell it or you saw your own? They can sell quarter sawn or slabs of cedar.Price goes down from half to quarter to slabs.

IKD, Doesn't seem right that it should chair even if it had a full split.

Did it barber chair or split after?
 
I cut a 20’ log and then this in the picture was another 12’. Didn’t barber chair. When I was bucking it she let go.
I’ll still send it to the mill if they want it or I have a farmer up the road with a couple woodmizers I take what won’t grade well to cut some boards.
Most of my experience was all beech and hard maple, but with the ash borer having gone through our area I’ve spent the last two winter cutting ash. That was the first one I had split on me but it had a lot of bf being over 30” on the stump so rather disappointing.
 
... How many you guys barber chaired?

My experience is so limited that it shouldn't count for much as likely most here fall more in a good month than I have in forty years. That said I have experienced only two significant barber chairs in my life (i.e. good size trees and over the head splits). The first was forty years ago when I cut a 20" or so red oak on a steep bank with a 38cc saw wearing a 16" bar. Happened in a blink of an eye. Split 10' or so up. The stem stayed on the tree; if it hadn't I probably wouldn't be posting today. Scared me enough to purchase Dent's book which was in Bailey's catalog. At the time his book with all the illustrations made little sense to me so I stuck it on the shelf, but I gave up the "farmer's" back cut and bought a 70cc saw. I still thought you just cut until the tree fell. I didn't understand the purpose of a hinge. I didn't have any wedges and had never seen them used. One day I cut a small locust (8" or so) all the way through and it just closed the kerf behind the cut and stood there. I was able to man handle it over but thought there must be more to it - how do you plan an escape path when the tree could fall in any direction. Another time I cut a 15" or so tree completely in two, just to have it fall exactly backwards from where intended. As you can imagine, I was playing Russian roulette with a chainsaw. The only thing I got proficient at was fence posting hung trees because I hung a lot. After an accident with a bow saw that could have killed me save for my father teaching me how to stand, my wood cutting tapered off for many years which is probably another reason why I am still here. Anyway, fast forward thirty years and while cutting saw timber for a local farmer (the one and only time I have cut wood for lumber for someone) I chaired a white oak. Not quite as dramatic or quick as the first, but still over my head. Likely if I had simply cut faster it wouldn't have chaired, but the farmer was watching me and I was hesitant at the trigger. Bunch of nice boards were lost. If it had come off the stem and if I had stayed in place it could have squashed me. Of course I have had dozens of technical chairs - stems that split for a foot or so. That first one has stuck with me and I never want to experience one like it again - no warning and no time to react. I say no warning, but there were all kinds of warning flags if I had known anything about falling. Dad taught me about the dangers of a bow saw but not one thing about falling. Nor did he let me hang around when he fell trees.

Ron
 
Okay, my head was hurting before but staring at some of Mr. Dent’s Dutchman illustrations has it spinning. Nonetheless Mr. Dent says to use a deeper face with a heavy forward lean even though it increases the tension and thus the risk of a barber chair. Though he doesn’t say which is best - side boring vs “side notching” (appears to be the same as a Coos), he does say that face boring is the least desirable due to increased chances of pinching your bar and barber chairing. He says that the cause of barberchairs is the back fibers as severed start to “fall” while the forward fibers though under increasingly more pressure are not falling thus a split develops between the moving and the non-moving fibers. He doesn’t relate the split to compression. This is actually the process I thought was occurring but to cut a deeper face that actually increases the tension and the risk of barber chairing seems counterintuitive and it appears contrary to the BC materials. But I think it all brings us back to bitzer’s time analysis, the quicker you cut the less likely the chance of a barberchair and the less you have to cut the quicker you can cut. If you want to take your time then I guess you just need to go side boring and cut the tension wood front to back. Interesting side note. - Dent doesn’t describe the use of a trigger when side boring.

In all three methods, Dent recommends nipping the corners of the hinge.

Most all of my reasoning expressed here is based just on book knowledge. Your real world experience is welcome.

Ron
Haven't read the BC stuff for 12-13 years. I know it through and through and all the loopholes except all the legislation crap. BC forest safety council (BCFSC)

Then you have Work safe BC.
The story behind the council is they were a bunch of west coast fallers/ maybe some went management. Work safe BC threw a bunch of money at them and said fix the deaths in industry if you say you can? About 50 per year was just excepted at one time. Not all that long ago either.
Things got a lot better,, Improving though the '90's and up to when BCFSC started in ought 5. The deaths went from around 12 per year; and in their first year, I believe 38 where killed. No reason for it to triple that year as it should have gotten better.
In 2014 was the lowers fatality rate at 3. Friend on mine was one of the fallers on his last shift before Christmas of that year.
2 yrs out of those( last) 14. No fallers died.

What I was going to say was some one posted a vid on undercut types, endorsed by both and in writing it said some techniques may be modified for filming purposes?
Lol I counted 15 things that were not by the book. I recall a few were close to the same thing but technically different. On the coast there is such a thing as "overcoming a falling difficulty" It's pretty modified from the book.
As long as you are asked about it then you have to have a story.
(I was just going to say I was filming and it was modified for filming purposes....of course nobody ever asked...j/k)
As long as they see the stump quality there. and a few other things and answer questions and demonstrate when it's good.
Our Supervisers are Certified Fallers and qualified Supervisers.
Someone Qualified from the BCFSC will spend two days to Certified them.
So they are there to uphold the Council's program.

The book says UP TO 50% undercut on a 'stubby' By book definition that is a 3:1 ratio height to Dia. A danger tree (snag) is 3m or (10') and taller.
So a 3.3 ft x 10 ft would be by book. (3:1 ratio)
You can get a lot around the 6' x 10,12, 14ft range. Some are leaning up the hill pretty hard. Even strait up and down (without lean) it will not fall over even if you cut it off it would remain 'sky bound'
I go 70 or 85% if it leaning up the hill. to send it down hill It was good fun when the back crumbled and you are still below on the down side doing your undercut. There is no really safe side. You can't tell what they will do at that point.
My undercut is done with a very slight angle first and could be 5ft deep. My opening is only going to be 2-3 inches.
and if I miss a bit then I just bore the wedge out. Then get up top and touch the back and hope it's still not coming up hill and then I back bar the evidence of holding wood. on the stump.

Its all you need to topple it over and its fast.

I never made a habit or not assessing the back and having them crumbled down to many times obviously.


Anyway BC say.
"As much as it will take but not greater than 25%" for leaner undercut

Good barber chair stories btw.

I will have to write a post on my times. One freaky one also.
 
"D. Dents book."
(Srry I got side traked above) ^^


Did he actually say a deeper U/C increases B/Chairs and 'pressure' (I know it does as do you) or is that you saying it? Why I asked was...
There was no justification given on his part...was there? Personally have never been able to. Unless they are bigger cedar that's not split. My experience tells me not to look for trouble. You get to know what you can and can't do.

So "side borring" and "Side notching "

So a bore vs Coos bay you figure???

Well I would think a side notch as I know it and was taught to me in '92 on Cedar; that being what BCFSC actually say to do as their 'number 1' and that is
put your under cut 45° off the lean when possible. ??
I wouldn't expect an old book to say 'trigger' perhaps not even back strap?
Not very detailed in important stuff it would appear?

"Face bore " IDK could mean bore from the back of the tree?

Edit: ^^ He said it's B. Chair prone ? Just not sure what is meant.
 
"D. Dents book."
(Srry I got side traked above) ^^


Did he actually say a deeper U/C increases B/Chairs and 'pressure' (I know it does as do you) or is that you saying it? Why I asked was...
...

Not in one sentence, but in a paragraph beginning on page 100 and ending on page 101.

Ron
 
His comments about heart gutting are on page 105. So is his conclusion that the "(l)ess tensioned wood to cut through means less chances of a barber-chair occurring." He uses the terms "expedite the backcut" to describe the purpose of the three methods he addresses. Pretty much the same thing I think bitzer is saying - the quicker you can get through the backcut the better.

Ron
 
The funny thing about his and a few other european folks I'm aware of are running west coast style saws, long bars full-3/4 wrap bars, yet I keep having folks on my you tube vids tell me that its just not done in europe and the east coast, that its silly, overcompensation, rediculous etc etc etc, a real man could do that with a 42cc saw and a 7" bar blah blah blah

Meanwhile... more and more folks are using west coast set ups every year so?

As another aside - in Canada, you are required to have a full wrap handle and longer bar to reduce back issues, help with limbing, etc by their version of OSHA.
 
I've had entire jobs like 500 White oaks and hickories all leaning hard with huge heavy tops roughly 50 semi loads of wood and all of them cut the way I'm describing without a single chair. I used to use a shallow face cut on the hard leaners, the problem is getting that wood behind the hinge cut. Because now with a shallow face removed you've got all that wood sitting down tight just behind. You've allowed time for the tree to lean ahead more. So many times had I pinched a bar in the past trying to bore trees that I'm describing. Some you just can't get them cut close enough to the hinge without then sitting down. And on some white oak and especially hickory anything more then 1/2" of hinge seems like too much. I will have to dig up some pictures of what I'm talking about.

Think about where a tree usually chairs. Typically it's in the front 60% of the tree where all the compression wood is in a hard leaner. It doesn't chair in the back 40% in the tension wood unless there are other factors at play.
 
Are you referring to the infoflips being dfferent as well?

http://www.bcforestsafe.org/training/faller_certification/resources.html

No! Absolutely not. You could about pass your 50 question exam on the flip books.
If it says BC Fallers Training Standards,
as it all will then that's good.
The video was about Certified felling cuts that Work safe put out. The front said " Some things May be modified"
Perhaps it just appeared BCFSC endorsed it.
I see it's under Work Safe BC which hands down OH&S regs. That's is actually the government run insurance company.
Under their regulations (OHS sec 26 which is in the back of the BC Fallers Training Standards Fallers log book.
It says work SafeBC are minimum standards.
We are encouraged to hold ourselfs to a higher standard. Or adhere to the highest standard. Hence: BC Fallers Training Standards. So there is a little grey area between them.
Also the highest standard could be my Mother because she still dresses me.
So at work I wear ear muffs with ear plugs, glasses under my screen and chaps over my Fallers pants....lol

'Funny' part is you could actually make someone do that or go home. Haha

I have seen crews drive 2 days from Vancouver Island to the top of BC or Northern Albert to cut Seismic lines in Gas & oil or all the regular good ol' Irish boys from Newfoundland, drive for 5 days to start the season then fail equipment audit because the client wants 4100 FPM threshold in there Fallers pants. People show up with brand new 3900 FPM. So the crew looses a day and May have to drive an hour or 2 one way to a saw shop.

Its happend to me too. I run 3600 FPM on the coast without wrap around kevlar calve protection. That's Work safe BC Standards.
 
I used to use a shallow face cut on the hard leaners, the problem is getting that wood behind the hinge cut. Because now with a shallow face removed you've got all that wood sitting down tight just behind. You've allowed time for the tree to lean ahead more. So many times had I pinched a bar in the past trying to bore trees that I'm describing. Some you just can't get them cut close enough to the hinge without then sitting down. And on some white oak and especially hickory anything more then 1/2" of hinge seems like too much. I will have to dig up some pictures of what I'm talking about.
Thank you, Ok at least I know where you are at now. This is good stuff. I am open minded



When you say... "over 1/2" seems like too much" You must mean fiber pull?
I have never cut either species. I am at 99.9% you don't mean b chair?


Maple and cottonwood are the biggest hardwoods i have cut.
It's rare that I ever cut hardwood for salvage. When I did It was just part of a big picture so it is salvage only,as it was property development. No bean counters. They are just happy to have you as long as you can make stumps and make stumps I do.

If I start a job and hoe operators have pulled out smaller trees ahead of me and layed them out in my path then I deal with it....all of it, The shaken dirt and rocks all over. The random lay out, the blisters on 'me' fingers...dam it! . I go against the lean if that's what it takes I will set triggers using a back lean drop snap. If I need to do a 10 tree push, I will.


We are in two different worlds.
"Nessessity is the Mother of invention"
This is why we know different things.

You were speaking of tree weight compressing with holding wood. (Sitting down)
I think it must have a lot to do with the water content and fibers of certain hardwoods. Some of the oak runs 55 to 65 lb range per sq ft going on memory . Cedar is at 27-30lb.
Water is about 70 lb.


This one is your world, not mine.
 
Thank you, Ok at least I know where you are at now. This is good stuff. I am open minded



When you say... "over 1/2" seems like too much" You must mean fiber pull?
I have never cut either species. I am at 99.9% you don't mean b chair?


Maple and cottonwood are the biggest hardwoods i have cut.
It's rare that I ever cut hardwood for salvage. When I did It was just part of a big picture so it is salvage only,as it was property development. No bean counters. They are just happy to have you as long as you can make stumps and make stumps I do.

If I start a job and hoe operators have pulled out smaller trees ahead of me and layed them out in my path then I deal with it....all of it, The shaken dirt and rocks all over. The random lay out, the blisters on 'me' fingers...dam it! . I go against the lean if that's what it takes I will set triggers using a back lean drop snap. If I need to do a 10 tree push, I will.


We are in two different worlds.
"Nessessity is the Mother of invention"
This is why we know different things.

You were speaking of tree weight compressing with holding wood. (Sitting down)
I think it must have a lot to do with the water content and fibers of certain hardwoods. Some of the oak runs 55 to 65 lb range per sq ft going on memory . Cedar is at 27-30lb.
Water is about 70 lb.


This one is your world, not mine.
By 1/2" of hinge seems too much I do mean barber chair. I've seen hickories barber chair with less then 1/2" of full hinge wood left . By full hinge i mean nothing taken out of it, a 1/2" strip of wood left from one corner of the face to the other. It's astounding to see. It really is. You say out loud, you've got to be ****ing kidding me there was almost no wood left to cut, but there it is blown wide open and now you have to deal with cutting it down because hickory will almost never break off when they chair.
 
Here's what I mean by hard leaners. This is a shagbark hickory and will chair like lightning. I've cut entire jobs of this stuff more usually in white oak tho with huge heavy tops. It's a pain on the stump but the footage really adds up because they've grown a lot longer(vs taller) then you'd think.
IMG_20180914_115656619_HDR.jpg


IMG_20180914_115920592_HDR.jpg
 
for hardwoods here, wee have Maple, Alder and Cotton weeds, the cotton weeds are no stronger then cedar or balsam fir but brittle and unpredictable at best, the maple is tough stuff, and the alder will sit down on the hold wood if you try any fancy strap cut with too little hold wood. Few miles south Gerry Oaks are native though rather small.

Also please note, the Doug Fir is just about on par with the maple for hardness, depending on age and or season, winter maples are tough as nails, but spring and fall they cut like butter Fir is easy when young, but hard as coffin nails when they get over about 60 yrs old
 
I need pictures to follow some of this
What do you need pictures of? Ash is one of the top three chair prone trees that I deal with. That said if the crotch hits just right on many hardwoods you can split them all the way to butt . If your ash above didn't split ground up then it split back the other way. Also internal cracks can cause them to bust wide open. It looks like you had more then one crack in that tree before you got to it.
 

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